Ge zoneline 2100 every thing works,but compressor keeps humming in off mode also and compressor get hot,so i disconnected one jumper wire from compressor and its ok now, ac wont work now.can someone know what's wrong?
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I worked extensively on GE Zoneline AZ Air Conditioners and Heat Pumps while a Maintenance Superintendent at a Senior Citizen's Apartment Complex. Not knowing what type of smell to which you are referring, I can assure you that other than "burnt electrical" smells, the only smell that could possibly be produced would be that from within the INDOOR SPACE. Perhaps something has made its way into the INDOOR AIR FILTER? Perhaps that INDOOR AIR FILTER needs to be cleaned. To clean the INDOOR AIR FILTER, simply lift both of the filters from the front cover, take to your clean bath tub. Run EXTREMELY HOT WATER from the back of the filter to the front of the filter. Then, fill your bathtub 1/4 way with EXTREMELY HOT WATER. Add 1 cup of Hydrogen Peroxide and 1 cup of Real Lemon Juice. Set both filters in this solution for 30 minutes; then rinse with clear water. Set filters up to dry for at least 2 hours in the sun or an air breeze. Replace filters into the GE Zoneline.
Also, not knowing how OLD your GE Zoneline system is, the COILS may need to be cleaned. To do this, simply turn OFF your GE Zoneline unit and remove the front COVER of the unit. Next, mix in a spray bottle 4 packets of LEMON flavored KOOL-AID (without SUGAR) and water. Shake well. Spray the INDOOR COILS of your GE Zoneline unit with the entire contents of this mixture. Let set for at least 10 minutes. Then turn your GE Zoneline to the COOL position. The citric acid in the lemon kool-aid will be forced through the coils to continue to remove any dirt, dust, debris and effectively CLEAN those coils. This will also provide you a LEMONLY odor within your room. Simple and cheap.
Could be lack of service. The unit depends on a clean evaporator and condenser coil. The "other" motor you hear is the compressor starting or stopping probably due to either a high pressure or low pressure switch, or thermal cut-out.
POSITION IN WINDOW SLIGHTLY TILTED BACK, IF ITS CLEAN!! IF NOT BEEN CLEANED AND I MEAN DISSASSEMBLED AND REALLY CLEANED OUT ITS NOT GONNA HELP TO TILT IT MUCH AS THE PASSAGES TO THE REAR CONDENSER COIL ARE CLOGGED, THE CONDENSER IS HOT AND EVAPORATES IT NORMALLY IS ALL IS CLEAN
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One might think so, YES the compressor is running till it gets hot and tripps on hi-temperature, and after it cools down awhile, the switch willcautomatically reset itself and back- & forth......Thank-you-very much!
well, it's been almost 4 years since this was posted, but it's the selector knob. these things are HORRIBLY designed (the selector knobs) very easy to break if someone pushes it to the side too hard.
ASSUMING when you cleaned it, you didn't get the controller knob wet, which could cause heat and ac to come on at the same time. If after a few days, it's still the same, it's the selector. I've replaced a million of them (ok, not really a million, but, a lot.)
COMPRESSORS HAVE AN INTERNAL T-STAT TO PROTECT THE WINDINGS ... SOME THING IS CAUSING YOUR COMPRESSOR TO RUN "HOT" THIS WILL KICK "IN & OUT" THE COMPRESSOR DURING COLLING OPERATION AND HEAT MODE (IF IT IS A HEAT-PUMP).
1ST THING TO EASILY CHECK IS THE CONDENSOR "OUT-SIDE" COIL. (CLEN BOTH WHILE YOU ARE AT IT).
THESE FANS PULL THE AIR IN AND A BLOW OUT THE COIL .... ALL THE DIRT WILL BE ON THE INSIDE.
2ND THING IS THE FAN ITSEL OVER HEATING AN TURNING "OFF" ON ITS OWN "BUILT-IN POTECTION T-STAT". THIS WILL GIVE YOU THE IRRATIC OPERATION YOU ARE DESCRIBEING.
I TEND TO THINK IT IS YOUR FAN MOTOR ... EASY TEST. TURN "OFF" EVERYTHING BUT THE FAN. SET IT FOR MANUAL "RUN ALL THE TIME" POSITION. THE FAN SHOULD NOT KICK OFF !!! IF IT DOES YOU FOUND THE PROBLEM.
IF IT DOES TURN OFF IT CAN BE A WEAK CAPACITOR.
UNITS VARY ON WETHER THE CAPACITOR IS FOR COMPRESSOR/FAN OR HAS A SEPERATE CAPACITOR FOR EACH. CAPACITORS ARE NOT EXPENSIVE.
HOPE THAT CAN NARROW YOUR PROBLEM DOWN