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The ignitor is probably bad not aloowing the gas valve to come on and ignite the gas to heat the dryer. The ignitor is a flat bimetallic element that heats up when the dryer is turned on to light the burner to heat the dryer. It is usually located in the lower left section of the dryer near the burner assembly. It has two wires usually white going to it with a plug in connector on the end.
Your dryer is electric. This means it needs 2 electrical phases (hot wires) and one neutral to wor. If you measure 110v across 2 phases - one of them is out. Unplug the dryer. Find the double breaker for your dryer on the breaker panel. Pull breaker to the off position hard (do not overdo it,as you can pull the breaker out), and then back to on position. Check voltage between the two phases, it should read 220-240v. Check the voltage between each phase and the neutral (middle prong), should read 110-120v. If you don't get these readings - call electrician. If you get the proper voltage, plug the dryer back in. If it does not work - Dryer needs repair. Likely a thermal fuse is blown or problem with power wiring inside.
no heat usually means your only getting110 volts into your dryer.....you need the full 220volts to run heaters....with voltage meter you checkwires on the plug OUTLET...or inside back cover REDwire to WHITEwire =110v.........BLACKwire to WHITEwire =110v.....REDwire to BLACKwire =220v. you probably have aBAD 220V. 30 amp circut breaker..or if still using FUSES one is burnt out (In house electric panel) or burnt off RED or BLACKwire in back of dryer.....
With the assumption you have a gas range with electric ignition and is fully powered (plugged in); the possible problem may be the "Electric ignitor/Glow bar".
When turning on the oven, do you see a redish (good) or yellowish (not good; replace) glow emitting from the very bottom or the oven/broil area?
There are typically 2 types of electric glow bar ignitors; Round and Square. Ignitors are actually fairly easy to replace, removing 2 mounting screws and cutting/splicing 2 seperate wires together. Is your ignitor "round" (circular - like size of finger ) or "square" (rectangular - like snickers candy bar)
If your ignitor is not coming on at all; this can be a couple things;
Defective Ignitor - Gone completely Bad - Out (Assuming your have full power 110v to ignitor)
Defective Gas Valve - Assist in passing 110V to Ignitor
Defective Control Board / Thermostat: Assist in passing 110V to Ignitor
FYI - As a safety measure, the ignitor needs to "come on and appear solid red" to properly pass power to gas valve; thus opening and allowing gas to pass through the burners and combust.
if you get 120 volts to the ignitor, then the ignitor will glow ,if not you have a bad ignitor. the valve should have continuity through the the 2 connections.. its poosible to have 110v to ground at ignitor, the only way you get 110v you need to check power across the 2 wires to the ignitor( not to ground), and this will not happen with a bad safety vavle
removing hte front panel will gain you acess to the ignitor assy, it plugs in to a harness, to ck it unplug the harnes and check ignitor for continuity. or carefully plug a meter into machine side of harnes and turn unit on your loooking for 110v. if you have 110v and ignitor not lighting you have bad ignitor, if no voltage present id look toward a bad thermal fuse
you can remove the lower acess panel (2) 5/16 screws along bottom. youll get a good view of workings there. turn on dryer (make sure a heat cycle is selected. you should see the ignitor light with in a few secs. if not unplug the ignitor(small white connector maybe 6inhes back from ignitor itself) and with a meter ck for 110v in that connection when unit is turned on, if you do have 110volts , you hav abad ignitor. ifyou dont get 110 volts you need to check the thermostat(s) located on top of the heater box right above the ignitor, if no continuity you need a new thermo.
theres a thermal fuse located on back panel usually white maybe 2 inches tall 1/2 wide 2 blue wires leading to it. ck for continuity, if none replace that(most common problem)... if good you can go back to the ignitor and unplug the white connector it plugs into. place your meter leads into the connector and turn on dryer, you should get 110v. if you do you have a bad ignitor, if not a thermo's gone bad (check the thermal fuse first though.