Question about Stanley Bostitch MIIIFN Flooring Nailers

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The staples don't go in far enough

I have used this pnuematic before when I installed cherry wood in another room a few years ago. This time I can't seem to get the staples to go in far enough to fit the next board in. I have tried adjusting the psi and that does't seem to make a difference. Any solutions?

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Either the pioston backed off piston stem or the blade is broken. remove 4 bolts holding shoe to yellow body. remove magazine and shoe. remove yellow bumper inside gun. Pull piston down and inspect blade. if not broken see if piston backed off stem. if so gun must be rebuilt and part # BC347 must be replaced. visit www.bostitch.com and download schematic and where parts can be obtained.

Posted on Feb 14, 2009

  • Kevin O'Leary Feb 16, 2009

    Any luck on this repair?

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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What type of wood flooring is it, is it glue down or nail down, engineered ( like plywood) or solid? Is the subfloor wood or concrete ect.
Always follow manufactures specs as far as acclimation, type of adhesive and expansion joints.

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How easy or difficult is it to remove wall-to-wall carpeting and what are the best tools?


Ok,first off you may not need to remove the 1/4 round, being hardwood floor under the carpet, the 1/4 round was probably installed for it and the carpet was installed up to the 1/4 round baseboard.
It is fairly easy to remove carpet and pad. Take a pair of pliers and go to a corner, take a bite of carpet with the pliers and pull. It should come up if no base was installed on top. Now you just work your way around the room pulling up the carpet. once the carpet is free you can roll it up like a burrito, (each side to the middle then roll from one end. The tighter the easier to manage.) or you can fold one side in and cut it into strips 3 foot 4 foot whatever, to make it easier to carry out then roll strips up. Once carpet is out the pad is next. It will have been stapled to the wood floor around the perimeter and where 2 pieces of pad come together. You just pull the pad up, it will tear and the staples will stay in floor but just get rid of the pad, pull it and roll it and carry it out. That will leave you with a hardwood floor with a bunch of staples with pad chunks and tackstrip nailed to the floor.
A pair of pliers and a lot of patience will remove the staples and a pry bar and hammer will remove the tackstrip. A carpet knife available at any Depot for Homes is best for cutting the carpet. The brick on your floor was probably laid on top of the hardwood and wont need any trim, if you want you can trim it with 1/4 round to match the existing. Your transitions from wood to linoleum can be done in flat metal that comes in 1 inch wide or 1 1/2 inch wide gold or silver and nails down with twisted nails of the same color. You can also find wood transition strips or make them yourself, the wood transitions I think look better but cannot be made as flat, so there is a trip hazard issue. Any gloves will work. I have been installing floors for 37 years and I personally dont wear gloves when tearing out carpet and pad.

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Are the slide outs on a montana rv made to slide out futher than normal for replacing the main floor under it?


In some cases they will slide out far enough to repair the floor but you need to be extremely careful to prevent damage and personal injury. *I am not responsible for any damage or injury caused during repairs based on this free advice* First, you will need to remove the inside fascia, then un-staple the rubber seal all the way around and then remove the inside frame that the fascia screwed to so that the slide will go out of the opening. Next you will need to start opening the slide. Right before it clears the opening you will need to go underneath and insert blocks of wood between the floor of the slide and the frame of the slide rack and pinion to keep the slide lifted in the proper location for re-installation. now move the slide out just far enough to clear the side wall of the unit. Once it is clear of the side wall place a few saw horses and or jack stands under the outside edge of the slide to add more support. Now that you are clear you can begin the process of replacing the damaged floor. Start by pulling the carpet/linoleum back. The flooring will only be stapled down so once you remove the staples it should peel back pretty easily. Once you get to a wall you will have to cut along the edge of the wall for the flooring to release (since the flooring was installed first then the walls this will be necessary). When you are ready to reinstall you will have to use some 1/4 round trim to resecure. Once the flooring is peeled back determine how much floor will need to be replaced and mark your cut points and set your saw blade cut depth to 3/4" (you do not want to cut too deep) and make your cuts. Remove the damaged floor. Now cut some scab blocks to insert along the cut edges to where half of the block surface in under the existing floor and the other half will be under the new floor. Cut a new piece of decking and install. To install the blocks and the new deck I use wood glue and screws. If you are using linoleum flooring you may need to fill the crack and sand the floor so that the seam does not show over time. Reverse the process for installing the slide out. Good luck!

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1 Answer

Flooring


Random-length tongue & groove planks? First step - plan it VERY carefully. Get a floor staper or floor nailer - buy one from Harbor Freight instead of renting one. You\'ll need an air compressor capable of powering the flooring nailer; I find that a 5-gallon 2HP compressor is just about enough.



Also get a miter saw before you start, and a drill motor, and a claw hammer and a "Flooring installation kit" from Harbor Freight (they\'re handy), and it\'s worth doing to get a flooring jack from the same place. You\'ll need a triangular layout square or adjustable square and several pencils.



Be prepared for some heavy carrying. Boxes of flooring are heavy, especially at the end of a long day.



Figure out how many square feet to lay, and add 10% to 20% for waste, depending upon how careful you figure you are. I just laid 2400 square feet of it with only about 1% waste, but I\'m VERY careful.



Buy your flooring and stack the boxes inside the room where you\'ll be laying it down. Leave it there, untouched, for no less than three weeks to acclimate to the humidity in that room - longer is better. You can\'t wait too long.



Also buy at least one roll of red rosin-impregnated flooring paper and get hold of a stapler for it. You\'ll also need plenty of flooring staples/nails.



Plan which orientation the flooring will be laid - it usually runs along the longest walls. Plan which side of the room to start on. Find everything you\'ll need to fit around and figure out how to fit the flooring around those obstructions. Heating pipes, ducts, chimney, etc. Places where one piece will wrap partway around an obstruction will be challenging because you\'ll need to make one or two crosscuts and a short rip between them - I prefer to use a bandsaw for the short rip, but you CAN use a handheld sabre saw.



Prepare the underlayment. Get it VERY CLEAN. Sweep often while you work. OFTEN. Don\'t allow any dirt or sawdust or anything under the flooring.



Staple a strip of rosin paper to the floor along the starting wall. It should reach all the way from one end to the other, and it should have NO WRINKLES. If you tear it (it does tear easily), staple both sides of the tear down flat. Sweep again.



Beginning at the starting wall, lay out enough planks to reach all the way along the room to the other end, leaving enough to cut off - you\'ll need the cut-off scrap to start the next course, so select that last piece with a length such that the cut-off scrap\'s end will not coincide with any joint in the first course; the joints in each course should not be nearer than about 6" from the joints in the preceding course - always always remember that, and select planks religiously with that in mind.



Drill a line of holes along the groove edge of the first course of planks. The holes should barely be big enough to fit a #6 finishing nail; I think a 5/64" drill bit is about the right size. The holes should be about 2" from each end of each plank, and about every 6" along the length of the plank. The holes should be near to the groove edge, about 1/2" from the edge, and angled toward the wall at the bottom - when you drive those nails in, you don\'t want your hammer to hit the wall.



Also drill a matching set of holes along the tongue edge, but these holes will be different. This time, start the hole on top of the TONGUE, where it meets the plank, and angle the drill slightly so the drill bit exits the bottom of the PLANK, not the bottom of the groove. If you just drill through the groove, you\'ll never get the next plank to fit over the tongue.



Now very very carefully lay out the planks for that first course. If this one course isn\'t absolutely straight, the rest of the floor will just get worse from there. Keep the groove edge of the first course 5/8" to 3/4" away from the wall along its full length - you may need to replace existing baseboard to do that. Later, you\'ll hide the gap when you put the baseboard back down.



When you\'re SURE that the first course is laid out straight, drive nails into the groove edge holes to hold it there. Drive them down flush with the hammer, then sink them slightly with a nail set (the right size for #6 nails). When you\'re finished, go back and nail down the tongue edge, too, one nail per drilled hole. Also set those nails with your nail set.



Carefully cut that last plank so that its end is 5/8" to 3/4" from the far wall. Carry the cutoff back to the starting point.



Put away your drill & nails & nailset for a while - you won\'t need them again until you get to the opposite wall (or have an obstruction to deal with). From here for the rest of the floor, you\'ll need the flooring stapler/nailer.



Starting with your cutoff, now select the second coarse of planks. You should be selecting planks from several boxes at the same time; the finish may be slightly different from box to box, and it\'s better to have the differences show up randomly than to have them show up in patches.



Select each plank so that its end doesn\'t coincide with the joints in the first course. Remember, 6" is the closest they should be. Also remember the last plank - cut it again so its cutoff end won\'t coincide with the first (cutoff) plank in this second course - it\'ll be used to start the third course.



When you have your planks selected, this time there\'s no need to drill anything - you\'ll use the flooring stapler/nailer. Connect it to the compressor and carry it and its special mallet to your starting point.



Before you staple/nail, the second course of planks needs to be driven into place against the first course. The plastic block from your "flooring installation kit" is perfect for the task. The groove from each course should completely cover the tongue from the previous course, and all joints should be driven VERY TIGHT before stapling/nailing. Some planks will be slightly curved - you can usually start one end, then drive the other end into place (you may need the flooring jack to help with this) before stapling/nailing it the rest of the way.



If you need to use the flooring jack in the middle of the floor, just nail a short piece of 2x4 to the floor and jack against it. Use scaffold (two heads) nails, so it\'ll be easy to remove.



Drive staples/nails with the flooring stapler/nailer about every 6" along the tongue edge of this course. The tool is built to hook over the tongue edge and drive the staples/nails at an angle so the fasteners won\'t interfere with the fit of the next course of planks. One staple/nail should be about 2" from each end of each plank, 6" (roughly) between staples/nails. Yes, it\'s a LOT of staples/nails when you add them all up - 2000, 3000 per room.



Once in a while a staple/nail won\'t drive correctly. You\'ll need to either break it off or pull it out before driving another. You\'ll need to use your imagination - there are lots of approaches. Dig it out with a screwdriver, grab it with diagonal wire cutters, pull it with fencing pliers, use electrician\'s pliers and a pry bar. Do whatever it takes. Some will simply break off - the steel they use to make \'em gets pretty brittle when you bend it back & forth a couple of times. While you\'re worrying one out, use a putty knife to protect the flooring from your tools.



When you\'ve laid enough courses to get within one plank\'s width from the far edge of your red rosin paper, stop and staple down another course of paper, overlapping the first course by about 4". Do this every time you "run out of paper". The paper will eventually cover the whole floor, under your new plank floor.



Just about the time you staple down that second strip of rosin paper, gather up empty flooring boxes and start putting your tools on them, including the air compressor. When you\'re about halfway across the room, you\'ll move all your tools (including the air compressor) up onto the new flooring, and the cardboard boxes will help protect the nice new floor from damage from your tools.



Continue to work across the room - paper and flooring - until you get so close to the far wall that you\'re in danger of bumping the wall with the flooring stapler/nailer\'s mallet. It WILL leave an AWFUL black mark in the wall. Put an ordinary sock over its rubber pull to help prevent the marks. The last course you can staple/nail with that tool will be the course where you have to really choke up on the mallet to get it into the narrow space between the tool & the wall. Finish that course and put the tool away, turn off the compressor, get them out of the room.



The next course of flooring will need to be drilled & hand-nailed again, this time ONLY along the tongue edge, but otherwise exactly as you drilled the tongue edge of the first course.



The last course will need to be ripped to width (a borrowed or rented table saw is the ideal tool for this purpose) so that it ends up 5/8" to 3/4" from the wall. It\'ll need to be face-nailed along the wall edge - exactly the way you drilled the groove side on the first course, but this time there\'s no groove - only the freshly ripped edge of the plank.

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2. The stapler drive spring may have ghotten weak

3. You may not be holding the stapler nose firmly against the wood while stapling

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