Hello, anyone could give me directions how to take the top cover off? Looks like all screws are concealed, pull/push does not do the trick. Any help greatly appreciated!
Normal 0 false false false MicrosoftInternetExplorer4
/* Style Definitions */ table.MsoNormalTable {mso-style-name:"Table Normal"; mso-tstyle-rowband-size:0; mso-tstyle-colband-size:0; mso-style-noshow:yes; mso-style-parent:""; mso-padding-alt:0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; mso-para-margin:0in; mso-para-margin-bottom:.0001pt; mso-pagination:widow-orphan; font-size:10.0pt; font-family:"Times New Roman"; mso-ansi-language:#0400; mso-fareast-language:#0400; mso-bidi-language:#0400;}First, don’t destroy anything on the top of the machine.Eight screws. Two are accessed through the rubber foot pads. Six are accessedfrom the basket compartment. You will need a VERY LONG AND SKINNY Phillipsscrewdriver with a foot-long blade and a very narrow diameter to fit down theaccess holes. I cut my case in two to get at the six screws through the basketcompartment (very messy). It would probably be easier to drill holes throughthe bottom of the case for screw access. You could then use tape to cover the holes.
Our shredder quit running while in use. Staples said itwould probably need a new circuit board. Once I got inside I found a 5 amp fusesoldered to the circuit board. Yes, it was blown. I jumped it and the machineworked. I unsoldered the fuse and soldered in two wires that I ran through ahole I drilled in the top of the machine. I took a 5 amp automotive fuse(bayonet style) and drilled a small hole through each bayonet. I then threadedthe two wires through the two holes on the fuse and wrapped them around,instead of soldering, for easy future replacement. Then I wrapped the fuse withelectric tape for safety and taped the fuse flat to the top of the machine.Voila! A flawed Chinese product is made usable! Dan Phelps [email protected]
I have this same shredder and only use it for the occasional shredding of bills and receipts. You know things I just don’t feel happy about putting in the garbage.
So it worked quite well until I decided to shred a lot of paper continuously.
Then suddenly it stopped working. No lights nothing. So I made the valiant attempt to take it apart, this was a mind boggler. What I found was, there are two screws under the felt cushions at the bottom of the unit. You need a long Philips screwdriver to remove them. Then I found after removing these screws you need to use quite a bit of force to pull the shredder from the white casing because it is held in place by sticky tape located between the wall of the in and outer casing.
Once apart I needed to remove more screws from below the shredding assembly to enable access the electrical components. Upon checking the circuitry I found a small fuse had blown on the electronic circuit board. This fuse is soldered in so now I have a problem of location anther fuse and then installing it. Soldered onto the circuit board, what a stupid design. Hay, that was a bit long, sorry but I hope it helps.
The screws are inside. Remove the catch bin, flip the shredder over and
note the 6 holes inside. the screws are about 4 inches down. it
requires a long (5-6) inch screw driver (philips #2) and a lot of
patience. Remove the 6 screws and the top lifts right off with the
entire shredding unit and PCB attached. the sensor switch (for the
catch bin) comes off with one screw. the shredder lifts right off the
top, not attached.
Now What? I performed 3 simple tests before disassembling.
1. If you get the blue light when you turn it on. but it goes off when you removed the drawer. then the drawer sensor works.
2. If you turn it on and press the fwd of rev buttons, you should hear
the relays click (power is going to the PCB but maybe not the motor)
3. If you turn it on and slowly slide an envelope in to shred, you
should hear the same relays click inside. (indicates the led sensor is
working, again, power is not going to the motor)
Now I have come to my dilema. there is a fuse on the PCB (i
checked it and it is good (else you wouldn' t get the relays to
energize.) I did find the large (i'm pretty sure its 5 watts) 5WOR6J
cement resistor is open. (the white retangular cube) The problem is I
don't know the value of it and can't seem to cross the part number to
any manufacturer.
If you find this is also your problem and you find a replacement, post it here. Thanks
My shredder gave me the same results on the test by tencom1000. I replaced the resistor labled 5WR6J in my unit with a RadioShack item number 271-0130. Description: 0.47 -Ohm Wirewound Resistor 5 watt 10% tolorance. Preliminary results good (shredded 3 separate sheets). I don't pretend to know "the math"...I took a chance and it has paid off so far. ALSO HELPFUL: THERE IS TWO SIDED TAPE per sokol158 below...do yourself a favor and run something thing along it to loosen that tape.
×
5WOR65J IS A
5 WATT
0.6 OHMS
CERAMIC CEMENT RESISTOR
ALSO DONT TO FORGET CHECK 100 OHMS RESISTOR BY BIG 250 VOLT CAPACITOR .
SOME IT GET FRIED OF SEVERELY WEAKEN WHEN CERAMIC RESISTOR GOES .
To Solution #3 about the 5 watts 5WOR6J
cement resistor.
I had the same problem. Since the resistor is connected to a bridge rectifier KBL406L, which is 4A 600v rating. So 120v divided by 4A will be 30 ohms. I put a 33 ohms 5w into it and it work.
'5W0R6J' would indicate 5-watts at 0.6 (where 'R' is the decimal-point) ohms. 33 ohms is thus a higher resistance than originally installed, but not so high a value as to keep the motor from running.
I replaced the 5WOR6J by a 5W033 (5W 33 ohm), it worked for one letter. Then during the next one, same problem: blue light and just clicks.
I opened it again and I found the 5W033 that unsoldered itself, cracked open, and having melted the surrounding plastic. it looks like it became really hot.
This does not look like the right fix.
×
noproblemisp
Rank: Apprentice
Rating: 100%, 1 votes
1. Remove the two rubber pads (only two out of four pads with Phillips screw, you should be able to see which two).
2. Use a long Phillips screw driver to remove the two screws
3. You may still not able to remove the the housing because there are double side tapes sticking the front part of the housing to the shredder's base, use a ruler (steel ruler) to detach the tapes
4. You should be able to pull out the housing (the machine should be up-side-down) and you should be able to do what you wanted to fix.
Enjoy.
9,744 views
Usually answered in minutes!
same problem- just quit
same exact problem service screws hidden
blue light on, but shredder will not shred
same problem, called staples and they basically say the warranty covers the cutter for 10 years, but not the motor. total BS, never buying from them again
×