A copper pipe fitting broke causing the unit to lose all refrigerant. I have soldered a new fitting in but do not know if it possible to recharge the system. I have heard it is possible to solder a saddle valve into the system. Is this true? If so, where does one find the valve? What refrigerant do I need? Is that refrigerant available to the retail public?
Thanks much, Dan
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if you mean the pipe is down by the compressor, this is how they normally do it since they normally do not come with service valves, but they should have removed the valve and soldered it closed. It probab;y only uses about 6 ounces, but it probably is R12. It can be converted to 134A but not sure if it cost effective. Also, when they added refrigerant years ago, did they repair the leak because you may have a couple issues
I have noticed some good advice here when it comes to pulling a vacuum and recharging a refrigerator. I also have seen some not so good response to answers when it comes to someone that is new to pulling a complete vacuum. *Refrigerators and absolute Vacuum are about the most difficult combinations to obtain. First mankind has never achieved absolute vacuum and the closest we will come in our life time to complete or absolute vacuum is in outer space. When repair is done to a sealed system there are a few things to remember. 1 Once a sealed system is opened never leave it unsealed to the outside environment. Most new refrigerators have ester oil as a lubricant and ester oil will draw moisture from the air and hold it in the oil resulting in the oil carrying moisture particles up the capillary tube and creating a blockage that appears as if the suction side is pulling a deep vacuum. 2 Always replace filter drier with a new filter drier and arrow pointed into the correct direction. 3Always find and fix a leak in a sealed system before recharging. * Some leaks are in the Yoder Condenser Loop and the only way to fix is to bypass. This will sometimes show up as sweating around the door frame but much better to deal with than complete refrigerator replacement. 4Pull a vacuum as long as it takes to boil off any moister that may be trapped in the sealed system. If system has no leaks and you use a heavy duty vacuum pump this is about a hour. 5Always test gauges for leaking seals in gauges before spending so much time pulling any vacuum. *Bad gauge seals will result in moisture or poor vacuum results. 6Always charge refrigerators by weight. *Refrigerators use very little Freon. 6-8 ounces, over or under charging will result in poor cooling results all the time. 7Never try to solder steel to copper piping with just silver solder. * Always use eutectic solder for soldering copper to steel. * In this case eutectic solder is defined as Flux-Coated Silver Brazing Alloy. For example Safety-Silver 45 by Harris. 8Always use the correct oil for the correct refrigerant. * Too much, too little or wrong lubricant will damage the system. If you have questions please let me know, Thanks, Sea Breeze Here is more....... As we talked earlier I did some research on Fijitsu Split systems and as always with these units they is very little in instructions or model/size category to give good solid answers to all the possible problems you may be having. I do know with my experience that the R410A are critical during installation that they havea very good and long vacuum during pre-charging the lines during installation. One little bit of outside air in the lines will cause extreme head pressures that will also simulate some of the symptoms you described today. R410a runs at 60% higher pressure that the older R22 units did and purge and clean silver solder of fittings is critical to the unit's performance. Even a crimp in a discharge line makes for problems during installation. here is a link=> Brochure here=> http://www.fujitsugeneral.com/PDF_06/halcyon06_brochure.pdf If you need more answers feel free to contact me here or through my profile and again Thanks for using Fixya, Sea Breeze
I HAVE ONE OF THESE COOLERS I HAVE REPAIRED MY UNIT BY CAREFULLY PULLING OUT EACH EVAP COIL AND SANDING THE RUSTY AREA AROUND THE SOLDER CONNECTIONS AND SOLDERING THEM WITH A PROPANE TORCH GLAZING THE LINES WITH SILVER SOLDER AND FLUX. THEN AROUND ON THE BACK OF THE UNIT IT HAS 2 VALVES THAT CONTROL THE FREON GAS FLOW/ CUT THE COPPER LINES THAT GO TO THE 2 VALVES AND CAREFULLY BEND THE TUBING AND RESOLDER THE TWO LINES BACK TOGETHER WITH A HOMEMADE COPPER TUBING , BY ROLLING COPPER AROUND A SCREWDRIVER FASHIONING A TUBE TO CONNECT THE PIPES TOGETHER, RESOLDER THE PIPES SO THE FREON WILL NOW FLOW FREELY INTO EACH COIL. THEN RECHARGE THE UNIT WITH A CAN OF PAG 1 OUNCE OIL AND 2 OUNCES OF FREON 134A. RUN UNIT TEST FOR LEAKS WITH A SPAY BOTTLE AND SOAP WATER. YOU CAN OBTAIN A SADDLE VALVE FOR RECHARGING REFRIGERATORS AND INSTALL IT ON THE COMPRESSOR TUBE THAT IS COMING OUT OF THE COMPRESSOR AND IS WELDED SHUT BY FACTORY WHEN BUILT. CHAR4GE THE UNIT WITH 3.75 OUNCES OF 134A AND 1 OUNCE OF PAG OIL TO REPLENISH COMPRESSOR OIL FROM DISCHARGEING UNIT! REPAIR AS DIRECTED AND BOTH SIDES WILL REACH A 36 DEGREES. THE UNIT WILL NOW COOL TO 36 AND SHUT OFF BOTH SIDES ARE NOW WORKING AS 1 UNIT AND COOLING EFFICENTLY. THE VALVES GET STUCK AND WONT ALLOW FREON TO PASS THEN 1 VALVE LEAKS AND THE OTHER WONT OPEN. THIS IS A COMMON PROBLEM WITH THIS UNIT THIS IS THE BEST AND CHEAPEST REPAIR BY DAVID MAYHALL. MYINVENTION4U2USE@GMAIL.COM THE FIXIT MAN! LOCATED IN ALTON ILLNOIS ELECTRONIX SALES & SERVICE 3120 E BROADWAY ALTON IL 62002 PHONE 618-433-1815
Hi .. there should be piping connectors at each end of the tubing. I would disconnect those connectors andtake them to the building supply store and get new fittings and a new supply hose. The new hose does not need to be copper,. you do not need to cut the existing fittings off the wall or the fridge, the new fittings, or new hose can connect directly to the old fittings. my tool of choice is a pair of crescent wrenches
If you punctured the aluminum tubing or the freezer aluminum evaporator , it cannot be repaired . If the puncture is in the copper tubing , only silver solder will fix . On the compressor , you will see a short piece of tubing , capped off . This is where the access fitting was . A good technician will ALWAYS remove the access valve , due to possible refrigerant leak . After removing the end of the tube , silver solder another valve into the tubing . Evacuate the system , recharge with correct amount of refrigerant , crimp the tubing at the access valve and remove the access valve . Re-solder the end of the short tubing , and it's done .
no the coating cannot be repaired, because the coating is heat resistant and anything u put on will not adhere or be heat resistant enough, a silicon auto sealant may last for while but not likely to last long, u cannot solder as to high a heat will ruin core, had a though there is a cold copper solder solvent for fusing copper pipes if u wrapped with this copper tubing and cold soldered it might work it works on hot water copper pipes. If u try this and it works please keep me posted on this my email is firstname.lastname@example.org
First of all, you need a faucet wrench. It's about 12 inches long, has a t-handle on one end and jaws on the other -- this will grip the plastic nuts to remove them.
I'm not sure what is meant by breaking the seal. If the soldered fitting broke loose, the best approach is to cut the copper pipe off past the damage and solder a new fitting on it necessary for the new hose to screw onto it.
There are a lot of ways to solve this problem -- if you can't manage the soldering, we can discuss other options.