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Re: GE 1095 loud humming noise when turned on to cook
Assuming your inside light and turntable come on when you try to microwave, I would most strongly suspect a shorted high voltage rectifier
diode or a bad magnetron, or a loose and possibly corroded connection on the magnetron's terminal.
If you or someone you
decide to look into it, we have critical safety information and
disassembly information at our site, and our link is at our listing here on FixYa.
should be a "mini-manual" (tech sheet) hidden inside the unit
control panel or hidden on the left side behind the grille, which is
very helpful when troubleshooting, testing, and locating components.
our Web site, we have a video
available showing how to remove a typical
over the range control panel assembly in under 5 minutes.
Here are some links you
or someone you know can use for test help, but read their safety
If it's within the magnetron portion of the warranty (5-9 years)
but out of the original full warranty (1 year), G.E. will cover the part cost, but not the cost to visit you or
the labor charge to do the work.
Sometimes they will
send you the magnetron to do it yourself.
If nothing else, you
can save about $50-75 if you remove it from the wall and take it to a
You can find a
GE-authorized servicer by calling GE Appliance
Service at 1-800-848-7620 or here.
Accessing some components for testing and possible replacement will require you to remove the oven from the wall.
so, the installation instructions are very handy, and it's best to have
two people since the microwave can be heavy and awkward.
You can download GE
owner's manuals and installation instructions here.
to help you with free advice and we'd appreciate your thoughtful rating
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microwave is emanating high pitched or growling noises during operation,
the magnetron could be going bad. Normally a nearly silent part, the
magnetron uses high voltage and induces the frequency required to cook
food. Although normally not a safety hazard to operate, this is a sign
that the magnetron is failing and will need to be replaced as soon as
Exhaust fan motorIf
your microwave is making a very loud humming noise during operation, it
could possibly be the exhaust fan motor. If defective the part will need
to be replaced to silence the appliance once more.
leading cause of a noisy microwave is an expired stirrer motor. With use
this part becomes worn and makes a loud grinding noise, which is
usually a leading indicator that the part needs to be replaced. The
stirrer is a metal blade that is slowly turned by the motor. This action
disperses the microwave energy in a random pattern, which heats the
food evenly. If the stirrer motor is determined to be nearing
expiration, it should be replaced to halt the grinding noise.
Turntable motorA very
common cause for a noisy microwave is a worn out turntable motor. This
is a relatively easy repair and will put an end to the noise once
The noise filter is to block electrical noise, not auditory noise. "Noise" in electronics means any unwanted or unintended electrical signal.
The purpose of the noise filter is to help prevent any electrical noise generated in the wiring of the microwave from getting into your house wiring, which could cause interference with or disruption of other devices.
If your microwave is making auditory noise, then it may be a loose cover or panel, a rubber bumper fell off the high voltage transformer, or one of the components is failing.
A loud buzz, hum, or groan is usually a
shorted high voltage rectifier diode, but a sound like gurgling into an
empty coffee mug is one symptom of a failed magnetron, and yet the magnetron can
be bad without that sound.
If either of those two were bad, it would not cook.
From your description it appears that the Magnetron has failed on your microwave.
*Please be aware* Replacing the Magnetron in a Microwave is a highly specialist job and should not be carried out by an unqualified person. Microwaves carry lethal levels of voltage even after they have been unplugged from the mains supply. The high voltage circuitry in this area of the oven is extremely dangerous and must undergo a discharging process before work can commence. The Magnetron itself is the main 'engine' of the microwave and operates under extremely high voltages.
For this reason I strongly urge you not to attempt this repair yourself but have it carried out by an electronics repair shop. The cost of this is likely to be prohibitive and you will need to weigh up whether this repair is economically viable or whether you would be better to replace the unit altogether.
You either have a bad magnetron tube (5 or 10 year parts warranty item through GE Factory Service 1-800-432-2737 or www.geappliances.com) or a shorted high voltage rectifier. I think the light being out is a secondary problem.
When talking about "Power Level", there is a misconception that the cooking power is being adjusted. This is not the case. The user is actually adjusting the duty cycle of the Magnetron. For instance at 30%, the Magnetron will be turned on for 20 sec. and off for 40 sec. A loud 60 cycle hum is usually caused by a shorted Magnetron. Thus the unit is not economically repairable.
Generally, the most common causes of a failure to heat are:
- bad door switches or door switch mounts - loose connection at the magnetron - problem or loose conneciton on the control unit circuit board - bad magnetron or other high voltage part
If you or a friend decide to look into it, we have critical safety information, info on door switch diagnosis and replacement, and disassembly information at our site, linked here on Fixya: http://tinyurl.com/yzjozk
Sounds like you just fried your magnetron. Normally when they go bad, they make a very loud noise like what you described. The smell concerns me because you may have ruined the waveguide as well. If the magnetron burns through the protective painted surface of the waveguide, the waveguide is ruined. In most microwave ovens this means replacing the entire unit because the waveguide is not replaceable. Putting a new magnetron in a damaged waveguide will result in the same arcing and eventual failure. In addition to the magnetron, the following components are part of the same high voltage network:
Magnetron Thermal Cut-Out
Any one of these components could have also been damaged. I DO NOT recommend taking any voltage measurements inside the HV network. Potentials of over 4000 volts can be reached and make it very dangerous for the do-it-yourselfer. Taking resistance readings with the unit unplugged is strongly encouraged. If you decide to pursue a repair, inspect the magnetron tip and inside of the waveguide first. If the magnetron is melted and/or there are burn marks inside the waveguide, a new microwave may be a in order. This actually may be a better option than an expensive repair. I hope you find this advice helpful.