Amp was working fine but had drained the battery over a weekend and a burnt smell. the amp has a burnt mosfet and no other visible damage. I am unsure if this is the only problem and how to check for other faulty components. Any advise would be appreciated. I run the amp at 2ohm but plan to go 1ohm when repaired
The cap will help but If you can take the alternator off and take it to a rebuilder they can build you an alternator that puts out more amps which is a great for multiple amps to charge the battery faster and will give you more sound! More power to amp more watts and clearer sound!
Fosgate's get very hot.My first amp was a fosgate and I freaked out because it got really really hot. And smelled bad. So I moved it so where it could get more air That should help you out a lot and the smell went away on its own. As for your battery dying. Basically your stressing out your battery and your alternator is having a hard time keeping the battery changed. I'm sure you see your light dim when a low bass note hits. Invest in a cap. This will help save your battery your alternator and should even sound better.
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sadly, your amps' output MOSFETS are more than likely toast.
your amp was grounded, and you touched the amp chassis with the power line.
electricity will follow any path available to find ground. in your case, the output mosfets became your main ground-path since they are directly connected to the amps chassis (heat sink) and internally you had grounded the amp so power would flow full force through the output transistors in the serach for a ground.
open up your amp and smell the row of MOSFET transistors. you'll probably even be able to see some burnt transistor legs.
hafler use international rectifier hexfets. there is alot of confusion what constitutes a mosfet amplifier.
if the outputs are mosfets instead of bipolar transistors, it is a mosfet amp.
some designs are using mosfets to drive the switch mode power supply,but use bipolar output transistors.that is not a true mosfet amp.
you need to go to an electronic supplier for the repair industry.
or the manufacturers warranty depot,who will be able to order them.mosfets are very high current devices,you have to ask ...why did they fail. if they are the switch mode drivers,there is bad capacitors in that circuit
First of all is the mosfet your talking about in the output section or in the power supply section? Most car amps use mosfets in the power supply section, some use them in the output section. To test the transistors in your amp, take a digital volt meter and set it to diode check. Then take the leads and put them accross the first and third legs of the transistors. Usally the red test lead on the first leg and black test lead on the third leg of transistor. If you get a reading of 000 then transistor is shorted. If you get a reading below 600 then transistor is on it's way out if not allready or it's next to a shorted transistor that is it's complimentry output transistor. comonly you will have 2 transistors working together, one NPN and one PNP per a channel, or 4 of them in a bridged type output circuit depending on the watts and how man channels your amp has. I was just looking at the specs of this amp and it's got me confused. It says it's a 2 channel but looking at all the info on different pages it says at 4ohm:200wattsx4 and at 2ohms:300wattsx4 and 1 channel mono 600watts into 4ohms. weird for a 2 channel. anyway that is how you test your transistors. Same way for the power supply section but, you will come accross a couple or more switching diodes that look like transistors and you will get a 000 reading when you test those like I specified. They rarely go out and most of the time there is only 2 of them. They will have a diagram like a diode on the front showing you which way the power flows. Let me know what you find out. Your amp should have went to protect mode if you smoked a mosfet.
They are most likely a MOSFET type of transistor. If they are in the power supply part of the amp then you will probably need to replace all the MOSFET's in the power supply along with perhaps some gate control resistors for them. They each have their own resistors. It wouldn't hurt to see if the 494 IC in the power supply is working properly too. This IC is what sends the pulse width modulated square wave to the MOSFET's. Next you will want to test all the MOSFET's that are used as the audio output drivers and their predrivers and bias resistors. Don't forget to check the DC bias and offset on the outputs too, to make sure everything is OK there. In short, you will most likely need to go to a repair shop that can do all this and who would know what the heck I'm talking about. Good luck.