I was cutting a piece of 1 1/2"x 6"wood plank with a Craftsman10" table saw.The board kicked back slightly and the blade stopped. I turned the saw off and back on and the saw motor hums bud the blade is froze. Where do I start?
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Re: blade does not turn
Disconnect the electric from the saw. Remove the throat blade cover. Bring the blade all the way up. Look for wood caught between the blade and anything else. Finding none,remove blade. Try motor w/o blade. If it runs now,w/o the blade then the motor
is likely ok . Reinstall blade. Now if it stil stalls, Replace motor.
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Lots of saws have left hand threads on the nut that holds the blade in place. It is designed so that if the saw starts up and the nut isn't snug, the nut and the blade slipping on the turning arbor would tend to tighten the nut as they slip against the force of the spinning arbor.
1. Unplug the saw.
2. Hold on to the blade tightly with one hand.
3. Put the wrench on the arbor nut and turn it in the direction you would turn it as if the wrench were turning the blade to cut wood.
If you've previously overtightened the blade, jamb a piece of wood against the teeth and the saw table top and then follow step 3.
If the motor is on the left side of the blade as you face the saw, then it's a standard right hand nut.
If the motor is on the right side of the blade as you face the saw, then its a left handed nut.
The cut you are describing is challenging, but possible on a 20" scroll saw. First the blade--- you call this a hollow plank. If this is something like a hollow-core door, then the 1.5" thickness will be no problem. If you have to cut through a solid 1.5" (as you would at the edge) then you have a slow go of it unless you can find a pretty coarse pitch blade (big teeth). Second, making the turn----- assuming you are making this cut somewhere near the center of the 5' lenghth, then you won't be able to simply make a 90 degree turn after you cut the initial 5 inches. But you can make an approximately 60 degree turn, then stop the saw, leave the workpiece in place with the blade still in the cut, and reset the blade to cut sideways (so that the teeth of the blade are facing to your left or right rather than pointing toward you.) Before you make this blade turn, however, you should make the other 5 inch cut, so that you don't have to make the blade turn twice. Alternatively, if the 5 x 1.5 piece you are removing is just scrap, then you can make your two 5 inch cuts just converge to a point at the middle of the 1.5 inch line so that you can remove most of the scrap without moving the blade. Then you can reset the blade more easily with the workpiece removed from the saw.
I hope you found this helpful.----
Oh, one more thing! The 1.5 inch part of the cut would be a lot easier simply by using a coping saw - they are about $15. Actually, you could do the whole cut with a coping saw.
you should be able to order one from sears. another place to look is ebay. the round plastic thing is to mark with pencil the cut of the blade. put in your sliding miter Gage set at 90 deg. put a piece of wood on it, push forward and cut the wood then slide back and mark the wood position on the plastic. that's the point where your blade cuts
What I would check for and follow closely, is UNPLUG tool turn blade by hand to make sure it turns freely, there could be a piece of offcut wood jamming the blade. then turn it on its back or however you can to see about cleaning with compressed air, check the cord condition for breaks if all the above checks out and sounds like you have tried different power sources you have an electrical short and troubleshooting this is involved.
Possibly the problem is the wood itself. If it is burning both sides of the kerf then it is probably that your kiln dried wood is picking up moisture on the outside from the environment which causes it to bow inwards as it passes the saw. I have even had this problem with plywood. Just keeping timber in an unheated workshop for a while can cause the problem but after a few months it should equalize and the problem disappear at about 15% moisture content. (kiln dried timber should be nearer 10%) Cut part way along a plank and then mesure the kerf at the end of the plank and at the front of the cut. if it is significantly narrower at the plank end then that is your problem. These hard woods you mention are always a problem to cut on domestic saws at usually a maximum of 2000 watts . I use a 4500 watt motor in my saw and it will still complain at dry oak, ash and maple etc. especially if they are moving a bit as I cut them. Before I retired I had a panel saw half as powerful again as that and still those hard woods could cause trouble.
I assume that your alignment procedure is about adjusting your miter gage. But you should first verify if the blade is parallel to the miter slot (the slot the miter gage slides in). This is adjustable underneath the saw, and sometimes comes crooked from the factory or comes loose later on. To check if the blade is parallel to the miter slot you can do this.....1. unplug the saw. 2. Raise the blade as far as it will go. 3. Clamp a piece of wood to your miter gage so that it just touches the blade as close to the front of the saw as possible. 4. Use a marker and mark that spot on the blade. 5. Now slide the miter toward the back of the saw, and rotate the blade by hand so that your piece of wood hits the same spot as where you checked in the front. You can see a large misalignment by eye. But you can get a little precise by using a piece of paper between the wood and the blade as a feeler gage. Or better yet, use a drop indicator instead of the piece of wood and you can measure the difference. If this isn't as close to parallel as you are able to measure it, you need to turn the saw over and find the bolts that attach the whole assembly under there to the table top. Once you have this in alignment, you should be able to set your miter to be square against any good square. If you don't have a high quality square, you can go to a tool store (Sears or whoever) with your miter gage in hand, and set it to be square against their most expensive square. If the square is square, and the blade is parallel to the slot and it still won't cut square you either have a bad blade or there is too much play in the saw's arbor. Try to wiggle the blade side-to-side - any wiggle at all is too much.
Ive seen this before. The sawblade that comes with the unit isnt very good. Upgrade to a good carbide blade from craftsman or even a dewalt/vermont american. Also slow your cut down an let the saw do the cutting. Hope this helps
Undid the RH fence-bolt in the table behind the fence and tapped the end of the fence forward to make it perpendicular to the blade. Tighten bolt. When you look down on the two fence bolt heads, one is easy to rotate with a socket wrench, the LH bolt head would be very, very difficult to move. Undo the RH bolt to swing the fence angle WRT the blade.