My dryer is taking 2-4 cycles to dry a load of laundry. I've cleaned the vent, even ran a load with a nylon on the vent to verify it's not a venting issue (which still didn't dry properly). I opened the dryer and the heating element looks good and no lint on the blower wheel. What could be my issue?
Did you test the power outlet with another device...Sometimes a power outlet will fail under the load of a high current appliance like a drier...If the drier runs on 220 volt current...and have circuit breakers instead of fuses...make sure the 220 volt breaker for the dryer is not tripped...If it is tripped...reset it....if not...have a tech to check the outlet. oncee it is established that the drier is getting power and still not working...you may want to get it checked out by service personnel....Hope this was helpful....PEACE.....
see this causes and fix it. God bless you
Check to see whether there's power getting to the dryer. Is it plugged
in? If you plug something else into the outlet, does it work? If not,
check for a blown fuse or tripped circuit breaker.
Door Switch
If the door switch or the door-switch actuator is defective, the dryer
won't work and you need to replace the failed component. The switch is
inside the dryer main housing near the door frame. Sometimes you need to
raise or open the top or front of the dryer to reach the switch. Check for continuity you should have none with door open, and should have a reading when closed. If not replace the door switch.
Thermal Fuse / Thermal Cut out
On many dryers, there's a thermal fuse (a heat-sensitive fuse that blows
if the dryer overheats) mounted to the exhaust duct inside the back
cover panel or behind the front panel. The fuse is about an inch long.
It's usually embedded in black resin and mounted in a white plastic
housing or is sometimes round and made of metal and plastic.
If the fuse has blown, it has no continuity. When this happens, your
dryer either just stops heating, or it doesn't work at all. Be sure to
inspect the venting/heating system before replacing the fuse this is the most common reason for blowing the fuse. (You can't re-set this type of fuse.)
Wiring
Often the main wiring connection from the house, at the dryer, burns and
the connection breaks. In this has happened to your dryer, you need to replace the power cord and the terminal block inside the dryer to which the wire is attached.
SOURCE: admiral heavy duty super capacity dryer won't heat up.
see this causes , fix it. God bless you, use the common sense
Check to see whether there's power getting to the dryer. Is it plugged
in? If you plug something else into the outlet, does it work? If not,
check for a blown fuse or tripped circuit breaker.
Door Switch
If the door switch or the door-switch actuator is defective, the dryer
won't work and you need to replace the failed component. The switch is
inside the dryer main housing near the door frame. Sometimes you need to
raise or open the top or front of the dryer to reach the switch. Check for continuity you should have none with door open, and should have a reading when closed. If not replace the door switch.
Thermal Fuse / Thermal Cut out
On many dryers, there's a thermal fuse (a heat-sensitive fuse that blows
if the dryer overheats) mounted to the exhaust duct inside the back
cover panel or behind the front panel. The fuse is about an inch long.
It's usually embedded in black resin and mounted in a white plastic
housing or is sometimes round and made of metal and plastic.
If the fuse has blown, it has no continuity. When this happens, your
dryer either just stops heating, or it doesn't work at all. Be sure to
inspect the venting/heating system before replacing the fuse this is the most common reason for blowing the fuse. (You can't re-set this type of fuse.)
Wiring
Often the main wiring connection from the house, at the dryer, burns and
the connection breaks. In this has happened to your dryer, you need to replace the power cord and the terminal block inside the dryer to which the wire is attached.
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