Question about Hobart A200 Stand Mixer

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A200 electronic start switch

Have Hobart A200 ml # 104858 (missing) switch-electronic start 50/60 Hz part # 00-271612-00002
when I get new switch what wires go where. Thanx, Harry

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  • harryo52 Feb 12, 2009

    Thanks Bigg T, got new switch and found that in fact they where marked. Like to stay ahead of thing and didn't want to wait till last minute to find that switch would not be marked. Thanx for sharing Bigg T. Harry Oooooooooo

  • flormont Feb 20, 2009

    Hi Bigg_t, I would be interested by your diagram which describes how to connect the start-relay.Could you send it to me, please ? many thanks, flormont@gmail.com

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Hi harry,the wires should be marked 1-2-3-4,if not i'll give you the diagram.Let me know.

Posted on Feb 12, 2009

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Why My Hobart A200 20 QT Mixer ML #104858 Motor Is Smoking?


I think... without knowing that motor... that the capacitor is a start capacitor, and that the start switch may be trying to "start" the motor full-time instead of switching it out of circuit after it figures that the motor has spun up. I may be wrong - that design may be a capacitor-run motor (similar to a three-phase motor) - but I'm betting it's a start-only capacitor.

If you know someone with a capacitance meter, you could check the capacitor - for both capacitance (to be sure it matches the label) and leakage. Easy way to write that one off. Alternatively, you could rig it such that after the motor's wound up you could manually disconnect the capacitor and see what happens - either the motor stops or else the smoking issue stops.

Whatever you do, don't let it smoke very long. The varnish on the windings is only so thick.

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There are four possibilities to look at here. Assuming your mixer has a normal capacitor start motor (older a200's used a different style motor), possibilities are, in order of likelihood:

Motor start capacitor
Start switch (electronic or mechanical)
Burned wiring
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The start capacitor is located at the rear of the mixer. Remove the rear cover (4 screws) and pull the cover towards you. Disconnect one wire from the capacitor and test with any multimeter.

The start switch, if electronic, is able to be tested, but not very easily. Once you've eliminated the other possibilities, it's time to replace the (electronic) start switch. If the motor has a mechanical start switch, it's easy to test: Remove the two wires at the rear of the motor and test for continuity with the motor stationary. A multimeter should show near zero ohms for a good mechanical start switch.

Burned wiring should be easy to spot with some careful inspection around the motor, capacitor, and start switch.

Start winding: Look closely at the stator (stationary part of the motor). If some of the copper windings look significantly darker in color than the others, it's likely the start windings were overheated (the start windings are the thinner copper wires - if you look closely, approximately half of the wires are thinner than the other half). Look for a wiring diagram behind the power switch and determine which wires leading to the start switch and/or capacitor are for the start windings and test for continuity across the start winding. You should read a fairly small value such as 5 - 15 ohms. Values significantly outside this range could indicate a partially open or partially shorted start winding.

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I'm a service tech for hobart,I'll type your serial number into our database and see what it brings up.The changes that have been made---older units use a mechanical start switch on the motor,the new units use an electronic start switch.the old units center shaft and gears have changed.the older units dont have bowl guards and the new units do.(this is a cage that goes around the bowl).The gasket that your talking about is just that--a thin paper.The paper wears and you get that symptom you describe and its normal.I'll get back to you.

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