Question about Maytag SDG3606A Gas Dryer

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SDG3606AWW Gas dryer will not dry

Changed limit and booster heater also changed flame sensor. The timer does not move when you have it in the sensor dry position. In the times dry it will move but the burner will not stay lit after a few minutes. Checked the burner limits and thye are both closed. Could the timer have any thing to do with powering up the gas valve after it runs for awhile?

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  • rhodesrl Feb 11, 2009

    The timer will move in timed dry but it stops in auto dry mode. Thats what I was wanting to know if the contacts in the timer could fail that way.

  • Mark Egan May 11, 2010

    The gas valve cycles on the drum thermostat. Power for that circuit comes from the timer.

    If the timer is not working correctly, then the gas valve will not have power to come on, IF the thermostat is calling for heat.

    I am suspect that the timer has failed because you say it does not turn. The burner lighting, then going out, indicates that the thermostat is probably working, unless it's being shutdown on the temperature limit stat, which you say you've replaced (so we need to assume it's good.).

    Let me know what you find. I will be happy to help more.


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Your problem could be the gas valve coil packs, there are 2 coils that open the valve for the gas and after they heat up they could then fail and you have no gas.

Posted on Apr 23, 2010

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Dryer doesnt work on settings


I have repaired (2) gas Maytag dryers that appeared to have timer issues. In both cases, it wasn't the timer, but the temperature sensors. In both cases, I replaced them and the dryers operated A-OK. The sensors signal the timer to advance. One sensor is located just beyond the flame where the gas is burning, the other just before the squirrel cage blower. In addition, there are (2) electrical coils located in front of the gas igniter assembly. If replacing the temperature sensors doesn't fix the issue, then replace the coils.

Apr 06, 2014 | Maytag Dryers

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Admiral Dryer Model #AGD4475TQ No Heat


This is very rare on a gas dryer but I have seen it. If you have already replaced all that other stuff I would say it has to be inside the timer. On one I worked on once I could remove that orange wire and the dryer would function ok so I ordered a new timer, they sent me a bad timer. Same problem. I finally got a working timer after going through a bunch of mess. That fixed it. So if all the other components are working it very well could be the timer.

Dec 02, 2013 | Admiral Dryers

1 Answer

Non Glowing Igniter


What solenoids are you referring to?

When you set the timer and heat selector switches on your dryer and press the button [switch] to turn it on, the direction of 120VAC passes through the heat selector switch through the timer switch through the cycling thermostat through the hi-limit switch, through the thermal cut-off fuse to the burner assembly's gas valve.

Simultaneously, as the current is traveling through a path to the 1st gas valve coil, current is also traveling through a path to the flame sensor- and then to the igniter.

The igniter will begin to glow and when it gets hot enough, the flame sensor will detect the heat and switch off. which then diverts current to the second gas valve coils.

The second gas valve coils activate plungers in the gas valve which allows gas to flow out into the burner housing. The igniter still being hot, ignites the gas to a long blue flame.

To maintain the proper air temperature, the heat in the blower housing is monitored by the cycling thermostat. During normal operation, air temperature should be between 120 degrees Fahrenheit and 160 degrees Fahrenheit.

When the air reaches the proper temperature specific to your dryer model, the cycling thermostat will switch off the voltage to the burner assembly.

The hi-limit thermostat and thermal cut-off fuse monitor the drum air temperature. If there is an air flow problem [restriction or total blockage], the hi-limit thermostat may switch off the voltage to prevent damage to the dryer.

Eventually, if the air flow problem [restriction or total blockage] is not corrected, the thermal cut-off fuse will fail (blow) and the dryer won't heat at all.

Check continuity to the following components, thermal cut-off fuse, hi-limit thermostat, igniter, flame sensor, and cycling thermostat. Of course you will take your readings with the power cord of the dryer unplugged from the wall outlet.

You will either disconnect [isolate] any of the wire leads going to their respective components during the test [using a multimeter (analog or digital)]; OR remove each of the components entirely from the dryer to test them.

1.) A good thermal cut-off fuse will have 0 Ohms of resistance. On the other hand, if the needle [on a an analog tester] does not move OR the digital display [on a digital meter] has not changed significantly, there is NO continuity - which means the fuse has burned out and needs to be replaced

2.) A dryer's Hi-Limit Thermostat is activated by hi-temperature changes (between 250 degrees Fahrenheit and 300 degrees Fahrenheit.

A good hi-limit thermostat will have 0 Ohms of resistance at room temperature.

To test the thermostat's response to temperature change, place the component on an electric griddle or skillet. Set the heat on the skillet or griddle to the appropriate temperature according to the temperature rating stamped on the hi-limit thermostat you are testing. If the hi-limit thermostat switches off within 5% of that temperature, the part is functioning properly. However, if the hi-limit thermostat does not switch off OR switches off prematurely, the hi-limit thermostat is faulty and will have to be replaced. [Remember, when the switch turns off at the appropriate temperature level- you should get a high resistance reading to show that the circuit is "open")

3.) Perform the same procedure as step 2 to test the Cycling Thermostat: First at room temperature and then its response to temperature change. The only difference is, the test temperature range will be somewhere between 120-160 degrees Fahrenheit Once again, refer to the temperature rating stamped on the component you are testing- and the 5% tolerance remains the same, too.

4.) The resistance reading for the igniter is between 50 and 400 Ohms of resistance; anything else, it's faulty- toss it and replace it.

5.) You should get a resistance reading of 0 Ohms at the flame sensor-

Flame sensors are tricky though. Flame sensors could still short out and
allow the igniter to glow- but would prevent voltage from reaching the gas coil. For example, the igniter will glow and not turn off and a flame will not be established because there was no voltage at the gas coil to open up and release gas for ignition.

Hope this info helps...I would appreciate a follow-up from you when you resolve this problem- to gain more knowledge and skill.

Thank-you and best wishes on your project

Jul 15, 2013 | Whirlpool LGR3624JQ Gas Dryer

1 Answer

I have replaced radiant flame sensor, high limit thermostar, cycling thermostat, coil kit, and blower wheel on maytag dryer ldg9206aae, and still it takes forever to dry and is not hot enough.


if the flame is lighting like it should and you changed out all those parts did you clean out the lint filter duct and clean out the vent line?try removing the vent line from the back of the dryer and run it,if the flame stays on longer and it heats you have a blocked vent line,if the air can't move and that's all a dryer does the clothes can't dry

Apr 10, 2013 | Dryers

1 Answer

Dryer air is not getting hot. All other functions still work.


There are several things that can prevent a dryer from not heating.. Unplug Power Before checking.
Electric Models
1- Power- Your dryer runs on 220volts. 110 runs the entire dryer and 110 runs just the element. Your breaker may have half tripped. Check to see if you are getting the correct amount of power by using a ohm meter. Also check the power cord for burn marks on the plugin and the cord itself.
2- The thermal fuse can prevent this from heating. The thermal fuse is a sensor on the blower housing the measures the temperature of the air. There is a cycling thermistat near the thermal fuse. If the dryer temp gets over 190-220 degrees the thermal fuse will blow to cut power to the element to prevent fire. You can test this by using a continuity tester.
3- High limit and/or thermal cutoff. These are both sensors on the heating element housing. Thermal cutoff is at the top and the high limit is near the bottom above the heating element connectors. Test these with a continuity tester.
4- Heating element- Just below the high limit on the heater housing. Test for continuity.
5- Motor- The motor has to reach a certain rpm to activate a sinfrigrial switch inside the motor. If the rpm is not reached it will not allow current to go to the element.
6- Timer- Make sure you are trying this on timed dry. Sometimes people use air fluff and forget to change it back. The timer could also not be sending current to the heater.

Gas models
1- Electric ignitor- Inside the flame tunnel inside of dryer near where gas line hooks up. Usually if it glows than it is still good but check to see if it is sending and amp signal to the heat coils.
2- Heater coils are two valves that open up when the ignitor send signal saying the ignitor can ignite the gas. Heat coils will not open to send gas if it does not receive a signal from the ignotor. They look like two round disk with two wires running from ignitor.
3- Flame sensor- Change if you change the heater coils. The flame sensor could not be detecting the flame inside so it shuts down the ignitor.
4- Motor- See above
5- Timer See above

If you have any further questions or need further assistance please feel free to comment me back

Jul 28, 2011 | Kenmore 63942 Dryer

2 Answers

Dryer is running, but heat will not turn on


There are several things that can prevent a dryer from not heating.. Unplug Power Before checking.
Electric Models
1- Power- Your dryer runs on 220volts. 110 runs the entire dryer and 110 runs just the element. Your breaker may have half tripped. Check to see if you are getting the correct amount of power by using a ohm meter. Also check the power cord for burn marks on the plugin and the cord itself.
2- The thermal fuse can prevent this from heating. The thermal fuse is a sensor on the blower housing the measures the temperature of the air. There is a cycling thermistat near the thermal fuse. If the dryer temp gets over 190-220 degrees the thermal fuse will blow to cut power to the element to prevent fire. You can test this by using a continuity tester.
3- High limit and/or thermal cutoff. These are both sensors on the heating element housing. Thermal cutoff is at the top and the high limit is near the bottom above the heating element connectors. Test these with a continuity tester.
4- Heating element- Just below the high limit on the heater housing. Test for continuity.
5- Motor- The motor has to reach a certain rpm to activate a sinfrigrial switch inside the motor. If the rpm is not reached it will not allow current to go to the element.
6- Timer- Make sure you are trying this on timed dry. Sometimes people use air fluff and forget to change it back. The timer could also not be sending current to the heater.

Gas models
1- Electric ignitor- Inside the flame tunnel inside of dryer near where gas line hooks up. Usually if it glows than it is still good but check to see if it is sending and amp signal to the heat coils.
2- Heater coils are two valves that open up when the ignitor send signal saying the ignitor can ignite the gas. Heat coils will not open to send gas if it does not receive a signal from the ignotor. They look like two round disk with two wires running from ignitor.
3- Flame sensor- Change if you change the heater coils. The flame sensor could not be detecting the flame inside so it shuts down the ignitor.
4- Motor- See above
5- Timer See above

If you have any further questions or need further assistance please feel free to comment me back.

Jul 27, 2011 | Kenmore Dryers

1 Answer

Lgq8611lw0 dryer spins but no heat


Wow that a nice gas dryer. It features electronic drying. I would make sure the sensors are clean. They get a film of dryer sheet goop on them and the sensing board cannot read dampness and shuts down the dryer thinking the cloths are dry. So check that first. Your thermostat control has 4 wires. 2 of the smaller wires warm a small heater to change the rate of time the thermosdisc opens. Newer models have a thermister. Next to it is a thermal disc.e749f09.jpg It kills power to the gas assembly but does not kill the motor. If it is open then their won't be any heat. The next thing to check for continuity is the flame sensor.db76c0c.jpg It must have continuity. It powers up the ignitor.6c68f9d.jpg If either of these are open( no continuity) then you won't have no heat. When the control is cool it powers the gas assembly. The flame sensor and ignitor kick in. The solenoids cannot kick in because the ignitor is on. When the temp gets hot enough it bends a bi-metal inside the flame sensor and opens the circuit to the ignitor. With the flame sensor and ignitor out of the circuit the surge of power can now zap those solenoids, gas comes out hitting the ignitor, and whooosh you have flames. It only take a minute or 2 of flames to warm the dryer to 160f. Then the control shuts down the operation. So what can go wrong? If the limit is blown or the control is blown then no power can get to the gas assembly. If either the flame sensor or ignitor is bad you won't get heat finally if the heat works a little bit but no more, then replace those solenoids.83a012d.jpg They tend to fail when hot and work when cold. More Here
Even more Here

This video shows how to get into your machine:

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1 Answer

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1 Answer

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1 Answer

Whirlpool ggw9250pwg


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