Question about Bosch Brute Breaker Hammer 11304

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Bent rod the hammer was not working and i found that it had a bent rod . what would cause this

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If it is an air or gas hammer... probably lack of lubrication...

Posted on Oct 28, 2009

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How to fix jackhammer it doesnt hammer.


Bosch hammer drill 11304 uses sds bits and is generally a good hammer. Usually only needs yearly (depending on use) lube with Bosch grease to keep it working well. No hammering usually means lack of lubrication or broken connecting rod on the hammer piston. Not easy to repair. Tackle only if you have lots of experience with Bosch or other complicated hammers. Parts are easy to find. Good luck.

Mar 02, 2012 | Breaker Hammers

1 Answer

Dewalt breaker 25980 drawings


DeWALT D25980 Type 1 Breaker Hammer parts list and prices here:

http://www.ereplacementparts.com/dewalt-d25980-type-breaker-hammer-parts-c-1009_2700_3998.html

More information about the hammer can be found at dewalt for parts lists and manual here:

http://servicenet.dewalt.com/
Good luck with your repair.

Sep 24, 2011 | Dewalt D25980 15a Pavement Breaker Jack...

1 Answer

Were do i get my eletric jack hammer repaired


These are not too hard to repair. I fixed a big HILTI TE 74 SDS type one by going to a German website and buying parts. There is a carbon composite connecting rod that breaks right up the middle due to all the shock loads. The oil in there really gets gritty and black too so it should be changed about every week when possible. Everything comes out the barrel end if you have long internal clip remover pliers and a big vice to use. The hard part is getting the ball bearing out which is squeezed into the aluminum barrel about five inches back. Search for conrod and your model of hammer.

Mar 25, 2011 | Rotary Breaker Hammers

1 Answer

Good morning Sir, i fitted a complete service kit on my bosch gsh 11e but after a few moments of use it wouldn't hammer any longer, i immediately dismantled it but found nothing wrong. please note that i...


Bosch hammers work better under all environmental conditions with bosch grease part# 1615430010 or equivalent (such as hitachi, skill, or makita hammer grease). Bosch grease is light, slightly sticky with a high dropping point. If the grease is heavy and really stickey the hammering action will not be as desired and may get vacuum lock and not hit at all. Be sure to store hammer with nose pointing down to prevent hammer/anvel from slipping too far back into cylinder. In the case of Bosch hammers, more is not better. Too much grease has a negetive effect so just light application will go a long way. Good holidays

Dec 14, 2010 | Breaker Hammers

1 Answer

After repair of my hammer it became even weaker than before what can be the problem


Since you tried to repare a hammer that causes new stress points in the hammer so it causes the metal to become softer.

Dec 09, 2010 | Breaker Hammers

4 Answers

I have a hilti TP800 that will not hammer. no polunging action for the chisels


TP800 are that takes me back. right hear we go...
as over people have sugested remove the 4 screws and the black plastic cap from the top of the machine. you should be able to see the con rod and the crank gear, and in front of the crank gear you should see the small gear which is the top of thr armature, you may have to scoop out some grease in order to see it. Check that the con rod is not broken. earlier machines had aluminium cod rods but the later models have plastic ones which were prone to breaking. this isn't to say that the aluminium ones never broke because they did and wow what a mess may made when they did. if your con rod looks ok, try this... keep your hands clear of the open gears, and put some glasses on. turn the machine on and make sure that the crank is turning. look at the small gear on the armature to see is it is wobbly. the small roller bearing at the top of the armature use to callapse causing them to wobble. this would strip both the gears. a good sign of this is metalic parlicles in the grease. this fault is very expensive as you will have to replace the armature, bearing, seal, and the crankshaft. ouch...BUT DONT DESPARE. if this looks ok, it must be the piston rings these are cheap, fairly easy to change and available, as they are still used on more current models. the part number for these piston rings (o-rings) is 13772. want to know how to change them?.. read on...The hardest part is removing the chuck as you must remove the retaining clip at the tip of the chuck. hilti make a special tool for this, but it is possible with a good set of circlip pliers, 2 flat screw drivers and 4 hands. top tip...Remove the rear handle assembly, just remove the 4 screws and pull it off, now the machine can be stood upright on a workbench. Wear safaty goggles and put a chisel in the chuck, this will help you not to loose the clip when it flies across the workshop, I hate it when that happens. once you have the clip off its easy from now on. and don't worry, there is an easy way to get it back on. ok, the clip is off. remove the washer and the plastic chuck cover. remove the circlip, remove the chuck sleeves, dont loose the 6 balls or the roller. now there is another large circlip which holds on the black plastic cover. remove them both. now you can see the 6 bolts which hold the machine together. remove them. remove the chuck.you will see a large o-ring around the cylinder, remove it. Now with a screw driver carfully split the cylinder at the point where the o-ring was sitting. carefully pull out the inner cylinder. dont loose the small plastic balls. if they fall out dont worry. put them to one side. inside this cylinder you will find the follower piston, just tap the clyinder on the workbench and it will fall out. replace the o-ring, smaer with grease and replace. The drive piston is probably still inside the red casing. Simply pull the con rod off the crank and tip it out of the casing. on early models this piston had 2 seals. 1 teflon ring over a green rubber O-Ring. on later models these were replaced with an o-ring, the same as the follower piston, the earier type may not be available in which case you may have to replace the pison as well in order to fit the newer o-ring system. once the seals have been replaced, smear with grease. place the piton inside the cylinder just far enough so the conector pin cant fall out of the drive piston. Replace the plastic balls into the detents in the cylinder. use grease to hold them in place. Replace the cylinder into the caseing but make sure that the cut out at the end of the cylider is facing down. This is where the armature gear sits. as you push the cylinder in ensure that the con rod is hooked onto the crankshaft. reassemble in reverse order. use grease to hold the chuck balls and roller in place. dont fit the rear handle yet..now for that clip that caused all the pain at the start of the job. PuT YOUR GOGGLES ON. stand the machine upright on the workbench and get somone to hold it. place the clip on top of the chuck body tube. get a block of wood and place it on top of the ring, and hit it with a hammer. this will knock the ring on 80% of the way, now tap it on with the hammer. refit the rear handle. your done,,,if you removed all the grease replace with a similar type. 70 grams (3 oz) in the crank case under that black plastic cover..
Well I hope that helps, its not as bad as it sounds.
good luck.
please leave feedback .
if you have any more questions please email me.
if you want a parts diagram i can email you a drawing of a TE804 which is virtually the same machine with a slightly different chuck.

paul@wysehire.gi
www.wysehire.gi

Oct 08, 2009 | Breaker Hammers

1 Answer

I have a Bosch brute jackhammer, I need the tool to remove the screw plug and my hammmer motor runs but it dosen't hammer


You can use an adjustable face spanner wrench to remove that cap. I don't remember the pin size but you can measure the holes and get the appropriate size. You can remove the whole plate with the armature by undoing the 4 cap screws. Prior to removing the motor plate you have to remove the handle plate from the axle that goes through the body. Undo the nut that holds the assembly on and slide it off. You can now remove the Armature plate. After removing the cap screws pull the assembly out about 1-2 inches. You will see the wires that go to the field attached to the brush holders. Remove the screw that holds these wires to the brush holders. You can then safely remove the whole assembly. This also makes it easier to remove that cap plug with the spanner wrench, because you can now put the whole assembly in a vise. I always heat around the cap with a torch before doing anything. Then I tap on the plug with a hammer a couple of times and voila it turns alot easier. Corrosion almost always builds up on this cap because of the different metals. (Steel and Aluminum respectfully)

Your hammer may have a broken connecting rod. To inspect this make sure you ping the cylider and body with marks so you line them up the same way. Then remove the 4 cap bolts that hold the cylinder to the body. Remove the cylinder and inspect the hammer cylinder and rod. If the connecting rod is not broken you will have to inspect the gears and pinions to make sure they are ok.

Aug 31, 2009 | Bosch Breaker Hammers

1 Answer

Bosch brute 11304 runs but does not hammer at bit end. Any advice?


Sounds like you have a broken connecting rod. The easiest way to check for this is to remove the 4 cap head bolts holding the cylinder on and remove it. If the hammer piston comes off with the clinder you should be able to see the break. If that is ok you may have some stripped gears or a broken spindle somewhere. But I really think it is the connecting rod.

Jul 28, 2009 | Bosch 11304K Brute Breaker Hammer

2 Answers

We have a couple of brutes that hit slow, I've tried rebuild kits, field coils and armatures. None of these seem to work. Amp drawn normal. Any Ideas???


Sounds like you have too much suction in the hammer cylinder. The hammer may be getting stuck at the top of the cylinder. Inspect to see if the hammer beat piece will slide out of the hammer cylinder. There may be too much grease behind the hammer causing suction at the up stroke. There may also be scarring inside, so inspect to see if the hammer beat piece slides smoothly. Hope this helps.

Jun 26, 2009 | Bosch Brute Breaker Hammer 11304

1 Answer

Operation Problem with breaker


I worked at a tool rental /hire while going to college and repaired many of these breakers. For this tool to work most efficiently, we would store them in their stand upright in a heated area (during winter). This tool requires special grease sold as a service kit which includes orings and bolts for retainer area. Remove large piston attached to connecting rod and remove inner striker (fits inside main piston) this striker is the source of problems. Clean inner cylinder and striker and lube with bosch grease, not too much. If you lay the hammer down or store with bit side up this striker will migrate to uppermost part of the main piston and be vacuum locked thus not hammer. Also remove and lube the impact bolt and look for damage. If chipped or cracked this part must be replaced. Parts/list are available at www.toolpartsdirect.com. enjoy

Nov 29, 2008 | Breaker Hammers

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