Re: water keeps running even when turned of to the house
No problem on this one. Turn of the valve to the toliet just above the floor next to or behind the toilet. Go turn on a outside faucet. Is there still pressure? Wait a minute if it seems like there is still pressure to let the line pressure go down, what this is just water in the line left over. If the water stops on the outside faucet then the water is off. If you do not have a outside faucet then use a tub or a sink faucet. (if it does not stop then see part 2)....Keeping the toilet valve off remove the supply line from the toilet where it connects. This sould be the larger end. Is it is a flex line this should make it easyer. If it is a hard line like copper tubing, stop and go to the hardware store and a buy a flex supply line. This will make your job a lot easyer. After you remove the part of the line that connects to the bottom of the toilet then find a bucket place the end of the line you removed from the toilet into the bucket ( you may have to place the bucket at an angel to do this. Now turn the water valve at the wall for the toiel back on and drain the line. You may have to empty the bucket a few time but the line sould drain out.
( Part 2) If the water to the house is still on you need to go to the water meter and turn of the curb stop, this is going to be the valve inside the meter box ( if you do not have a well) and are on public water. You will need a cresent wrench, sometimes these valves can be hard to turn so you may have to use a little force. If you are on a well the you need to find the valve in you well house and turn it off. If you need more help or this did not solve this problem the repost and I will check back in a little while.
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The most common reason for a toilet to continue to run is a problem with either the flapper or the entire flush valve itself. The water is slowly draining so the fill valve keeps running. The flapper is the least expensive and easiest solution, so start their. It's usually around $5. If that doesn't solve the problem, I would purchase a flush valve kit, around $20, and replace your flush valve. *Note: If you have to replace the flush valve, you have to take your toilet apart. Start with the flapper.
Is the entire closet bolt to the flange turning as you try to tighten down on the nut? If so, use a pair of vise grips on the tip end of the closet bolt; while holding the vise grips firmly in place to keep the bolt from turning, use an open end wrench to turn the nut.
If the closet bolt still turns, you may have a problem where the closet bolt shifted out of position on the flange or the flange itself broke (extremely rare in both scenarios)- but a possibility- if so, turn off the water supply line to the toilet at the shut-off; unscrew the water supply line at the shut-off valve; cut the bolts just below the nut; remove the toilet.
Clean off the old wax ring from the toilet and the flange. Inspect the flange for any damage, replace if necessary.
You'll need to replace the wax ring; there are two types, one with a horn and one without the horn- so make sure use inspect the old wax ring you removed to see if it had a horn or not attached to the wax ring.
Btw, if your particular application requires the horn, the horn end fits down into the flange/soil pipe assembly.
You'll also have to replace the old closet bolts. All your necessary supplies can be purchased at you local plumbing supply house or home improvement centers. Assembly is the reverse of the disassembly
The fill tube may have a crack in it. I am referring to the plastic tube where the water runs in from a small rubber tube connected to the fill valve to refill the bowl after you flush it also serves as an overflow tube in case the water level gets too high. a crack will allow water from the tank to run into the bowl bypassing the flapper. checks this and replace if necessary. hope this helps.
If you've tried turning off both shutoffs underneath and water still runs, then the shutoffs are also likely worn out and need to be replaced. If there is no way to shut off from that point, then the only other option is to have somebody turn off all water in the house near your water meter or main water line. In many places, hardware stores will sell something called a "water shutoff key", but depending on your location, it may have a different local name.
Once water is off to the whole house, turn the hot water on somewhere in the house to reduce pressure from your water heater before replacing your faucet and shutoff valves.
It is a good idea to take one of your old water shutoffs with you to a hardware store to make sure the new one would fit propperly.
If you know somebody who can take apart the faucets to check and replace just the washers, then it could be fixed with even less expense, if you would not rather replace the faucet with a new one that will last longer.
It could be the type of flap you are using. I would suggest you try a different shaped flapper (a cone would work best) and if that doesn't do it, put a new kit into the unit, because it could be that the float system is sticking causing it to continue running.
for the upstairs if the valve is fully on there is not much you can do other than replace water service to the house or heaven forbid repipe.Valves usually don't restrict fill volume.But you can take the supply loose from the tank and stick it in a bucket turn the valve on and check the flow.this should narrow it down.Down stairs repair or replace flush valve