I have two 1400 watt pyle amps and two dual voice coil 12" subs what power cap size do i need to run it to its peek proformance without friing my altinator in my car i am powering a total 2800 watts peak power
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Re: what power cap do i need for my car audio
I would go with a 4 FARAT capacitor then you know your amp won't be dimming your lights or clipping your amplifier signal.
I would actually buy the kinetic capacitor from www.onlinecarstereo.com they rated at being 100 1 farat capacitors. Great buy since it's on sale for $200 with added shipping.. Otherwise the 4 farat is needed.
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run them straight and dont use the cross over. One speak on right channel and the other on other channel. Then turn up amp settings 7/8 the way up and control the rest from your dvd/cd player. I recommend some monster cable which is very thick. Ground the amp directly to trunk bolts but make sure to scrape the paint off or the connection will be bad. You can also use a cap which will send battery pulses to amp much quicker.
The 2 sets of terminals are connected internally. Having 2 sets just makes it more convenient when wiring multiple subs. The amp is rated for 900 watts RMS into a 2 ohm load. The specs claim that it is stable at 1 ohm but does not give a power rating.
The Radial SD competition series from Phoenix Gold are rated to handle up to 600 watts RMS. If you have the model RSdC124 with dual 4 ohm voice coils, it would be best to wire the voice coils in parallel for a 2 ohm load and connect the sub to one set of terminals on the amp. If your sub is the model RSdC122 with dual 2 ohm voice coils, you should wire the voice coils is series for a 4 ohm load and connect the sug to one set of terminals on the amp. Wiring the voice coils in parallel will result in a 1 ohm load. And, while the amp may be stable at 1 ohm, the sub will be seriously overpowered.
From what I am able to determine, the Orion HCCA250 is a bridgeable 2-channel amp that is stable to 1ohm when bridged and outputs 800 watts RMS into that load.
The JL W6's in both 10" and 12" versions are dual voice coil with 4ohm coils so they can be wired to present either an 8ohm load (series) or a 2ohm load (parallel). They can handle 600 watts RMS.
With this combination, the best configuration would be to wire the sub voice coils in parallel for a 2ohm load and then parallel both subs to the amp bridged terminals for a final impedance of 1ohm. The subs will each be getting 400 watts.
In any event, I would not recommend running subs in series. There is some evidence for distortion being caused by something termed "back EMF".
Your Directed D2400 amp is CEA2006 Compliant. It is stable at 1ohm and will produce 1,200 watts into that load. So you want your subs wired as close to 1 ohm as possible.
The only 3500 watt Pioneer Premier series subs I could find were the models number TS-W3002D2 and TS-W3002D4 with dual 2ohm and dual 4ohm voice coils respectively. The wiring options for the D2's result in 0.5ohm (too low), 2 ohms, and 8ohms. Your best option would be the 2ohm configuration which would be voice coils in series and subs in parallel. Options for the D4's result in a 1ohm load and a 4ohm load. Your best option would be the 1ohm configuration which would be voice coils and subs parallel.
To see the wiring options, try Rockford-Fosgate's "wiring wizard".
Select 2 woofers and the appropriate voice coil impedance and quantity and click "search". It'll bring up all of the possible wiring configurations along with the final impedance load.
if you have dual voice coils connect on each seporate sub negative left channel to possative right channel of the subwoofer same to other sub then conect the left possative and the right neggative to your box power terminal same to other sub then conect the two sub outs on your box left speaker positive to your positive left channel bridge then conect left speaker negative to the right speaker possative then connect your right speaker negative to your right channel negative brigdeg to your amp is single coil hook the box its self up the same way to your amp i have two dual voice cooil 12" hooked up to the same amp that way and it rocks without the power protecter turning on
I looked up that amp, it doesn't have a listing for 2ohms x1 but it has 2 ohms x 2 and its at 250watts. For this situation, I would recommend a different amp or different subs. Right now you are getting the most you can get out of your sub/amp combo, if you only have single voice coil subs. Which is common in the mtx preloaded boxes. Either you want an mono block amp stable at 2 ohms or 2 dual 4 ohm voice coil subs. If you got the subs you would wire the voice coils in series so you could get 8 ohms then the subs in parallel so you could get 4 ohms, which would be the best for that particular amp. Good luck.
That all depends upon whether or not the sub you are running has dual voice coils or just a single voice coil. The 800a4 is a four channel amp; thus the only way you can bridge it will be 3 channel or 2 channel. If you are running a dual voice coil sub then you can wire the amp two channel and get 400 watts x 2 @ 4 ohms. Make sure that you sub can handle this kind of power though.
Here are the specs:
4 x 100 @ 4 ohms (13.8V - <0.05% THD) 4 x 200 @ 2 ohms (13.8V - <0.10% THD) 2 x 400 @ 4 ohms bridged (13.8V - <0.10% THD) Fuse: External 60A Manufactured in 1999 - 2001
First of all how many ohm's are each subwoofer rated at . Are the subwoofers dual voice coil or single voice coil. Once I know that I can help you. I think the JL amp is not recommended below a 2ohm load.