Question about Acer AL1716 17" LCD Monitor

17 Answers

AL 1716 LCD monitor has no power when plugged in.

Hello everyone i have a Acer 17 inch monitor that when plugged shows no power what so ever. The typical green light for power does not even show nor do the switches to turn it on work. I have completely taking apart the monitor to see if i could at least find a bad resistor or capacitor. I would appreciate any advice as to where should i start making judgment if the main 450v capacitor is receiving power tested by a mulitmeter?Acer 1716b monitor that won't power up. A capacitor had shorted to the ribbon cable to the display. I repaired the ribbon but unit will not fire up. Main fuse is OK.Checked othe surface mount fuses (without lifting them) but cannot find F101. There are other fuses marked FB102 up to 8 I think buut they seem ok.
Unit still won't fire up.
Any help would be appreciated

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  • 15 more comments 
  • daffyaffy Feb 10, 2009

    Thanks. All connections seem O.K. and I tested AC/DC bridge. I still cannot find F101 fuse and monitor will not fire up?

  • daffyaffy Feb 10, 2009

    Tried two working power cords in two different outlets of course. The problem is not that simple. The capacitor that had shorted to the ribbon cable (+tive side of cap)was cap No.C818 That cap tests O.K. as does the resistor attached. All caps look O.K. with no swollen tops.

  • daffyaffy Feb 10, 2009

    There is a fuse on the main board marked F501 (tiny surface mount) It is a blue color as opposed to the rest which are all black and a bit smaller than this blue one. It tests OK in circuit. Do they turn blue when they blow? I'm not used to surface mount components.

  • daffyaffy Feb 10, 2009

    AS per forst post the main fuse is O.K. tested out of circuit)

  • daffyaffy Feb 10, 2009

    yavier...Which board is the inverter board? Is that the one with the main fuse F801? or the smaller board?

  • daffyaffy Feb 10, 2009

    It is almost impossible to apply power to these circuits while out of the case as the switch is on one board (on case) then the main power suppy board then the next board and then the LCD screen all attached by cables.

  • daffyaffy Feb 10, 2009

    Yes of course the power in the wall is correct 125volt on a 15 amp circuit..tried two circuits.
    The fault is not that easy I assure you.

  • daffyaffy Feb 10, 2009

    I had hoped not to have to spend anymore on this unit. If you can't help, perhaps I should sell it for parts on E-Bay as the screen is 99% perfect.

  • daffyaffy Feb 10, 2009

    The inverter board then is the larger board the one that connects to the A.C and also has the connectors for the flourescent lights attached.As I asked before could the small fuse marked F501 which is about 3mm long and 2mm wide 1mm thick be at fault as it is a bluish colour though doesn't look burned??

  • daffyaffy Feb 10, 2009

    Where is the fuse F101?? I cannot find this fuse on either board! The main fuse is F108. There is another fuse on that board numbered F105 (it's blue). On the other board the fuses are numbered FB 102 to FB 108 ( I'm assuming the B is for board "b" but there is NO F101 !

  • daffyaffy Feb 10, 2009

    The power button circuit doe not have any resistors on it only the switches and an led (green/yellow).
    The Led and switches are o.k.

  • daffyaffy Feb 10, 2009

    I powered up the main board (without anything else attached and trace voltages to an IC on a heat sink. It resembles a power transistor ( I know, what's a transistor) but it has six pins on it. On the board it is listed as IC802 and appears to be the regulator? Pins 3 and 5 don't seem to have any voltages??

  • daffyaffy Feb 10, 2009

    Really! I should junk it? Go on! You're kidding right?

  • daffyaffy Feb 10, 2009

    SO WHERE IS THE PART NUMBERED F101???????

  • daffyaffy Feb 10, 2009

    Hello!

  • daffyaffy Feb 10, 2009

    So I found F101. It seems to be blown but when I short out the fuse the monitor will still not turn on. Guess it is junk and I wasted $9.95
    Thanks anyway


  • daffyaffy Feb 10, 2009

    The fuse is about half that size and it is on the board where the ribbon cable enters the LCD Display. Go figure?

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17 Answers

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  • Acer Master
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Most likely the main board is toast, it will be cheaper to replace it than repair it of that I am sure.

Posted on Feb 10, 2009

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The fuse inquestion is 3mm x 2mm x 1mm in size aprox, its found on the solder side of inverter board (f101) and its white ceramic with silver ends brick shaped with 6.5 stamped on it.

Thanks for using FixYa - a FixYa rating is appreciated!!

Posted on Feb 10, 2009

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The parts marked FB are ferrite beads and are there to prevent high frequency interference. The fuses should be marked Fxxx only. There are a number of reasons for no power. Some of the entries here have the right idea, the problem is that these types of supplies are difficult to repair even when you are experienced and have the unit at hand. Your best bet is to have this loked at by a service center. This is not likely to be diagnosed remotely.

Dan

Posted on Feb 10, 2009

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It would be cheaper to buy another monitor than to try to fix that one,,i ould go to walmart and pick up a new one and let the old one go. its also alo more frustrating to try to fix the old one that when you can get a new one pretty cheap

Posted on Feb 10, 2009

  • Ronnie Houston Feb 10, 2009

    i wish i would have been able to help more but my only solution was to buy a new monitor.thats one way you will know it will work and last several years

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This may or may not be the case. But i have had some of the tiny chipsets or micro fuses on the power button circuite board pop. You can tell if you use a magnifying glass and you will see them fried and little cute burn marks that arent so cute once you realize, its something you cant replace.

The little tiny micro resistors on the board will pop and once thats it, its just cheaper and less time spent buying a new one or going to a pawn shop now that the economy is in bad shape.

Posted on Feb 10, 2009

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Check the Fuse F101, 2 black fuses located near CN101.
I suggest you also replace C123 because it's a feedback cap.
And check for cold solder connections as well.

Posted on Feb 10, 2009

  • Randy Hough
    Randy Hough Feb 10, 2009


    1. Defective inverter on the board of BP + Inverter (DAC-12M028A REV: 0F)

    2. Burned U202 P605 (CP)

    3. Short-circuiting between the 19 and 20 circuits IC200 OZ964GN

    4. Defective inverter board (P / N: 3BS0101313GP REV: 1)

    5. Defective U1 MP1038EY

    6. Short-circuiting on the +5 V on the TFT panel board (PCB MT170EN01 C2-C).
      Close legs connector CN101 on the sleeve, soldered to the mass.

    7. Defective chip EEPROM U108 24C04W

    8. Defective transistor assembly U501 AOP605 short 1-2 findings (n-channel S2-G2).

    9. Defective TFT panel M170EG01 VA

    10. C22; C33; C32 (resistance) 21R, defective fuse F1 (cliff), C23 (CP)

    11. Defective C31 (CP).

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Your inverter has gone bad this should be the smaller board which connects to the AC.

Posted on Feb 10, 2009

  • machadojr_fe Feb 10, 2009

    Yes it could be bad and still have an output when they blow they turn blue and sometimes black or grey. If it is cloudy it is also an indication of a blown fuse.

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Check to see if there is the correct amount of power running through the jack in the wall.

Posted on Feb 10, 2009

  • sylus16 Feb 10, 2009

    if none of these work, I suggest getting a new monitor.

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  • Master
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Hi and welcome to FixYa,

I am inclined to suspect that your described problem is limited in the primary/hotside. Even if DCV was measured in the mains capacitor, this DCV would have to feed the DC to DC converter which should be working even partially producing a "housekeeping"/standby voltage, normally +5 in the secondary. If this +5 is absent, then it would most likely be a fault in the chopper circuitry. The most common fault would be the FET/STR attached to a heatsink. Some other possible faults are resistors that have opened. Faulty capacitors are rather easy to determine. There would be physical manifestations such as bulging top, blistered casing, brownish paper bits, oil leak at the bottom, powder substance on any of the pins, popped off rubber bottom. In most designs there would be a 4 pin IC looking optocoupler as well as a 16 pin controller IC. You need to determine the absence/presence of voltages on these pins. Based on your measurements, you could then trace the cause for the absence of voltages.

Incidentally, there would be no 450VDC on the main capacitor, not unless your multimeter is set to ACV and not DCV. Depending on where you are, inputs would be 120, 220 or 240 VAC. None of which would be able to produce the measure 450.

Good luck and thank you for using FixYa.

Posted on Feb 10, 2009

  • Louie  Role
    Louie Role Feb 10, 2009

    Alternately, if the measured 450 is DCV, then it would only confirm that the primary side/chopper is not working. The circuitry is not loading the capacitor and hence it charged to maximum rating.

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Since it's a switching power supply Make sure all the three fuses are Okay ands caps are swollen, that means caps are weak, leak or defective Try to change all caps then also the regulator IC.
Fuses are F101, 2 black fuses near CN101.
you can replace C123 because it's a feedback caps.

Posted on Feb 10, 2009

  • 2 more comments 
  • Starnley Johnwells
    Starnley Johnwells Feb 10, 2009

    the regulator ic is 3pin transistor that top a heatsink.that is a regulator ic.
    before you replace it you can check how much voltage test the big capacitor drains..


  • Starnley Johnwells
    Starnley Johnwells Feb 11, 2009

    replace the fuse and check the capacitors close to the regulator ic if possible replace after comfirmation

  • Starnley Johnwells
    Starnley Johnwells Feb 11, 2009

    Capacitors have many functions depending upon the circuit. Perhaps the
    most common circuit where a bad cap will be a major problem is the
    power supply. Since these store charges, they are used to smooth out
    the DC current generated from AC power.before replacement check all the joints for losse ends resolder the joints

  • Starnley Johnwells
    Starnley Johnwells Feb 11, 2009

    also check voltage at pin no 1 of the ic dc which should be approx input volt
    if not then clear the path if present then check up down volt at
    pin no 3 if not persent then replace the small capacitor near

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Use a volt meter and test a few of the boards to see where the power is and where it ends, or to see if there is any power running through the boards. Where ever the power stops is where the problem is and that part will need to be replaced. Also check for any more cracked or busted fuses or capacitors you may have missed.

Posted on Feb 10, 2009

  • Jazz Boyce
    Jazz Boyce Feb 10, 2009

    Well, check that fuse and see if it is cracked or if the metal on the inside has parted from each other. If it has, then you will need a new fuse, but it might just be blue to identify different voltages.

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The fuse inquestion is 3mm x 2mm x 1mm in size aprox, its found on the solder side of inverter board (f101) and its white ceramic with silver ends brick shaped with 6.5 stamped on it. its also possible that the fuse is blowned out and got slightly bursted.as the problem which you mentioned is also related to circuit gettiong short in the power supply so the led is not comming up.

Posted on Feb 10, 2009

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Hi..the main reason to this problem is the trigger
volt.check whether the trigger volt is 5 volts which
is the default.you should check this volt from the
smps.This could be the reason that would have led
to the damage.
try this out..
thank u..

Posted on Feb 10, 2009

  • 1 more comment 
  • Hariharanath V Feb 10, 2009

    hi..then it is some type of major problem in the board

    itself.

    check it out..

    thanks..

  • Hariharanath V Feb 10, 2009

    hi..yes it does.check it completely.

    thanks..

  • Hariharanath V Feb 10, 2009

    hi..yes it does.check it completely.

    thanks..

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Check ther e 1 5 amp fuse conducotr on circuit change it.

Posted on Feb 10, 2009

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  • 153 Answers

The product wil last very low period of time and u need to find tat F101
fuse tat wil be gone for sure sheck that properly u wil find it near by to tat other fuse

Posted on Feb 10, 2009

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  • Acer Master
  • 19,396 Answers

Check the power cord and test on a different outlet, this is more likely a faulty power board on your monitor.

Posted on Feb 10, 2009

  • 2 more comments 
  • Ginko
    Ginko Feb 10, 2009

    The inverter board is the small AC power board that powers up the back light, and in your case, if you have no power at all , it is not the inverter board.

    I do not know if I have schematics for this chassis, but you should get the service manual with complete diagrams. You can get it here: Manualzone



  • Ginko
    Ginko Feb 10, 2009

    The inverter board is the one that powers up the backlight, an inverter is a board that taves in DC power (5V in your monitor) and returns variable AC power to power up the lamp as an output. Sometimes it is integrated with power board.
    When the inverter is faulty, monitor led still does come on.

    If the monitor has no power at all , then you need to replace or Fix the PSU board, that is the one hooking to AC power.

    I think you really need to buy a repair manual, when you repair electronics you need to know what you are doing.

    Buy the manual and then get back to us: Manualzone



  • Ginko
    Ginko Feb 10, 2009

    One last hint,

    not all experts are giving out good info, some of them is completely wrong.

    Commenting in here there are no more than 2 or three experts that know how to fix a monitor, the others are just trying to help, but often they are wrong.

    Said that I will leave, this thread is too much confused and I feel I cannot help with so many posters giving out wrong information.


  • Ginko
    Ginko Feb 10, 2009

    To know if a fuse has blown you need to use a multimeter, like this one: Multimeter

    You set the mutimeter to impedance (ohm) and connect the two tips of multimeter to the two resistor contacts.

    If the mutimeter reads proper resistance value, then resistor is good, if the multimeter reads infinite, then the resistor has blown.

    If you have not even used a multimeter before you should not take apart a monitor.

    Keep power cord unplugged whenever you work on the monitor.


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Check out for any loose soldering of all the components on the circuit board.dry solder whole board and check out.

Posted on Feb 10, 2009

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1 Answer

Is Acer 1717 Display board and Acer 1716 board are the same? I need a replace ro my Acer 1717.. But there are no boards available.. But Acer 1716 boards are available.. Someone help.. Thanks a lot...


There are more than one version of the AL1717, also more than one version of the AL1716.
See my pictures here:
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See if they match your monitor.

Best thing to do is to get the numbers as printed on the board and Google it.

Basic LCD monitor and TV troubleshooting guide:
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http://www.fixya.com/support/r5093881-lcd_flat_panel_tv_troubleshooting_guide
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Learn about bad caps: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Capacitor_plague

Capacitors kit: http://lcdalternatives.auctivacommerce.com/ he can make you a set of caps for you.
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Poor sync looks more like what you are describing. The picture will flip vertically and horizontally.

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Best regards,
Rosener Guyano

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