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Re: compresser lock not working
First is the compressor very hot if yes may be seized if no the starting relay maybe defective yes by installing a 3in one relay you have trhee wire a red a black a nd a white look on the package when you get it you will see 3 pins showing where to conect the wires the red is run the black is start and the white is common then the two othe wires are your power lines that should work i use theese all the time they cost me aprox 15.00 dollars get the one 1/4 to 1/3 hp thanks from gilles
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White to red should read 12Vdc. Since you read the correct voltage and used white as the reference, you have your neutral. This can only mean that the manufacturer has shipped out a bad new part. Re-order and send the other back for exchange or or order it here.
First I would probably use a RCO 810 on that machine. Also there is a diagram on the back of the package the shows you where to put the common, start, and run lead on the compressor, if it is a embraco compressor invert the diagram to match the stud coming off compresser. Maytag RF generally uses a blue wire for the line voltage and white as neutral, disgrad the wires going to the capcitor which should leave you with two wires left use the wire caps to wire those to the 2 black wire for your RCO
You did not include a model number so this is a generic response that hopefully is of some assistance. The clicking noise your hearing is the compressor cycling trying to start.
Reasons it may do this:
1. Brief power outtage of less than 5 minutes. (Unplug and wait 30 minutes if so)
2. Compressor not starting at all (causes)
a. PTC Relay failure
b. Run capacitor failure
c. Locked compressor rotor (I.e failed compressor)
d. Heated terminals or wiring problems near the compressor
A technician would do the following
1. Read terminals R & S to terminal C on the compressor (winding continuity checks)
2. Read terminals R and S to the case of the compressor (checks for internal compressor short)
3. If the above tests pass he or she would replace the PTC relay, Kilxon thermal overload & the run capacitor. If the compressor started repairs would be complete at this time. If not see step 4.
4. Perform and amperage check comparing the Locked Rotor Amperage (LRA_ amperage on the compressor label to the actual amperage reading. If it fails this test the compressor has to be replaced.
These are the basic steps for an AC voltage compressor. Should your unit have a DC compressor the steps are slightly different.
The repairman should have told you there are several things that can cause this. However.. the troubleshooting process is this for an in home tech:
Swap out PTC relay & the KliXon thermal overload (mated together on the compressor)
Check the run capacitor. Test compressor resistance while PTC and thermal overload are removed. Tech will read terminal R to terminal C and terminal S to terminal C (winding checks). Then the tech will read R, S and C to compressor case looking for a ground (none allowed)
After that comes the dynamic test..... it should run if the compressor is ok.
IF it does not run at this point the tech will start checking temp controls and do power readings to the compressor. That is pretty much the basic troubleshooting process.... However.... IF the compressor just attempts to start but never starts.. the tech will do a LOCKED ROTOR amperage check. If the rotor is LOCKED... your looking at a compressor change that can run $375.00 and up with the cost of the service call, labor, coolant and lubricant.
The repairman was correct in saying that the PTC relay is a common problem. He just did not tell you the whole story.
At least now you know what to expect.
Thanks for choosing FixYa,
Seems your compressor is out of service. You can check the current draw ( by using AC Ampere meter). You can compare the reading with manual book. If the reading is far below, it tell you your compressor is malfunction ( died) and need replacement.
The control board either isn't sending the voltage to the compressor, or the compressor itself isn't working. Try unplugging the unit for 10 minutes or so to see if the control board will reset itself. You might also try pulling off the toe kick at the bottom of the unit to see if there is a diagnostic sheet to be found. This may give you some direction on how to put the machine into diagnostics through the digital display.
Lets make sure the compressor is getting power first. A voltage check is needed at the 2 wires going into the compressor. Assuming you have line voltage (usually 115VAC on domestic refrigerators) here is what to assume and try next:
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Either your compressor is broken inside or the start
components are not working properly. Ohm the compressor terminals to
ground and across to each other.
If any read anything to ground the compressor is bad.
Your readings between the compressor terminals should all be
different and you should have 1 low 1 medium and 1 high resistance reading.
Add the low and mid reading together and the sum should be
close to the highest reading. If it reads say 20% more or less then retest it a
couple of times to confirm your not slipping on the terminals.
Assuming the above checks out: Get a new Start relay (start
capacitor if so equipped) relay and overload (and capacitor if it has one) In
other words everything that is external and attached to the wires or
terminals on the compressor, and replace them on to the compressor. Then if it
starts problem solved if it still does same thing the compressor is bad (broken
mechanically inside the compressor) and you have to decide to replace
compressor or replace the refrigerating compressor be it AC or Refrigeration.
A few times I have gotten a compressor to start after leaving it off for 6 to
12 hours then retrying it. See the compressor unless left off for 6 to 12 hours
and sometimes as long as 24 hours Is tight due to linear expansion from heat.
And about 1/2 the time it is ok after new start components are installed. The
other 1/2 the compressor will be ok for a day or 2 then stop again. Most likely
from a “hard spot” in the movement of the internal parts in the compressor.
30 years of doing refrigeration and this has not changed.
Please rate me as high as you can and ask me to clarify anything you don’t
If the electronics got fried in the same place then you obviously have a fault cauing the board failure. If the compressor relay was burnt out then it would seem to suggest the compressor as a possible cause. If the board is now back to par then I would suggest checking the incoming voltage to the board and when restarting the unit first disconnect the power going down to the compressor from the board. Make sure everything else works OK first. If everything is running I would sugest checking the relay on the compressor body for any damage or burn damage on the compressor windings. If everything looks Ok then I would reconnect the compressor and try again. Personally speaking though I would really encourage you to get a professional to check the system through as you dont want to keep blowing up boards, let someone else do it and be responsible for it. Hope this is of some help.