Fuji film advance does not work

To the best of my knowledge all 35mm cameras load identically, apart from a few automatic models that claimed to be self loading.

A new film cassette has a tongue of film protruding. Once the cassette has been loaded into the recess on the left and the rewind crank pushed down and engaged with the film spool, a couple of inches of film is pulled from the cassette and the tongue poked through the slot in the takeup spool - it might be necessary to use the film advance until the slot is visible.

With about a half-inch of film pushed through the slot, slowly advance the film until the slackness is gone while fully engaging the sprocket holes at the edges of the film on the teeth of the sprockets. Advance the film a little more to check it is properly engaged and once you are satisfied close the camera back firmly making certain the catch is engaged and it won't spring open again.

Once closed, advance the film until it stops which signals the shutter is set and is ready to take a photograph, however the first and perhaps the second frame has been contaminated with light and so press the shutter release, advance and press again and the third advance is where the photographs begin. If there is a frame counter it is best to be guided by this.

Cameras that have a manual advance usually have a manual return crank that will be seen to rotate as the film is advanced. When all the frames have been used the film will be felt to come to the end. At this point the clutch button must be pressed to disengage the wind-on mechanism and the film wound back into the cassette using the crank on the left.

If you mean the Fujifilm Endeavor 250ix, this is an APS camera. It uses the so-called Advanced Photo System film, which is extinct. Some vintage camera stores may have a few rolls in cold storage, but you won't find any at an ordinary department store.

If your film was TOTALLY blank then it's been bleached due to a processing error. By totally blank, I mean that there are no frame numbers or other film markings on your blank film. Otherwise, you simply have an unexposed film.

First, operate the camera with the camera back open, hold the camera up to a bright light and operate the camera as you look into the back of the lens. If you see a brief bit of light coming through as you operate the shutter then the shutter is admitting light into the camera and so you should have got some kind of an image unless you failed to correctly load the film (very common).

Unfortunately, there's no way to tell unless you try another roll of film. Once the film is loaded, turn the rewind crank gently to take up slack film and take a few pictures; each time you advance the film the rewind crank should turn a little. If it doesn't then the film has not been correctly loaded as the film leader has not engaged onto the take-up spool. If so, open the camera and re-engage the film. If it clearly has engaged, then the take-up spool is failing to rotate when the film is advanced: try taking a few shots and winding on the film with the back open. If the film is not advancing then you have a faulty Lomo. This is extremely common as it is a plastic toy camera with atrocious build quality and materials and is the FishEye is only designed for paltry ten rolls of film lifespan.

A final check for film which has not advanced through the camera is if the rewind is extremely short when the film has finished.

This is not the best solution as it indicates a faulty film back. The film should advance without resorting to activating the film-wind release lever. That is only for intentionally advancing a partially exposed roll of film. Make sure the multi-exposure lever is not engaged and that the counter does advance and the red mark disappears as you advance to an unexposed frame.

If you press the film release button like you are going to rewind exposed film you may be able to activate the film advance lever to cock the camera so you can take another picture, and the film should stay on the first exposure allowing you to re - expose it. I would underexpose each image 1 F stop because.you are exposing the same film twice. Double exposures are always an iffy proposition and anything can happen. After the second exposure cocking the film advance should allow the film to advance once again. You might test this on the final pictures on a roll in case the camera won't start advancing the film after you try it. This way you won't blow a whole roll worth of pictures testing it.

There doesn't seem to be a pattern with any of the Fuji films (I use Sensia and Velvia, exclusively, and have never had a problem in my Canon EOS). There are reports that the Fuji Pro films will gum up the sprockets in a camera, thanks to an adhesive strip at the end of the roll, but I'm not sure if the regular 400 speed film has the same problem. You might try a thorough cleaning, and see if it is still happening. I'm not surprised that 400 speed comes out a tad dark. Try dropping to 200 speed (I generally won't use anything above 100 speed, unless it is black&while).

Cheers

throw it away, its already old, buy new ones a pentax g40, its a computer compatible.

You rewound the roll to fix the camera and now you want to advance over the exposed film to get to the unexposed part? Not a problem, just put the camera to full manual and load up the film, now cover the lens with the lens cover and go into a dark closet and start shooting and advancing until you get to the unexposed portion of the film, there you go. You know you can get 24 exposures of 35mm film for 99 cents and the 99cent store?