Question about KitchenAid 24 in. KUDI01IL - Multiple Color Free-Standing Dishwasher

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Heating circuit and thermostat design

I am building a drying cabinet for meat products and need to install a heater at the base with a thermostat to control the temperature. Any advice on how to wire it? The cabinet will have a fan circulating the air all the time...

Thanks...

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Hi, You need a thermostat with a remote sensor that should be about the same position as the middle rack in the cabinet. Yes, have the circulating fan run constantly on a separate switch or on a rotary in the second position and the fan/heater in the third position as off, fan on, fan/heater on. I would also wire in an indicator light or two as well as some way to monitor temp/humidity so that you would have a positive indication that things were running, the idea being so that you open the cabinet as little as possible. By the way this works great for fruit with just the fan. Good Luck!

Posted on Feb 11, 2009

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SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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Favorit 84470VI


Heater, 230V./2000W.-d.32mm.
The heating element, which is encased inside a tube, is used to heat the washing water. The heating element is not activated during the drying phase. Inserted into the delivery side of the washing pump and coupled with the duct which directs water to the upper spray arm.
Built-in safety devices: Two thermostats
First thermostat: auto-reset bi-metal thermostat calibrated to 98°C and connected in series to one branch of the heating element.
Second thermostat: manual-reset fuse calibrated to 206°C and connected in series to the second branch of the heating element. If this fuse intervenes, the heating element is disconnected definitively.

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Nov 18, 2015 | AEG Dishwashers

1 Answer

My new Beko dw686 does not dry on the programmes it is meant to .... I don't know if the turbo fan is working


DO U MEAN THERE IS NO HEAT?

ELECTRIC Dryer no heat or little heat, or shuts down to fast:

Check your venting and lint basket. Check blower for lint build up and blower wheel obstruction., test by trying to turn the wheel manually by hand (should be easy) May have to remove cabinet or front/back plate to get to it)

Next check the heating element itself with a meter for continuity OHMS CLOSED CIRCUIT. If not its defective or has a short if its grounding out? Which in turns causes blown fuses or thermostats or
overheating.

The heating elements are located inside the heater ducts. If you think a heating element is faulty, test it with avolt-ohm-multimeter (VOM)set to the RX1 scale. Disconnect the leads from the power terminals and clip one probe of the VOM to each terminal. The meter should read about 12 ohms. If the reading is higher ohms, the heater is faulty and should be replaced. Replace a faulty heater with a new one of the same type and electrical rating. A heater connected to a 115-volt line usually has an 8.4-ohm resistance; a heater connected to a 220-volt line usually has 11 ohms resistance.


Check dryer Terminal block prongs both outside prongs should give combined 220, and 110 each if u check 1 outside & 1 center (ground) prong. Also check house electrical outlet for full voltage. 220 because if u only get half or 110 volts you will be able to run the machine which uses only 110 to run motor but not the heater which uses a full 220,

OR you may have a broken centrifugal switch in the motor because this switch activates the motor and the heater as well. supposed to be if the motor does not run , the heater should not heat in order not to create fire but you said that even the motor is not running, the heater is still heating, then there could be a problem with the motor centrifugal switch that is connected to this interlock switch that should trigger the heater.

Check the thermal cut off, the cycling and the hi limit thermostats.
For continuity or OHMS. If no ohms or resistance they need replacement.

In some dryer's the control panel relies on a thermistor rather than a CYCLING thermostat to regulate the drum's air temperature by monitoring the component's resistance changes; resistance goes down as temperature increases and up when temperature decreases. Once the drum's air temperature reaches a certain level required to dry clothes, the control panel shuts off the heater. The panel will turn the heater on again and begin another heating cycle when the thermistor indicates that more heat is needed to keep the air temperature constant inside the drum

Lastly check your moister sensor. ( located inside the dryer door usually) Especially if machine seems to shut down early and clothes are still wet.
Test with a meter at room temperature and it should show continuity.
A failed moisture sensor will affect the dryer run time in the automatic moisture sensing cycle but it will not affect the heating of the dryer or the timed cycle. Which are reflected by the thermostats.

Read more :http://www.ehow.com/info_12203962_check-dryer-thermistor.htmlGOD IS So GOOD !!!! AND THAT'S WHY MY ADVICE IS FREE

Dryer venting issues slow drying, fire flare ups, to hot, noise and clothes ripping etc

A lint filter that is full of lint will restrict airflow and lengthen dry times.
A blower wheel that is not firmly attached to the drive motor can slip and therefore not move air fast enough to properly dry clothes or even reduce airflow to the point where the high limit thermostat may trip and turn off the heat circuit.
In gas dryers, defective gas valve coils can create a symptom of taking too long to dry if they are intermittent. Check for proper flame ignition for the complete dry cycle to determine if this may be the cause.

The drum seals are used to prevent excess air from entering the dryer drum and act as a cushion between the drum and the front and rear bulkheads. The drum seals are made up of a felt like material. If the seal is torn or is worn then clothing can become stuck in the gap when the drum is turning. This can produce a scraping or thumping noise and the clothes can also be ripped and/or have black marks on them.
DOOR SEAL When the door is closed in gas and electric dryers the door seal helps to keep cooler air from entering the drum.

The vent tube or line itself. If it is kinked, smashed, to long, or filled, clogged with lint build up it can not only cause slow dry times but create a fire safety hazard. Try to stay away from using plastic or flimsy cellophane venting, aluminum is best!

To provide better air flow and heat dissipation try the following
Note the length of your dryer vent is a determining factor in how efficient your dryer will perform. If the total length of your pipe exceeds 25 feet then your dryer simply won't be able to perform as should, especially if your pipe runs vertically and through the roof. This is where a booster fan is sometimes needed. Booster Fans provide the extra push of air to exhaust the moisture and lint to the outside. These fans operate only when the dryer is activated, this is done by sensing the air flow through the pipe by a pressure switch mechanism or an electrical sensing relay which in turn activates the booster fan blower. I personally try to avoid adding booster fans simply because they are usually placed in a crawl space or attic and are therefore "Out of sight and out of mind." What I mean is... the unit could malfunction and you would never be aware of it. The result would be a restriction in the pipe which would cause a build up of lint at the fan. In addition, it's recommended that lint traps be placed before the fan itself which has to be cleaned out frequently. These can also easily be overlooked.







How to Check Dryer Thermistor eHow
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Mar 03, 2015 | Beko Dishwashers

1 Answer

Heater gets stucked on


Heating element
you must test the heating element for defective see the diagram
http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=lZCP55aScvI
Drying fan
test the motor fan,this help to dry the dish
Thermostat
if the thermostat is defective would not help to heating element to dry.

see the diagram
5_8_2012_1_39_30_pm.gif5_8_2012_1_40_20_pm.gif

May 08, 2012 | Frigidaire Dishwashers

1 Answer

Dishwasher not heating water already replaced in line heater element no change


Hello

Possible causes;

Incoming Water; Most manufacturers recommend that the water coming into your dishwasher be at least 120 degrees Fahrenheit. If the water is too cold, then your dishes don't clean properly. Or the dishwasher must run longer to heat up the water. Test the water temperature by running the hot water on your faucet for about 2 minutes or until it gets really hot. Place a waterproof thermometer under the water. If the water is too cold, increase the water temperature setting on your water heater.

Thermostat;The thermostat is responsible for regulating the water and drying cycle temperature. If this thermostat isn't working, the heating element at the base of the dishwasher tub may not come on. Test this element by selecting the hottest temperature setting. Run the dishwasher on the shortest cycle. Let the dishwasher run for a few minutes, and open it up. If the dishwasher water is not hot or the drying cycle isn't starting, order a new thermostat from a parts dealer since this component is difficult to fix.

Heating Element/Drying Fan; The heating element heats up the water and air. Access this element by removing the bottom rack. It looks like a long black rod. If any part of this component is broken or corroded, you must order a new one. You usually cannot fix this element. The drying fan is located in the main housing of the dishwasher, and it blows air around your dishes to dry them. Check this part by disconnecting the dishwasher from the power supply and opening up the housing. Examine the fan, and see if any dirt or debris is preventing it from moving. Clean it. If the fan won't turn at all or if the motor is burnt out, order a new fan since it's difficult to repair this part.

If your dishwasher isn't drying your dishes properly, see if you have selected a heated drying cycle. An air drying cycle doesn't completely dry your dishes. Never overload the dishwasher, as this prevents heat from circulating around your dishes, keeping them from drying properly. Plastic and Teflon

Sep 07, 2011 | Westinghouse Dishwashers

1 Answer

Green light flashes, book says that there is a problem with heating circuit. How can I check this


Hi


If green light is blinking then it may be an issue with heater circuit, door switch or wash pump, please reset the power to the dishwasher. After, 5 minutes check if you are still getting the same error. If yes, then it is a water heating fault. To resolve this error try pressing this reset sequence-- Heat Dry - Normal - Heat Dry - Normal or High Temp - Air Dry - High Temp - Air Dry or Hi Temp Scrub, energy saver dry, Hi Temp Scrub, energy saver dry. Now let the unit run for 2-3 minutes and then you press the Cancel/Drain button and allow it to completely drain and reset. If this doesn't work then it's an issue with the wash pump not pumping the water past the heater efficiently or due to lack of water to heat. Please make sure that heater is not open circuited and is heating the water efficiently. You'll have to check the heater using a multimeter; the meter should read between 3000 to 3300 ohms (Use multimeter on Rx1 ohm setting). If heater is fine then make sure water pressure is optimum and fill valve is working fine. Hope this helps... Please post back if you need more information.


Daniel

Aug 30, 2011 | Whirlpool 24 in. DU1055XTP Built-in...

1 Answer

Washer starts then stopps a few minutes in and the delicate and fast and dry lights flash,please help


this sounds like a heating circuit failure, two most likely are failed heater
or pressure switch. Heater is access fro bottom of unit after base tray has been removed base tray will have safety flot switch attached to it,
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1 Answer

The clean light keeps blinking and won't run new cycle


Whirlpool & Kitchen-Aid
Tall Tub Dishwashers
PROBLEM: STOPPED RUNNING, WILL NOT START AND CLEAN LED BLINKS 7 TIMES, THEN REPEATS (WATER HEATING FAULT)
Control is programmed to stop running and not allow any further
cycles if it detects a water heating problem (no temperature
increase detected in heated Main Wash cycle or in 3 consecutive
cycles on the latest software version). Control blinks the Clean
LED 7 times repeatedly and disables the Start/Resume key until
cleared.
Running Diagnostics clears the control and allows it
to operate again. The water heating condition
must be corrected or the control will stop
running again. See potential causes below.
Check If…
Heater circuit problem:
♦ Open heater.
♦ Wire disconnected, open connection or component
in heater circuit.
♦ Faulty heater drive circuit on control.
Then…
1. Check operation of heater in Diagnostics cycle.
2. Unplug dishwasher or disconnect power.
3. Check resistance of heater and all components
and connections in the water heating circuit or heat
dry circuit.
Door switch not making contact consistently:
♦ Misaligned door latch assembly (which can be
aggravated by high door closure force keeping
strike plate from fully seating).
♦ Faulty door switch (high resistance).
♦ Loose or missing installation anchor screws,
causing tank to shift in cut-out.
NOTE: Neutral switch on plastic tub models is only in series with
the heater; other loads are not affected.
1. Unplug dishwasher or disconnect power.
2. Measure resistance of door switch contacts while
checking mechanical operation of latch assembly.
Confirm switches not loose from assembly. Check
strike plate and door closure.
Wash pump not pumping water past the heater efficiently.
• Foreign object in pump
• Excessive foaming
• Clogged pump screen or broken chopper screen
• Loose electrical connection in motor circuit
See Tech Sheet “WASH PUMP WILL NOT PUMP”.
Lack of water to heat. (Unit not filling properly)
• Insufficient water supply pressure
• Fill valve screen blocked or valve not opening fully
• Loose electrical connection on Fill Valve.
• Float switch obstructed or functioning abnormally
See Tech Sheet “WILL NOT FILL OR LOW
WATER”.
Diagnostic Key Dance:
Heat Dry - Normal - Heat Dry - Normal or
High Temp - Air Dry - High Temp - Air Dry

HOPE THIS HELP

Jan 24, 2010 | KitchenAid 24 in. KUDS01FLSS Built-In...

1 Answer

Electrolux de 6850 dishwasher


Hi,
I followed some of the good instructions already on Fixya. I had checked the heater and it was o.k. I then took the front door of the washer apart to get at the control box. Sure enough, I also had the common design fault. One leg of the rely had scorch marks and was now disconnected from the circuit board. I will solder tonight and test. I include a photo of the burned board. TNoel P8017c86.jpg

May 07, 2009 | Zanussi 24 in. DE6850 Free-standing...

6 Answers

Fisher and paykel DD-603 dish drawer


Hi there, If you have had an F1 you need to dry out the product in order to reset the flood switch. This is a simple process as follows: 1. Ensure product is disconnect from wall so that it has no power. 2. Open the bottom drawer and put your hand in through the gap where the bottom of the bottom drawer comes out and feel the base of the cabinet that houses the drawers for water. 3. If there is water present dry it out as much as you can with paper towels or old rags. This machine is designed to drain all water to the front of the base of the cabinet away from the flood switch that sits at the back left corner of the cabinet base that the drawers are fitted into. 4. When you have base of the cabinet dry you need to ensure that the switch has not moisture on it in order for it to reset and allow you to start using the product. This can be done 2 ways: 1. leave bottom drawer open for 24-48 hours to allow natural air circulation to dry out the connection. or 2. position a hair dryer to blow air into the back left corner of the base of the cabinet and dry it out quicker. This still make take up to 6 hours as the flood switch had a protective cover over it to try to prevent F1's for small spills. 5. When the product had been dried out, important that you make sure it has, when you switch on the machine the F1 should be gone and ready to use. Please run each drawer seperately on a rinse cycle to confirm to yourself that it flooding was possibly caused by something blocking the sprayarm, or something stacked too high or something got stuck in the pump temporarily stopping it from draining effectively or the product suddsing too much from spilt rinse aide in one of the drawers. If each drawer runs successfully you should be in the all clear to start using it again. Please note though: if something blocks the spray arm that is directly linked to the pump your drawer will flood as a result. If you have something stuck in the pump peventing it from draining effectively ie a toothpick or piece of broken crockery this will cause your product to flood, but you will hear an louder than normal sound when the pump is running. And finally if you spill rinse aide in your drawer when filling it clean all spilt rinse aide to prevent unit from over sudsing when running. Regards KAR-Ltd

May 02, 2006 | Fisher and Paykel 23 in. DD-603SS Built-in...

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