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Is it your ice maker, or possible the blades that crush the ice or dispense the cubes? What can happen in the latter case is that during the storm the ice melted and pooled in the cutter mechanism. Then, when power was restored, the blades were frozen solid. To fix, investigate taking out the cutter mechanism and letting it thaw and drain. Then reinstall and use frequently for the first few days to prevent refereezimg.
Cory, you sound like you have a bad water valve as well as a bad control board for your dispensor. If you've had any storms in your area in the past 4 - 6 weeks, it's very possible that the storm took both parts out.
We have parts for GE as well as mots other major brands, so please give us a call with your complete model number and we will get your parts out to you right away!
We hope this solves your problem and we look forward to being able to assist you with future issues.
You will have to determine whether the problem is due to no water getting to the icemaker or a control problem in the icemaker unit.
There is a water valve near the bottom of the refrigerator where water from the outside source enters the refrigerator. This valve sends water to the icemaker (and probably the water dispenser) when the refrigerator controls call for water. These valves can malfunction, and the water lines can get blocked.
The other possibility is that something inside the icemaker controls has malfunctioned, and it is not calling for water.
Open the door and hold the door switch down and try the ice
dispenser. Do you hear any thing. Take all the ice out of the bin and try.
Anything? Take the bin out and try. Anything? The motor is behind the back
cover where the bin sits. See if you get power to it using a voltmeter. If your
are, probably bad motor. If not dispenser switch.
You have a solenoid switch which switches the
dispenser back and forth from crushed to cube. It could be stuck or not working
or the parts connecting it could be disconnected or broken. You will have to
observe to see if any parts are moving and if any noise is coming from the
You have two points where you can check the dispenser water. At the rear where the water supply comes in is the water inlet valve. If you disconnect the dispenser water line and then see how fast the water comes out when you try the dispenser. If it's slow here there is a valve our water supply problem. If it's normal, disconnect it at the bottom of the freezer door and try again. It it's normal here it may be frozen in the door. If this is the case open the door till it thaws. A blanket over the opening will prevent thawing of all the food.
Turn the water supply off to the back of refrigerator and take the line feeding the supply to the water control valves off and then put the line into a pan to purge any trash that may have collected before entering control valve. It is very possible that a piece of rust or a piece of plastic is holding the control valve open slightly. The continuous dripping of the chilled water is what I suspect is causing the condensate. On bottom of the refrigerator Sears uses a number like this example. You may find the number behind the cold food section door near floor. I will need that to help you better. Example 215.22897
Sears always gives their models a different number than the same models that GE, Whirlpool, Westinghouse and on and on. When you are able to see if the valve is stuck and need to clean or replace it we will need your model like in the example to find the correct part, Let me know, Thanks, Sea Breeze
wat temp are you runninr in the refrigerator side? it should be at 38 degrees because now days the are using an averaging sensor inside and also if tis any colder yoou will possibly freeze you produce