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Re: How far should the dryer vent be from the wall to the...
No, you do not want the dryer vent crushed at all. Go to Home Depot and find a 4 inch adjustable 90 or something along that line. The problem will be that your clothes will dry for alittle while and then you will stat noticing longer and longer dry times
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Without actually seeing exactly where the item of clothing is lodged, this will be a tough problem to resolve. However, as a guess I will suggest the following:
Carefully pull your dryer away from the wall, far enough so you can get behind it. Be carefull not to stretch, pinch or damage your gas line. Next, with a screwdriver, unscrew the large vent clamp that attaches the aluminum vent to your dryer. Pull this vent pipe off the dryer inlet and see if you can access the lodged item. If not, you may have to attack the problem from within the dryer.
You need to either used compressed air to blow it out...I highly recomment that you do that procedure outside of the house.
Or you can use your vacuum to **** the dirt out of the small spaces, you can go as far as to disassemble it to clean it.
Be sure to check the blower and housing for accumulated dust.
I would make an extension out of a paper towel roller to tape to the end of the vacuum attachment used as an extension to **** out the dust in small places and longer distance.
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You will need to get 230v to allow the dryer to work if your service panel has 230 you will need to get a 30 amp two pole breaker and run 3 wire #8 in size. Then get the socket and plug for the dryer. The 110 in the model number simply means made by whirlpool and is a pretty good machine but requires 230 volts to dry with heat.
ive seen people build there own stack unit. alot of techs will tell you no but ive seen this done and there has been no issue. just make sure your platform is strong enough to handle the tumble of the dryer during normal operation
Your Thermal Cut-Out (TCO) is blown. It should read close to 0 ohms if good. In addition, it is highly recommended that you replace the Hi-Limit Thermostat along with the TCO. These parts are commonly sold as a set. Failure to do so can result in premature failure of both parts.
BEFORE you replace anything make sure you check your dryer ventilation for clogs. Cleaning the lint screen is not enough as no lint screen captures 100 percent of the lint. Some lint always manages to end up in the vent line. This includes the blower fan housing INSIDE the dryer. Most dryer heat related problems are caused by clogged ventilation, leading to an overheat condition. In an overheat condition, the TCO will blow.
Some things to consider:
1. Are you pushing the dryer too far up against the wall? This lead to crushed or kinked dryer vent hoses which will result in overheating. Leave about a foot space between the back of the dryer and the wall to prevent this.
2. Does your dryer vent line run through an attic or crawl space? These types of configurations are notorious for creating choke points where lint can clog. This is either due to gravity in an attic configuration. Or, sags and kinks in a crawl space configuration. Frequent inspection and cleaning may be required.
3. Is your vent line excessively long? This can cause lint to back up because there isn't enough force from the blower fan to push it all out of the vent exhaust. The rule of thumb is: The SHORTER and STRAIGHTER a vent line, the BETTER.
I'm not trying to lecture you on something that may not be a problem with your dryer. I merely put this advice out as a precautionary to prevent you from purchasing parts, only to have them go bad prematurely because you weren't advised of what may be causing the problem. The TCO blows for a REASON. The reason is generally caused by an overheat condition. You need to figure out why.
I hope you find this information helpful. Let me know if you require additional assistance.