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Serger blade is dull

My serger is no longer cutting through fabric properly, especially light-weight or knit - it just sort of pulls. I had the blade adjusted about 15 years ago - lowered slightly, if I recall correctly. Do I need to replace the blade or can I adjust it once again? If I need to replace it is this something I can do myself? It is a Singer Ultralock purchased in 1989.

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You blade definitely needs replacing. It is something that you could probably do yourself if you paid very close attention to the position of the current blade before removing it and get the new blade lined up exactly the same way. That is the best place to start. Then very carefully turn the hand wheel by hand while the machine is unthreaded. You could even place a piece of fabric under the foot and see if the knife is going to cut the fabric. If all is well and there is no grinding or hitting, you should be good to go.

Posted on Feb 12, 2009

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My hobbylock 784-786 serger blade won't cut fabric, it just jams up.


The blade is most likely dull or nicked. Usually, one blade can be changed by the user. The other blade needs to be done by a technician because it requires some technical knowledge.

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How do I set my Bernette 334D to overlock thin T-shirt material?


Thin, light-weight fabrics present some issues with sergers, ie the fabric tunnels with the stitching. Usually, it is better to use a narrow seam. Also, a stabilizer (wash-away) or even adding a strip of thin paper (toilet tissue, adding machine tape, etc) to the seam will help the fabric hold its shape when stitching. I have also sprayed & ironed heavy starch on thin fabrics to help stabilize.

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Correct settings for 804dsp serger to sew a sweater.


Are you wanting to use the serger to sew a hand knitted sweater together? or do you mean a sweat shirt knit or other knit fabric. If it is the first option, I'd say don't bother, as you can't do it with the blades working because it will cut your knitting and the wool will unravel in the seams.

If it is the second option then I would start with the following settings.

Four thread stitch, so both needles and the upper and lower loopers threaded. Set tension on all four dials to 5, stitch length to between 2 and 3, and differential on zero. Move the cutting blade over to the right for a wider seam. Now test stitch on some fabric scraps double layer and see what the seam is looking like.

Now you want to adjust a couple of things: firstly width of the seam. Is it the size you want? If you'd like it a little narrower, then adjust the cutting blade back a little to the left to narrow the seam slightly - just depends on the fabric weight. For example if it is a loose open weave like boucle you would want a wide seam to make sure it holds the fibres fully.

Now you can adjust the upper and lower loopers to get the thread wrapping around the edge looking nice. Look at the seam and the fabric inside it. Is it tunnelling and pulling up the fabric? if so, release tension on both loopers a half number to put more thread into the seam. Test stitch again and see if the loopers are meeting nicely on the cut edge of the fabric. Upper and lower looper threads should be meeting right on the cut edge so if this isn't happening and one showing on the other side, then tighten the looser one by half a number and test again.

If the threads are hanging off the edge then you have the choice of moving the blade to the right to cut less fabric off, or tightening up the looper tensions to pull in the thread.

That's it, hope this helps you to master your serger.

If you'd like some images and further explanations of other stitching you can do with your overlocker, then Debbie Coswell has some great information on line at www.sewing.about.com, just search "overlocker" to find the specific pages.


Good luck

Oct 11, 2011 | Simplicity Serge Pro SW432 Mechanical...

1 Answer

When sewing with the brother serger 1034d, loops of thread stick out beyond the fabric-it is not nice and close like it's supposed to be. the settings from left to right are: 4,4,3,3. this is what my...


Can you wind the lower cutting blade to the right to cut less fabric and therefore fill out the stitching? On most sergers the lower blade position can be adjusted sometimes with a little knob or dial. You need to raise the top blade out of the way first, usually you put pressure onto it to release the spring holding it up against the lower blade, then swing it up to do this. Then wind the adjustment on the lower blade and move it to the right to cut less fabric then test serge. Your manual should give you more specific information on this and should be your first 'go to".

I would adjust my looper tensions to suit the fabric and width of the stitch I'm trying to achieve so yes, the settings you've been given are average tensions but its okay to vary these too. From left to right, I'd set 4, 4, 4, 4 and test serge again and see if this pulls the looper threads in against the fabric if moving the blade hasn't tightened up the stitching.

Sergers are more variable than a straight stitch sewing machine so its okay to move tension knobs a bit, just turn each a half number each time you adjust, then test serge and look at the stitch formation. Your needles tension should be fine at 4, leave them alone.

I'd suggest if you can find one, go to a "Getting to know your serger" type class as there is lots of techniques such as seaming on a curve, turning right angles, both inside and outside and making rolled hem edges that are very helpful serger skills to learn along with making adjustments and troubleshooting. Or go to you-tube and search some of these techniques for videos. Also www.sewing.about.com is a great sewing resource and Debbie has pages on sergers/overlockers here too.

When I'm starting a new dressmaking project I will spend 10 mins on the overlocker/serger, changing the thread colour to suit the garment, then test serging and adjusting the stitch tensions to suit the fabric. I have 4 cones of thread each in white, black, beige, grey, pink and pale blue and these threads will give a suitable finish on most fabric colours and prints. Then there is wooly overlocker thread, this is a fluffy thread that you can use for rolled hems as the thread relaxes once stitched and "fills" out the closely stitched edge covering the rolled fabric edge and is another whole area of fun to try out.

Often I'll just use a three thread to neaten the raw edges of a seam I will press open. Or I will assemble a whole knit garment using the four thread stitch, so much faster then stitching seams, then neatening. Jersey knits and sergers are made for each other.

As an aside the D on your machine model would denote "differential feed" too - briefly differential feed is adjusting the amount that the two feed dogs move under the foot and means you can "hold back" the fabric as it is stitched (0.5), or "stretch" it out (1.5 or 2 setting). Really handy for loose weave fabrics that stretch as you serge them, you can compensate using the differential feed setting. And in reverse, you can create a "lettuce" or wavy edge by turning the differential feed up.

I hope that this helps you out with your Brother 1034D and hasn't just confused you. Good luck.

Aug 01, 2011 | Brother 1034D Mechanical Sewing Machine

1 Answer

How do I change the stitch width on my Bernette serger?


You move the top blade to the right to trim less so stitch forms wider and use left needle. Or both needles for 4thread seam which is more for knits. Blade has a knob usually to adjust it's position. You should test on scraps of your fabric as the weight of the fabric will also determine width of the seam. Adjust top and bottom looper tensions to encase cut edge neatly.

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1 Answer

Brother 1034D serger is not cutting and is binding up


This problem is usually when the lower blade drops below the sewing plate. Look at the blade in relation to the plate and see if it has dropped below the plate, then you can reset the blade. If it is not the upper blade may be too dull to cut so it will need to be replaced.

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1 Answer

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For now, it works only satisfactorily:
I applied alcohol to further clean both blades,
dried and then oiled them. There seemed to be a slight gap between blades;
the fabric was dragged into the gap instead of being cut.

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1 Answer

I have a juki mo-3614 serger and I can't seem to get the blades lined up right for cutting. It just seems to want to roll the fabric instead of cut it. How do I line up the blades the right way.


first, pull out the bvlades and make surte they are sharp. It could simply be that they are dull. Next, line tyhe bottom blade up level to the surface of the needle plate. The top blade should be adjusted to where it slices against the botom blade. You may have to experiment with the height adjustment on the top blade, assuming you have a suitable cutting edge.

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1 Answer

My viking serger 905 wont cut


Sometimes the blades need to be adjusted. Lower them all the way manually to the bottom. The cutters if you look on the side should meet. If they don't' meet or if there is a small space then the upper cutter needs to be lowered.
There are screws that hold this in place. You might need a man to help since the screws on my machine are very tight!

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Turn under the edge just about 1/4" and do a rolled edge then you can go back and trim off any of the folded under fabric that may show. Also, this keeps the hem from pulling away so easily. You may also try putting some water soluble stabilizer under the fabric before you serge.

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