Question about Cuisinart Supreme Grind DBM-8 Electric Burr Grinder

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Coffee grinder not working

Cuisinart Supreme Grind DBM-8 Just stopped running for no apparent reason, it is less than a month old.

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  • craignixon Feb 22, 2009

    Grinder doesn't start at all. Nothing. Can't figure out how to take it apart

  • djvinyl26 Mar 14, 2009

    The Grinder was grinding with no problems what so ever. The next time I came to use it it just wouldn't switch on at all. Even cleaning it made no difference. I think its probably so powerful that it burns itself out unless used in short 20 second blips at a time.

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My burr grinder also stops if the ground spout (where the coffee shoots out) is clogged. I use my grinder for an espresso machine so i always have the setting on the finest and so with the oils and the fine grind it clogs this spout pretty often. I"d check yours out too (ie remove the coffee ground bin and you can see the spout. If it is clogged uplug the machine and take a tooth pick and un clogg it. Don't jam the tooth pick in there to deep you don't want it to get shuved into the grinder wheels.

Posted on Feb 07, 2010

  • Bob Ravet Mar 06, 2011

    That was the problem...too bad I didn't read your post before I took things apart :) Thanks fixya for this great service. I use it all the time for a multitude of home repair jobs!!!

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Suh Dal just fixed my grinder. Thank you so much. Just remove the plastic bin and clean the spout. I used a chopstick instead of a toothpick and it also worked.

Posted on Jun 14, 2010

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It took me longer than it should have to figure this out. I blame the lack of coffee. There are TWO problematic safety switches on this model which are wired in series. The first ensures that the ground coffee bin is in place. The second ensures that the whole bean hopper is screwed in properly. I suspect lawyers were involved here.

Check both switches carefully. If both switches appear to mechanically engage but the grinder fails to start the switches may be faulty or the fuse blown. Start by removing the four rubber feet and the screws beneath. Pull off the bottom plate. Slide the circuit board out of the unit and check the small glass fuse soldered to the board with a multimeter. With both bins firmly in place check for continuity between the small gauge red and black wires. If the circuit is open one of the switches is faulty. To bypass simply cut the small gauge red and black wires a couple inches from the circuit board and connect them together.

Enjoy a well deserved cup of coffee.

Posted on Jun 14, 2014

  • 3 more comments 
  • Pete Nixon
    Pete Nixon Jun 23, 2014

    You don't happen to have a photo of the fuse and wires you are referring to, do you? I've got mine apart but don't see a glass fuse. Also, are the red and black wires on opposite ends of the series circuit including the two safety switches and the fuse?

  • Sally-Anne Sadler
    Sally-Anne Sadler Feb 19, 2015

    Thank you so much. I cleaned it. nothing. cleaned it again, after taking it apart and getting a brush into it, and viola!

  • Bill Bigler
    Bill Bigler Dec 02, 2015

    The red and black wires you are referring to are coming from SW1 and SW2 on the pcb and going into the top of the case to what I assume is the other safety switch? I have not separated the upper and lower housing due to not having a long enough screwdriver.

  • Jim Missenda
    Jim Missenda Dec 26, 2015

    The red wire comes off of SW1 (ground receptacle safety switch running to the top of the case. There are (3) black wires: 1 is marked K1, 1 is marked N MO2, and 1 is unmarked. I do not see SW1 or SW2 markings on the PCB or, the fuse mentioned in the original post.

  • Tony Davies
    Tony Davies Jan 19, 2017

    No fuse on mine but the safety switch that activates the power when a reservoir for ground coffee is in place was to blame. I bypassed the switch effectively connecting the two red wires that entered and leave the switch. Now it works. I can't think of a safety reason for this- If the reservoir for ground is not in place you can't get to the blades - you just get ground coffee falling out.

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Thank you Suh Dal! I just fixed my grinder by following your way. I am glad I check this site when I saw there were 8 answers answers already. So the numbers count.

Posted on Dec 12, 2015

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I had a broken tab on the finished grind reservoir (turn it upside down--the tab juts perpendicularly from the curved side). This presses against a safety switch inside the machine. If the reservoir is not pushed completely in, then no grinding can occur. I removed the machine bottom (4 screws each concealed by a rubber foot and a pain to remove and replace) and pressed the switch permanently closed with some cardboard, although this just might be accomplished without removing the bottom by inserting something into the slot which accepts the tab. My grinder will operate without the reservoir in place, but why would I be silly enough to start it?

Posted on Jun 03, 2013

  • astrozier
    astrozier Dec 16, 2013

    I also had the exact same problem: the broken tab on the bottom of the bin. A bit of folded paper jammed in the corresponding slot on the unit did the trick!

  • Tony Davies
    Tony Davies Jan 19, 2017

    simpler solution that mine but same problem

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Without more info, I'd say that a safety switch isn't being activated to indicate that the lid(s) is/are fully closed.

Check and make sure that you haven't broken a tab off the lid which would allow it to trip that switch, and that debris from the grinding isn't displacing a lid and preventing the grinder from starting.

Aside from that, if the grinder has died, it may have overheated if jammed.

Posted on Feb 14, 2009

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I got this grinder for $5 at a Goodwill a few years ago and it recently stopped working. For me the issue was a ton of corrosion around the start button switch. I found that, with both bins in place I could start the grind by shorting the points of the blue wire and the black wire next to it. I tried permanently shorting them together, but it needs to be a momentary contact.

I clipped the blue and black wires off of the upper switch assembly and ran them out through a small hole drilled in the top of the case, above the sliding switch. It worked by touching the two wires together momentarily, with all bins in place and the slider on anything but Off.

There's low voltage through the wires, not especially dangerous, but I ended up soldering on a spare mechanical keyboard switch which is used to start the grind. The slider doesn't work as a timer any longer, just an off switch, but I've only ever measured in as many beans as I wanted to grind, so this works for me. People will wonder why there is a keyboard key sticking out of the grinder, but to me it's a fun talking point.

Posted on Dec 02, 2016

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After seeing seven answers , I HAD TO spout off. It seems that coffee is a real need and and like any other drug, all you coffee addicts hang together.lol

Posted on Dec 03, 2015

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Mine had a different problem than the rest of these. Mine doesn't run unless you hold down the start button. It runs in sort of a pulsing action when you do hold it down. I noticed in the process of trying to fix it that it runs faster when the slider is pushed as far to the left without going all the way off. I thought I could probably fix this cause it sometimes works properly. However I could not seem to get it to work right. I can continue to use it this way while holding the start button.

Anyway, if you need to take it apart the first thing to do is to pull the four rubber feet out, which reveals four Philips screws, as said in another post. This will get you to the main circuit board and motor. If you need to get into the top section you will need a very long small to medium Philips. Their are four screws deep in the case and another one above the grinds receptacle. There are three short screws I removed that seem only to hold the grind dial on, so you may not need to remove them.

While trying to fix it I found it best to jumper the red and black wires coming from the safety switches to override having to have both the grinds bin and the bean hopper installed.

The motor has both brushes and an outer field coil. I guess it is probably a DC motor, but I wasn't sure.

I spent so much time trying to get the screws out with only a medium length screwdriver, that I was too frustrated to spend any time troubleshooting the circuit board. For now I will just use it as is. If someone has the same problem and succeeds in fixing it perhaps they will post a solution here and I will see it.

I also saw other posts where the motor wouldn't grind when beans were in the hopper. This seems similar to my problem. If you have this problem I would suggest moving the slider as far to the left without it turning off, and hold the start button through the entire grind, that is if you can get it to work.

Posted on May 24, 2015

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All of the comments about clearing the grinder out, making sure the safety switches are clear, etc. are great points. I have found 2 times that either the grinder got clogged (my fault) or it refused to turn off (no idea why). In both instances, after I did everything possible (but its me, so I did not turn any screws!), I just unplugged it and walked away. A few hours later it was fine. Maybe there is an electronic reset? who knows? But it worked twice.

Posted on Oct 01, 2012

  • MsRumsey Oct 01, 2012

    All of the comments about clearing the grinder out, making sure the safety switches are clear, etc. are great points. I have found 2 times that either the grinder got clogged (my fault) or it refused to turn off (no idea why). In both instances, after I did everything possible (but its me, so I did not turn any screws!), I just unplugged it and walked away. A few hours later it was fine. Maybe there is an electronic reset? who knows? But it worked twice.

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