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Are you trying to replace the entire ignition system or just the battery operated starter module?
Neither is is extremely hard to do. The best way, is to keep most of the existing wiring in place to use as a guide. The Ignition Module is the easiest to remove. Unscrew the outer plastic ring of the igniter button and the module can be removed from under the control panel. If that's all you're planning to replace, leave the wires intact to the old module and transfer them one by one to the new module. Then install the new module in reverse order of the way you took the old one out. When you install the new battery into the new module, be sure the + end of the battery is facing you, when you slide it into the holder or it will not work.
If you're replacing the spark ignitor(s) at the burner, leave the existing wiring intact (unless it's damaged) . Remove the cooking grates, the flame tamer and the igniter shield and you will have access to the spark ignitor(s). Slide the wire off the spark ignitor pin, remove the old one and install the new one. Slide the ignitor wire onto the pin and you're ready to go.
A word of caution, always use Broilmaster Parts and watch your hands and fingers around any stainless steel parts. As, it they be very sharp and cut you before you realize it.
Hope this helps you replace the starter.
Please be kind enough to give me a good rating for the solution I provided you. Thanks and Happy Grilling!!
The Mini itself does not have a serial number. If you need to provide a serial number for support or any other reasons just use the Serial number for the stylus. This is located inside the stylus underneath the battery. If you have any other questions you can call PolyVision tech support directly at 800-620-7659 Opt. 1.
No, the eno board shouldn't require any calibration after the pen cap is left off. The pen does power off after a while to save bettery power. You just put the cap back on for a second and Presto! - it's on again!
The LCM or lighting control module is located under the dash to the right of the steering wheel, first you need to remove the hush panel under the knee brace, then there are 2 screws the hold it to a bracket. Unplug the 4 connectors towards the back and then slide it out and replace.
You need to drill out the rivets on the bottom of the drawer then slide the stainless sleeve up and out. Then you need to remove the 2 rivets on the middle part inside the gasket. Once you drill them out the insulation goes downward to remove. Then you will see the excess for the harness. Replace the rivets with flat head screws.
Assuming you cannot lift the rear door and pull out, you will need to remove the back cover (take out the four screws) and take out the fuser module (it has heat temperature warnings on it so let it cool down before handling). The module has two sets of wires on either side that need to be disconnected. Four screws hold the module in place and need to be removed. The paper usually gets stuck in there. After removing the module, you may need to remove the small rear roller from the module by gently prying it up and out after removing four additional screws on the fuser that hold the metal bracket on the fuser in place. Removing these four screws (two on top, two on side) allows you to slide the bracket up and down and more easily access the small roller that needs to be removed so you can get all the paper out (it will likely be accordion-folded and really compressed in there).