Question about Whirlpool Ultimate Care II LSQ9549L Top Load Washer

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Getting the plate of the gearcase of UlimateCare2 Model#LSB6300PW

I want to get inside the gearcase to see what is wrong with the transmission? I remove all the screws on the plate but it does not come apart. Do you need to remove the drive shaft first? If so how is that done?

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  • scott_san786 Feb 12, 2009

    Yes there is yellow/orange and sticky oil and I have checked everything else on the machine. The spin cycle does not work right sometimes it spins sometimes it does not.

  • scott_san786 Feb 12, 2009

    March 31 2005

  • scott_san786 Feb 12, 2009


  • scott_san786 Feb 12, 2009

    I have a repairman coming tomorrow and all I have to pay for is the labor about 50 bucks. Thanks anyway.

  • robert samples May 11, 2010

    when did you purchase the washer ?

  • robert samples May 11, 2010

    what makes you thing you got a tranny promblem is there oil under the machine



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Ok there is a five year parts warranty on your tranny but you have to use a services who is auth to take advantage of this now the labor comes out about the same as the cost of tran-ny or less but you don't have to mess with it to find an authorized servicer go to Whirlpool web site and under find service or cusst support enter your zip get a list to choose from hows that

Posted on Feb 12, 2009

  • robert samples Feb 12, 2009

    look if you want to fool with it yerself can help there too



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Kenmore 110.26492502 top load washing machine is leaking oil (yellowish with black). any chance, as a DIY-er,i can solve this? its turning 5 years old already... thanks! rex

This assumes that you have a basic Kenmore / Whirlpool top load, direct drive, neutral drain (it doesn't spin until the pump removes most of the water) machine.

First, see the Sears parts site for your washer:

The model number you provided doesn't appear on the Sears site. Are you sure it's the right number??

Enter your model number (110.#######) and you'll see a list of major sub-components with diagrams and parts.

Pulling the cabinet, pump, motor and gearcase are relatively easy. Getting the 8 bolts off of the gearcase and removing the top can get a bit messy as the gearcase holds 15 Oz. of gear oil. (Easily replaced with non-detergent gear oil from a local auto parts shop.

This is a Whirlpool / kenmore Serviced Manual PDF for top load, direct drive washers:$FILE/L-55.pdf

It also has a troubleshooting guide.

See the Following Whirlpool parts list for alternatives to the Sears part numbers.

In order to get the transmission out, you have to remove the cabinet, the fabric dispenser and both agitators. The top agitator uses a plastic 1/2" drive bolt (a 1/2" socket extension works well).

You don't have to remove the drum. See the following:

Lay the machine down (after disconnectYing power and hoses, remove the pump (two clips), the motor (two screws hold two clips on the motor), lift and set the motor aside.

Remove two 1/2 inch bolts for the motor mounting plate and three 1/2 inch bolts for the transmission.

Pull the transmission, remove the clutch (there is a spring clip that holds the clutch on the main agitator shaft), and remove the 8 screws carefully the transmission holds 15Oz of 80-90 weight gear oil.

You should be able to either re-seat the cover or make a thin gasket using automotive "liquid gasket seal" products.

Jan 29, 2011 | Kenmore Washing Machines

1 Answer

My 5-year old Whirlpool LSB6300PW Top Load Washer will fill with water but will not agitate or spin. There is no sound of the motor even trying to do anything. My husband thinks the motor would be making...


I was able to fix a similar problem with the same model washer today so see if any of the following helps you.

First, this model is not belt driven; it has what's called a "direct drive" which could be the source of your problem, as it was for me.

Unlike in your case, our washer made a horrific spinning/clicking sound when it was supposed to be agitating or spinning but it filled and drained like normal, and the horrific noise stopped when the lid was lifted.

Because of those two facts, I discovered it was likely the direct drive coupling, which connects the washer's motor to the transmission.

Turns out, that horrific sound was the sound of one of the couplings spinning uselessly after it broke.

After some internet research, I discovered it was a simple matter of getting and installing the new coupling, which was very easy to do with a little professional help via YouTube.

Here is the website of a parts supplier with great schematics and great prices that I bought the part from.

Good luck!


Jan 09, 2011 | Whirlpool LSB6300PW Top Load Washer

1 Answer

My Kenmore 70 top load washer quit agitating (bottom agitator doesn't move) and there was a griding sound when it quit moving. Is it officially dead?

This assumes that you have a basic Kenmore / Whirlpool top load, direct drive, neutral drain (it doesn't spin until the pump removes most of the water) machine.

First, see the Sears parts site for your washer:

Enter your model number (###.######) and you'll see a list of major sub-components with diagrams and parts.

It isn't necessarily dead and, in fact, if it's a basic top load, direct drive washer, and you are reasonably comfortable with basic hand tools (socket set, pliers etc.) most of these can be fixed for a lot less than a new washer or even a service call.

Next, see the Whirlpool / Kenmore Service Manual for these washers:$FILE/L-55.pdf

Then see the following for how to release the console, remove the cabinet and get to / remove the pump, motor and gearcase. (It's not that difficult)

Also see the following Whirlpool parts list for these washers.


Look in the section for the motor, pump gearcase and you'll see the Motor Coupler.

Kenmore / Whirlpool top load, direct drive washers use a "Motor Coupler" between the motor and transmission.

It's used as a fail safe device and consists of three parts.

Two of the parts are the same, plastic units with three prongs that fit on one of the motor output shafts and the other on the transmission input shaft. Between them is a rubber piece with six holes.

The power from the motor is transmitted through the rubber piece to the transmission.

The other shaft on the motor directly drives the pump.

If the motor coupler is broken, or worn, the motor may not be able to send full power to the transmission for agitating or spinning.

See the following for how to remove the cabinet, pump, motor and motor mounting plate to inspect and replace the motor coupler.

If the coupler looks damaged, it's a relatively easy fix.

Pry the plastic pieces from the motor and transmission. Some people use a claw hammer but I've found that using a small (6 inch) pry bar works well.

Carefully fit the plastic pieces over the motor and transmission shafts and press them in place (Use a 1/2" of larger socket to put pressure equally around the pieces.

Put the rubber piece on the transmission plastic piece.

Replace the motor mounting plate.

Carefully line up the plastic prongs on the motor based plastic piece to the three un-used holes in the rubber piece. If they don't line up right, the coupler could be damaged.

Mount the motor, don't forget the two screws, put the pump back on the motor and use its' clips.

Put the cabinet back on, don't forget to plug the lid switch back in and re-mount the console.


If it's not the coupler it's time to pull the gearcase and look for any obvious problems.

Lay the machine down (after disconnecting power and hoses, remove the pump (two clips), the motor (two screws hold two clips on the motor), lift and set the motor aside.

Remove two 1/2 inch bolts for the motor mounting plate and three 1/2 inch bolts for the transmission.

Pull the transmission, remove the clutch (there is a spring clip that holds the clutch on the main agitator shaft), remove the 8 screws carefully the transmission holds 15Oz of 80-90 weight gear oil, drain the oil and check the parts inside the gearcase against the diagrams in the Whirlpool manuals. You should be able to see if any gears have worn / destroyed themselves.

Also see the following description of how the gearcase works:$FILE/787772%20%234.pdf

As an aside, fixing ours (replacing the agitate cams and neutral drain assembly cost less than $30 (including gear oil from a local auto parts store) vs. a $170 transmission and service calls.

Dec 24, 2010 | Kenmore Washing Machines

1 Answer

My Kenmore Elite, Model # 23022100 is no longer working in the final dry cycle. When I un-hooked lines etc. tiped machine against the wall. Belt appears wore, but there was oil puddle under the trans. Your...

Are you sure you saw a worn belt on your washer? The model number you provided has no drive belt. This model washer is a direct-drive system that uses a motor coupling in place of a drive belt. The most common cause of a no spin problem is either a lid switch malfunction, or a broken motor coupling. The following link explains how to diagnose the problem:

Included are parts resources (if required) and instructions on how to replace each part if needed.

As far as the oil leak is concerned, it depends on how significant the leak is. The gearcase (transmission) contains an amber colored oil. Some of this oil can leak out through a small breather hole on the top of the transmission case. If all you are getting is a small puddle that does not appear to be getting worse, you may continue to use the washer (sometimes for years) with no problems. If the leak is bad, however, it may be time to replace the gearcase. Replacing the gearcase is not a difficult task, but it can take about an hour or two for the inexperienced.

IMPORTANT: The washer needs to remain in the upright position, or you can inadvertantly drain your oil through the breather hole on top of the gearcase. It is okay to tilt the washer back as you described, but DO NOT lay it down.

The following link explains step-by-step how to replace the gearcase:

Read through the link provided to see if this is a repair you feel comfortable with attempting. The average cost of a replacement gearcase is about $150. You can purchase replacements at any of the following websites:

NOTE: Sometimes Sears offers a refurbished gearcase for about half the price of a new one. It will be listed in their parts listing with an "R" after the part number is available.

The first three sites I have listed also include helpful exploded view diagrams to assist you in locating and properly identifing the parts you need. It can also assist you in determing how to assemble or disassemble your appliance. The gearcase is listed as item 9 under the "Brake, Clutch, Gearcase, Motor and Pump" heading.

My advice to you is to read through the links provided and review the symptoms for the lid switch and motor coupling first. If those parts appear to be fine, inspect the interior of the washer by removing the case so you can get a real good look at how bad the leak is. If there is an oil spray pattern all round the interior cabinet walls of the washer, its time to replace the gearcase. If the leak is just a small puddle, clean it up and place a sheet of cardboard under the washer so you can monitor how much it leaks in the future. My experience has been that its not worth the effort to attempt to remove the gearcase and try to reseal it. If you're going to go through the whole process of removing the gearcase, you it would be smarter just to replace it with a new one, rather than possibly having to repeat the process again if sealing it doesn't work.

If the gearcase is still working, does not make any loud or unusual noises and the leak does not appear to get any worse, you may still get some good use out of the washer. Please let me know if you need further assistance. I hope this helps you decide.

NOTE: Here is a view of the mechanical section of your washer, based on the model number you provided:

The motor coupling is listed as item 13. Your gearcase (transmission is listed as item 9.

Apr 08, 2010 | Kenmore Elite Oasis 27052 Top Load Washer

1 Answer

Kenmore washer agitates on spin cycle

Obviously the washer should be either just spinning or agitating. The transmission ,or in this style washer it is called the gearcase, is bad and would need to be replaced. The gearcase controls the spin and the agitate in this washer. The part number is 3360629 and retails for $172.77. To replace; Unplug washer, remove the 2 trim pieces on either side of the console, remove the 2 screws under the trim, lift the console and rotate to the back, remove the 2 retainers going from the back into the cabinet, remove the cabinet, remove the drain pump, remove the motor, remove the agitator, remove the gearcase with 3 bolts holding it on. The gearcase will now slide out of the washer. Transfer the clutch and motor mounting plate to the new gearcase and reassemble in the reverse order.
Thank you

Jan 23, 2010 | Washing Machines

1 Answer

MOdel 110.92579110 leaking water out bottom of

First, see the Sears parts site for your washer:!retrieve.pd?pop=true&modelNumber=110.92579110


See the Sears site sub-components for the agitator, basket and tub. It's possible that one of the gaskets or seals has worn over time.

I'd also pull off the cabinet and check the hoses leading to and from the pump. It's also possible that the pump is leaking.

See the following for how to remove the cabinet.

The illustrations also show how to remove the transmission.


The black oil / fluid that you see is likely coming from the transmission.

Since it seems to be "spraying" around the inside of the cabinet, I'd assume that it is leaking from the top seal between the transmission and clutch.

See the following for a parts breakdown of Whirlpool top load direct drive washers.

If you look at page 15, you'll see a Seal, Gearcase Cover. It is possible that that is the cause of your transmission leak.

The rust on the bottom of the transmission may (hopefully) be simply caused by the water leak.

I'd remove the gearcase cover (8 bolts) in order to check the gearcase cover seal, and to check the oil level. The Whirlpool transmission takes about 15oz or 80-90 weight oil.



Oct 17, 2009 | Kenmore Washing Machines

2 Answers

Kenmore 80 series, model 110-2781690, won't spin or agitate. loud clicking from lower portion of machine. fills & drains ok. transmission failure?

Unfortunately, it sounds like a transmission/gearcase problem, mainly because you stated the motor would run, but would not agitate or spin.

With the motor removed from the gearcase, try to turn the coupler on the gearcase side one way for many turns, and see if your agitator moves back and forth, then turn the coupler on the gearcase the other way many turns to see if the tub starts to move

thank you,

Sep 29, 2009 | Kenmore Washing Machines

3 Answers


To remove the transmission remove the agitator drive block under it then: unbolt the underside frame springs etc. then slide the transmission shaft out
To dissasemble the transmission it'self remove the pin on the top of the drivecase usuing a drift remove the bolts and, slide the transmission case up off the shaft remember to use silicone gasket maker when you reseal the cover however; before doing this I would find the transmission leak; a gasket? a bearing seal? then fill the crankcase with about 50 wt. motor oil

Jun 09, 2009 | Kenmore 24032\24036 Top Load Washer

1 Answer

Ultimate care 2 washer not spinning - not coupler

the transmission has to complete several revolutions before it engages the "spinning gear" but once engaged it should continue to turn the clutch plate as long as it is turned the same direction.
before suspecting the transmission i would first check the plastic piece above the clutch plate.aca822b.jpg

Jul 26, 2008 | Whirlpool Ultimate Care II LSQ9549L Top...

2 Answers


try it on wash and let me know if it agitates hold my rating till were through please

Jan 13, 2008 | Whirlpool LSB6300PW Top Load Washer

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