Water leaking onto ice and outside panel on Hoshizaki KM-500MAE
I've found that water is leaking from my KM-500MAE. Part of this water is dripping onto the ice cubes that are dropped into the collection area inside the machine which is making them melt. It is also dripping onto the cover that flips open ot access where the ice is dropped. The machine was full of ice this morning and it has all melted since the water was dripping onto the ice.
Here is a picture of where some water has leaked out. This is right above the cover that opens up to access the ice.
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Re: Water leaking onto ice and outside panel on Hoshizaki...
Remove the cover where the persons finger is and check to make sure that it is not covered with ice. Sounds like your machine iced oup and you will need to clean the coils and possibly replace the thermostat
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time the cycle. if it is only running about 5 minutes and going into harvest, look for sump loosing water. Look at where the unit drains (like a floor drain) while the unit is running to see how much, if any water is draining. does not take much to make an early harvest. also, sump may not be filling up completely but with just enough water to satisfy the float.
If you are asking about the valve to the left of the water pump, it is used to dump water when the unit pumps the water out of the sump to keep sediment out. If it is bad, the unit will have short freeze cycles as the the valve is leaking water out causing the float to drop prematurely and causing small cubes and short freeze cycles.
excessive freeze cycle=60 minutes. In almost every case, it's the water valve (sometimes called the fill valve) is leaking water continually into the sump. Turn machine off and see if you can still hear water running into the unit. If so, it the valve leaking. Just replace it. http://www.hoshizakiamerica.com/manuals/KM-500M_E_serv.pdf
Go to this site and download you copy of the service manual. It has lots of good stuff.. Let me know if I can be of any further help.
If it overfills and drips, look for an
adjustment behind the plastic endcover with a +/- on it. - is less water. If it continuously drips, replace the water
inlet valve on the back where the house water supply comes in.
Watch it when it fills with water. The fill tube could also be stopped up with ice. The water inlet valve on the back of unit opens when the ice
maker needs water. If the valve doesn't seal good because of sediment or wear
it will continue to drip and when the water reaches the ice maker supply tube
it will freeze.You can take the water
line off the valve and watch to see if it drips.
It'll cost around $65.00 to take care of this problem. The problem is the water inlet valve. The part number is 4389177 and can be picked up at your local appliance parts retailer or you can get one online maybe for a better price (just plug the part number into your favorite search engine).
Here's what's happening... The valve I mentioned is actually a "dual coil" unit. One coil supplies the cold water, the other feeds the ice maker. These "coils" are independant of each other, so one coil can fail and the other can keep on truckin', no problem. But what you have is an Ice Maker coil/valve that is weak and it's allowing water to bypass.
Basically the IM valve isn't closing shut completely. Imagine a dripping faucet... that's what it's like except you can't hear the drops, you can only see the results. Imagine drop by drop rising up that tube behind the fridge and into the IM. One drop at a time. These drops of water go into the freezer compartment through the IM fill tube. Now when these little ***** drops slide down the fill tube inside the freezer compartment they flash freeze before they reach the IM. One drop after another... drip drop drip drop. All these little droplets of water eventually form a glacier inside the fill tube.
OK, now we're at the point of glatiation. The fill tube (just behind the ice maker) has completely frozen solid. Now... when the IM "calls" for water to refill itself, the (failed) valve opens up and lets full pressure through. But where is this water/pressure going to go? The pressure builds inside the 1/4" water line until it can't handle it any more, the pressure looks for the path of least resistance. That path is the connection that you found loose. It blew out because the fill tube (into the freezer) is blocked with ice and the reason it's blocked is because the valve isn't shutting off completely.
That's alot of words to say this... it's an easy fix. Get the valve (above). Pull the fridge out. Unplug it. Turn the water off at the wall. Remove the water line going into the valve and set aside. Remove the cardboard panel. Remove the 2 screws holding the valve to the fridge. Pull the valve out. Note the electrical and tubing connections carefully. Get your new valve out and install the electrical and tubing just like the old one. Then rebuild, turn on the water and look for any leaks (use a flashlight and take a minute or two here... finding a leak now will save you alot of misery later). Replace the cardboard and plug it back in.
There ya go! Your first major appliance repair job done successfully? Priceless.
The thickness probe should be approximatly 1/4 inch off of the evaporator.Sounds like you might have loose grids on the evaporator.turn the unit off and remove the curtain.use a flash light and inspect the grids.There should not be space in between the joints,if there is the ice will freeze behind the grids and not properly release when in harvest. Also gently pull at the grids,if they pull towards you or wiggle then they are separating. I have removed one of the grids and had the unit continue to run for sometime until the evaporator could be replaced.The plating being spotty causes release issues as well.Finally check the level of the machine,front to back and side to side.Not being level will also cause release problems
Sounds like a blocked defrost drain. By "American" I presume you mean side-by-side.
I had a similar problem with a freezer-on-top style Samsung. The solution to that was to defrost the freezer, remove the false backing plate in the freezer (required removal of the ice cube tray. the panel just pops out with a bit of pulling). The drain hole beneath the freezer coils was blocked with ice. This drain passes down into the fridge and then out the back of the fridge into the evaporation pan next to the motor. There is a collector pan under the freezer coils, this and the drain hole were filled with ice. When the freezer goes into its self-defrost cycle the water collects here and then overflows into the fridge.
I removed the ice with hot water/vinegar mixture (so it doesn't re-freeze immediately) and simultaneosuly used a bit of chiselling with a screwdriver to clear the drain plug. I did this from inside the fridge working up the drain hole into the freezer. The whole job took about an hour.