Saw is like new. Only 2 tanks off gas threw it. Had carb. cleaned, still the same. Know dealer says I need a new carb. abd they cant find my warrenty. $100 for a new one, on a already over priced saw. The old Stihl were great saws. My dad has a 28, no trouble in 18+ years. Think the new ones are ****!
An expert who has achieved level 2 by getting 100 points
An expert that got 10 achievements.
An expert that got 5 achievements.
An expert whose answer got voted for 100 times.
Re: Stihl MS 260 Pro wont run wide open or idle.
Hi brandon First change the sparkplug with the same heat range,Check and clean the gas filter with compressed air.Remove the carb and very carefully disassembly entirely.Check the gaskets and the diafragms.At the fuel pump side there is a fine screen(clean it).Check the needle,the spring and lever.Unlock the screws L and H(note how many turns are they).Put the corp of the carb in a special clean solution for 12 hours and then clean it with compressed air(something is clogged there).Put all back together and try to start the engine. regards savumihai71
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
Aug 14, 2011 - 10 posts - 7 authors
I have a Stihl MS 180C that i cannot get to run. I used it all last year and went to use it a few months ago and it didnt seem ... it is not under warranty and i have pulled and pulled with choke on and throttle wide open and still wont start. ... Depending on the carb, some times you can just go for broke and get a ...
Stihl ms 180 running rich
Jun 5, 2015 Echo cs-370, they actually work
Oct 12, 2010 More results from www.arboristsite.com
I have found that replacing the carb. with a new one . Usually between 27.00 to 38.00 dollars usually saves a lot of time over installing a kit. problem is usually due to a jet problem or the ethanol in the gas has removed the coating on a plug inside the carb. which requires carb. replacement
Your dealer is right. Gas is not a carbs best friend. every time you fuel dirt gets in the fuel tank from the air. This eventually blocks air and fuel passages and check valves inside the carb. That is the reason. Carbs wear out like anything else. Check the price of a carb compared to a kit. Some Stihl carbs are reasonable.
With the filter removed check the choke valve. Make sure its connected to the linkage and working properly not opening and closing randomly. Now with these possible problems eliminated I would adjust the carburetor which is relative simple and the logical next step.
Locate the high and low carburetor adjustment screws. Some newer models may not have these adjusters. If there are none move on to cleaning the carburetor.
They should be on the left hand side near the handle. Look for 2 small holes. Look for an "H" and a "L" near the holes. Use a flashlight to see if the adjuster screws are there and determine the shape of the tool you will need to turn these. Older models may just require a long enough smaller flat head screwdriver.
You may have to buy a special tool made specially for Stihl saws (fairly cheap). Home Depot, Lowes or a Stihl dealer should sell these. Start saw. Find the "H" or high adjuster screw. Hold the saw on the ground firmly with one hand, insert the tool with other hand until it feels like its properly seated, squeeze the throttle and hold wide open (always hold the throttle wide open while adjusting the high RPM setting) then adjust the screw counterclockwise or clockwise until the saw reaches maximum RPM and runs smoothest with the least vibration.
Normally turning counterclockwise will result in higher RPM. Adjust it higher until it misfires, runs rough or burns to rich (too much fuel reduced RPM-bogging down). Then back it down slowly until the RPM begins to drop (restricting fuel flow). Now you know the spot you want is between those points. Open the adjuster slowly until it maxes out and runs smooth. It will sing and you have found the sweet spot.
You can adjust the "L" or low idle adjuster by releasing the throttle and adjust to the desired idle RPM (low as possible without stalling and smooth running). Do the same as the high RPM adjustment. Open the screw until the RPM is too high for idle or runs rough. Now back it down until it runs rough or stalls. Slowly open the adjuster until it idles smoothest at a reasonably low RPM. Rev it up then let it return to idle for a few seconds several times. If it does not level out and run smooth or almost stalls turn it slightly up and retest. Test it out in real conditions under a heavy load by cutting something big. If you are satisfied with the performance youre good.
If this does not solve the problem and/or there are no adjusters present then a dirty carburetor is likely the issue. Tanks gather sand and other trash that end up in the carburetor. Check the tank and if theres sand or trash empty it and rinse it out first. Remove the body/cover to get to the carburetor and carefully remove the linkage, fuel lines etc. Study the way each part is connected (take pictures or find the online manual if you have to) and what order they are removed as you will have to reassemble later. This can be tricky and tedious but dont rush or you will regret it. Careful dont break the plastic components. Remove the carb.
Take the carburetor apart carefully on a towel or large rag to prevent losing anything (small parts & springs). A diagram will be useful to know where small parts are located to avoid losing something that could fall or spring out. Carefully remove all possible gaskets and rubber seals without damaging them. If they are dried out or in rough shape you will want to replace them. No good to take this all apart and put back in damaged seals that may leak only to have to tear it all down again because its not running right and you are not sure of the cause (seals leaking or dirty carb). If you are lucky they may be standard sizes and easily replaced but you may have to find a Stihl dealer then hope they have in stock.
If rubber seals look OK apply a little oil (any kind) to condition them and help prevent pinching/tearing during reassembly. Use automobile type carburetor spray cleaner (or lacquer thinner, kerosine, WD40 etc) to clean inside and out. Spray through all of the holes and orifices. Dont get this in your eyes like I sometimes do. Good to use a torch tip cleaner or small wire/paper clip to unblock trash if theres sand or gunk present.
Use an air compressor and blower nozzle to blow through all the holes. Repeat the soaking and blowing process 2 or 3 times until your satisfied the holes are clean. Dont just go through the motions to clean it since its quite a bit of work to get the carb out usually and you want to be sure you have eliminated the possibility of a dirty carb. After its all back together adjust the "H" and "L" carburetor settings again.
They will score one side of the piston because of the heat.Its always on the exuast side.It could be the carb is adjusted to lean that makes it run hot.The muffler might need a good cleaning too?If it gets plugged up it will run hot too?It sounds like you gas and oil are mixed right.Thats about the only thing that will do it besides straight gas run in it.Could be the shop tec doesen't know how to adjust the carb?I would ask the to make sure its adjusted right.And not to lean.If its any kind of shop someone there should know how to do it right.When you get it back try running it wide open it should do whats called 4 stroke when not cutting wood then smoothe out while cutting.If you hold it about wide open and it runs fine.Its not right.If it does you need to open the high side of the carb a little.Maby a 1/4 turn at most.Just untill its getting to much gas to run smoothe.I hope they fix it right this time.Thats a very nice saw!
It is running in a lean condition. Continued operation like that can cause piston and cylinder failure.
I'd take it in for repair estimate ($10) at the local chainsaw seller/mechanic. Explain the problem you are having, Probably a leaking fuel line. I'd expect a repair and tune up about $40-60. Your saw will perform better and your arm will thank you. If tuned ask what fuel/oil ratio they used (should be 50:1) and affix a label to your fuel tank. HTH
Couple of things I would check first. Place a funnel in a can with a paper napkin covering bottom of funnel. Pour the gas from the saw into the funnel. If there is a lot of trash in there, remove the fuel line from tank. Clean the filter with carb. cleaner. Then clean the tank with carb. cleaner. If you still have problem. Replace the Air inlet tube, (clear tube with screw type device close to carb).