Question about Whirlpool Ultimate Care II LSQ9564J Top Load Washer

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Lubricate agitator? Unit seems to get hot during a cycle. 1.Does the agitator ever need lubricated? 2. Does constant water pressure from the supply line hurt the washer in any way when the washer is not running?

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No on both counts

Posted on Feb 11, 2009

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How do I fix washing machine to finish emptying during rinse and spin cycle?


Long shot, but does it fill the same as when new? I would check the atmospheric switch which is a hollow tube that runs down the inside of the drum(not in the wash cage) when the water fills, It pushes air up to stop the fill. It may have gotten clogged. Or partially clogged.

Mar 28, 2016 | Fisher and Paykel Washing Machines

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Loud constant noise (metal on metal clicking / whirring / grinding) during spin cycle


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Nov 22, 2013 | Whirlpool Washing Machines

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The washer will start a load of laundry then about 1/2 way through the cycle shuts off and LF show where the time is shown for the load to be finished, this does not matter what size or type of load is...


LF Error code: LF stands for long fill and occurs when the water level does not change for a period of time after the valves are turned on.

All washers are designed to operate with a water supply pressure of 20-100 PSI. When the pressure drops below 20 PSI the washer can have the following problems:

* Slow Fill- low water pressure reduces the speed at which water flows into the machine.
o Verify the pressure at all other water sources in the house (i.e. sinks, showers, etc..). If you find other places where the pressure is low, the problem is not with the machine but with the water supply.
* Continuous Fill- The valve may not fully seat under 20 PSI which would allow for a constant flow even when the machine is not supposed to be filling.
o Contact the water company to verify the pressure being supplied to the house.
* dispenser- Needs a minimum amount of pressure to function. May dispense constantly, at the wrong time, or not at all.
o A plumber may need to be consulted if the pressure is found to be too low.

Things you can check :

* Are the Hot and Cold water faucets turned on
* Are the water hoses kinked
o Make sure all the hose are straight and able to flow water
* Are the screen inside the water valve plugged
o Inlet valve should be free of debris and rust.
o Turn off water and remove the inlet hoses from washer.
o Remove any accumulated film or particles.
o Assure rubber washers are in the end of each inlet hose.
o Reinstall hoses, turn on water and check for leaks.

Error codes can be caused by a Power Surge or other electrical anomaly,attempt to return the washer to operation by following the Hard Reset procedure below.

1. Unplug or turn the circuit breaker off for 30 seconds.
2. Reconnect the unit to the power source by turning the breaker back on or plugging the unit back into the wall outlet.
3. Press the Pause/Cancel/Stop button twice to clear the display.
4. Start a short cycle to check the operation of the machine by selecting a cycle and pressing and holding the start button until the machine starts

Please rate my solution if it was at all helpful.


Thanks, Repairman45.

Dec 17, 2010 | Kenmore Oasis HE 27082 Top Load Washer

1 Answer

I get an LF code any time I use the whitest white cycle, and now I get the code whenever I use the hot water temp.


LF Error code: LF stands for long fill and occurs when the water level does not change for a period of time after the valves are turned on.

All washers are designed to operate with a water supply pressure of 20-100 PSI. When the pressure drops below 20 PSI the washer can have the following problems:

* Slow Fill- low water pressure reduces the speed at which water flows into the machine.
o Verify the pressure at all other water sources in the house (i.e. sinks, showers, etc..). If you find other places where the pressure is low, the problem is not with the machine but with the water supply.
* Continuous Fill- The valve may not fully seat under 20 PSI which would allow for a constant flow even when the machine is not supposed to be filling.
o Contact the water company to verify the pressure being supplied to the house.
* dispenser- Needs a minimum amount of pressure to function. May dispense constantly, at the wrong time, or not at all.
o A plumber may need to be consulted if the pressure is found to be too low.

Things you can check :

* Are the Hot and Cold water faucets turned on
* Are the water hoses kinked
o Make sure all the hose are straight and able to flow water
* Are the screen inside the water valve plugged
o Inlet valve should be free of debris and rust.
o Turn off water and remove the inlet hoses from washer.
o Remove any accumulated film or particles.
o Assure rubber washers are in the end of each inlet hose.
o Reinstall hoses, turn on water and check for leaks.

Error codes can be caused by a Power Surge or other electrical anomaly,attempt to return the washer to operation by following the Hard Reset procedure below.

1. Unplug or turn the circuit breaker off for 30 seconds.
2. Reconnect the unit to the power source by turning the breaker back on or plugging the unit back into the wall outlet.
3. Press the Pause/Cancel/Stop button twice to clear the display.
4. Start a short cycle to check the operation of the machine by selecting a cycle and pressing and holding the start button until the machine starts

Thanks for using FixYa - a 4 THUMBS rating is appreciated for answering your FREE question.

Sep 10, 2010 | Kenmore Elite Oasis 27052 Top Load Washer

1 Answer

I have a Miele W1918 washer which has worked perfectly for a decade. Now there is not enough water to fill the tub during the first 'rinse' phase of normal cycles or the 'separate rinse' cycle. The machine...


I have exactly the same problem. I am currently getting around the issue by letting the machine do the washing then at the end of that cycle do a manual rinse cycle.

Jun 04, 2010 | Miele Novotronic W1918A Front Load Washer

1 Answer

Spin cycle is off balance washing machine is


i dont believe it is the agitator per say. Assuming this problem has just started and doesnt have transportation bolts still attatched. Two conditions cause the imballance. 1)(if unit is a top loader) Check if all 4 shock absorber springs are well lubricated and not sticking. 2)A more involved problem which often happens, Underneath the washer, is the drive motor. on the motor, is a round pulley. this pulley needs to come off and strip further until you see a long spring. If it is not broken, clean it up using a solvent and a rag. reassemble and test. (if spring is defective, it will slip instead of grip on a spin cycle.

Sep 17, 2009 | KitchenAid KAWS700L Top Load Washer

1 Answer

Whirlpool duet washer model # GHW9100W pours water on the floor


1. Find out where the leak is coming from. Does it leak constantly or during one part of the cycle?
A constant leak means the leak is in the valve where the hoses hook to the washer, the supply valves, or the lines to the washer from the water supply.
The other two options are when the washer is agitating or pumping the water out between cycles.


2. See if it leaks during both cycles and the test there would be to lift the lid just as it starts to drain and wait to see if the water stops leaking.
If it doesn't, then run the drain cycle to see if it gets worse or better.
Results may not be immediate as it would take a few minutes for whatever water there to finish dripping.


3. Wait until the water has been pumped out, lift the lid and check the drip again.
When the location of the leak has been determined, unless the washer has been frozen, most leaks can be fixed without parts and just using hand tools.
If you have an older, top load washer, the back or front will come off so you can observe where the leak is coming from.

WARNING. You are working with a moving, electrically hot machine that could flood.
You must take your time and not put your hand or hair in somewhere that can catch you.
You should not have to get into the upper control center, thus reducing the shock hazard.

4. Before turning the machine on, remove a cover. On some washers, there are two screws on the bottom L & R front corners that take the front panel loose.
Once the screws are removed, the front cover is hinged at the top and you simply pull the bottom away from the machine until it comes un-hooked, and set the cover aside.

There shouldn't be many exposed wires or ends, but a few. Don't touch the terminals or lay something metal in the machine that could fall on the terminals.


5. Take a flashlight, look for obvious leaks or better, water stains around nuts, hose clamps, etc.
Most likely you'll see some water residue here and there and that would be normal as a washer is wet. Look for puddles, long white streaks, calcium deposits.
Most likely, you won't find standing water, but some clues of where you should look when the machine is running.
Unless this leak is so obivous you can see what's wrong, you don't need to start it and you should repair the problem.
Once possible areas have been identified, you should start the machine as if you had a load in it and start to watch for the leak.

WARNING- Make sure you have no tools laying in the machine and you are out of the way. There are spinning parts and live wires once you turn the machine on.
Stay clear, and watch your hair and hands.

Once the machine is full and starts its cycle, look for leaks.
Let the machine do its cycle and as it goes into each part of the cycle, look for the leak.
Once you find a drip, stop the machine by lifting the lid or pulling out on the control knob, and now observe more closely.
Remember, water runs down; where it drips is not necessarily the place of origin.

6 Find the leak and make the needed adjustment (which will be all that is necessary most of the time).
If it is a part you need, get the make, model number and serial number of the washer and call an appliance parts dealer or repair service if you don't think you can repair the problem.



If the washing machine leaks water while it is filling, pull it away from the wall and see if the water drips from the inlet hoses or valves as the unit fills.
If it does, tighten the faucet packing nuts. Then, inspect the hoses and replace them if they have become cracked.
Also look for cracks in the casing of the inlet valves. Unplug the unit and lift the top to better inspect the valves.

Replace any valves that are cracked.

Valves usually crack when the hot water in the house water supply is heated to greater than 170 degrees.
They also crack if the house is left cold during the water and water is not drained from the unit. A cracked inlet nozzle can leak during fill.
The leaking water will drip down the outside of the tub and collect under the unit. Be sure that the hose connected to the inlet nozzle is tightly clamped.
Replace the nozzle if you find cracks in it.

If the leaking occurs at some time during the wash sequence other than when the machine is filling with water, unplug the unit, remove the back panel and examine the parts under the machine.
You can make a closer inspection by tipping the unit over onto it's front or side.

Tighten hose clamps that have become loose. If water is leaking from the pump, replace the pump.

The gasket between the tub and the splash guard may wear out and leak. To check the gasket, lift the top and remove the snubber and splash guard.
Replace a worn gasket. A hole in the bottom of the tub can develop.
If the hole is less than 1/4 inch in diameter, remove the agitator and basket and seal the hole.
If the hole is larger, replace the washing machine or tub.




Thanks for using FixYa - a 4 THUMBS rating is appreciated for answering your FREE question

Jul 31, 2009 | Whirlpool Duet GHW9150P Front Load Washer

1 Answer

Water level issues on the Whirlpool washer.


It's overfilling If your washer is overfilling, check these:

Water-inlet valve
Water-level switch
Water-inlet valve A defect in the water-inlet valve may mean that it's no longer able to shut off completely when the electricity has been turned off to it. If this occurs, the valve may leak and drip water into the clothes tub. In time, the water may accumulate substantially. If this happens, you need to replace the valve.

Water-level switch A defect--or an obstruction--in the water-level switch may mean that it can't tell the water to shut off. So the machine overflows. This switch senses the water level in the clothes tub. It's usually a diaphragm device with a small, clear tube attached between the switch and the bottom of the washer's outer tub. As the water level in the tub increases, the pressure on the air in the tube increases. When the pressure reaches a certain level, it activates the switch, shuts off the water, and signals the timer to begin the agitate cycle. You can either clear any obstruction in the tube or replace the water-level switch.

It's underfilling The water-level switch regulates your washer's fill volume. This switch is usually a diaphragm device with a small, clear tube attached between the switch and the bottom of the washer's outer tub. As the water level in the tub increases, the pressure on the air in the tube increases. When the pressure reaches a certain level, it activates the switch, shuts off the water, and signals the timer to begin the agitate cycle. If the switch is defective, it may prematurely signal the water to shut off. If so, you probably need to replace the water-level switch.

The water temperature is incorrect The temperature of the incoming water determines the temperature of the water in your washer. You get either hot, cold, or a mix of the hot and cold water that's currently available to the machine. So if the cold water that enters the machine is very cold--or if the hot water entering the machine is very hot--the warm water is affected. 

If you live in a Northern climate, unless you adjust the hot and cold water taps that supply water to your washer, the warm water supplied to your washer is usually hotter during the summer months and colder during the winter months.

May 08, 2009 | Washing Machines

1 Answer

Eaton Viking Duo Wash is Leaking


1. Find out where the leak is coming from. Does it leak constantly or during one part of the cycle?
A constant leak means the leak is in the valve where the hoses hook to the washer, the supply valves, or the lines to the washer from the water supply.
The other two options are when the washer is agitating or pumping the water out between cycles.


2. See if it leaks during both cycles and the test there would be to lift the lid just as it starts to drain and wait to see if the water stops leaking.
If it doesn't, then run the drain cycle to see if it gets worse or better.
Results may not be immediate as it would take a few minutes for whatever water there to finish dripping.


3. Wait until the water has been pumped out, lift the lid and check the drip again.
When the location of the leak has been determined, unless the washer has been frozen, most leaks can be fixed without parts and just using hand tools.
If you have an older, top load washer, the back or front will come off so you can observe where the leak is coming from.

WARNING. You are working with a moving, electrically hot machine that could flood.
You must take your time and not put your hand or hair in somewhere that can catch you.
You should not have to get into the upper control center, thus reducing the shock hazard.

4. Before turning the machine on, remove a cover. On some washers, there are two screws on the bottom L & R front corners that take the front panel loose.
Once the screws are removed, the front cover is hinged at the top and you simply pull the bottom away from the machine until it comes un-hooked, and set the cover aside.

There shouldn't be many exposed wires or ends, but a few. Don't touch the terminals or lay something metal in the machine that could fall on the terminals.


5. Take a flashlight, look for obvious leaks or better, water stains around nuts, hose clamps, etc.
Most likely you'll see some water residue here and there and that would be normal as a washer is wet. Look for puddles, long white streaks, calcium deposits.
Most likely, you won't find standing water, but some clues of where you should look when the machine is running.
Unless this leak is so obivous you can see what's wrong, you don't need to start it and you should repair the problem.
Once possible areas have been identified, you should start the machine as if you had a load in it and start to watch for the leak.

WARNING- Make sure you have no tools laying in the machine and you are out of the way. There are spinning parts and live wires once you turn the machine on.
Stay clear, and watch your hair and hands.

Once the machine is full and starts its cycle, look for leaks.
Let the machine do its cycle and as it goes into each part of the cycle, look for the leak.
Once you find a drip, stop the machine by lifting the lid or pulling out on the control knob, and now observe more closely.
Remember, water runs down; where it drips is not necessarily the place of origin.

6 Find the leak and make the needed adjustment (which will be all that is necessary most of the time).
If it is a part you need, get the make, model number and serial number of the washer and call an appliance parts dealer or repair service if you don't think you can repair the problem.



If the washing machine leaks water while it is filling, pull it away from the wall and see if the water drips from the inlet hoses or valves as the unit fills.
If it does, tighten the faucet packing nuts. Then, inspect the hoses and replace them if they have become cracked.
Also look for cracks in the casing of the inlet valves. Unplug the unit and lift the top to better inspect the valves.

Replace any valves that are cracked.

Valves usually crack when the hot water in the house water supply is heated to greater than 170 degrees.
They also crack if the house is left cold during the water and water is not drained from the unit. A cracked inlet nozzle can leak during fill.
The leaking water will drip down the outside of the tub and collect under the unit. Be sure that the hose connected to the inlet nozzle is tightly clamped.
Replace the nozzle if you find cracks in it.

If the leaking occurs at some time during the wash sequence other than when the machine is filling with water, unplug the unit, remove the back panel and examine the parts under the machine.
You can make a closer inspection by tipping the unit over onto it's front or side.

Tighten hose clamps that have become loose. If water is leaking from the pump, replace the pump.

The gasket between the tub and the splash guard may wear out and leak. To check the gasket, lift the top and remove the snubber and splash guard.
Replace a worn gasket. A hole in the bottom of the tub can develop.
If the hole is less than 1/4 inch in diameter, remove the agitator and basket and seal the hole.
If the hole is larger, replace the washing machine or tub.




Thanks for using FixYa - a 4 THUMBS rating is appreciated for answering your FREE question

Mar 28, 2009 | Washing Machines

1 Answer

Leak from maytag top load coin machine during spin drain cycle only


Possible that you would have a tub seal leak if it is only noticable during spin cycle. Possible that it "drips" slightly while in agitation, but not enough to notice it. While in spin mode you have a lot more parts moving as well as a lot more water pressure on the seal itself. Pump could also be leaking, but highly doubtful since it would leak a constant amount at all times. Good Luck!!! Jim

Sep 07, 2007 | Maytag MAT13MN Top Load Washer

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