I've had this unit for a few years and only started using it last night (precautionary buying before baby arrived). It worked great right away, but tonight no luck. It's brand new, but I took it apart to see if there was any residue inside. There wasn't, it was clean. The unit produces vapour, but not enough to vent out. I think it may have something to do with the level of water? If I tilt the resevoir, I get more vapor, but still not enough. I'm not impressed, as this is perhaps hour 13 of use. And I'm using water from a reverse osmosis unit, so it's virtually mineral free.
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Feb 6, 2008 - Question about Vicks Warm Mist V745A 1 Gallon Humidifier ... Tank is full. ... for about another 5 minutes when the unit stops, reset light comes on etc. ...the humidifier since the reset light keeps going on immediately after I turn ... water in the tank because of course, the heater is on, but no water is getting ...
It's not uncommon for duct work in an older home to Bang as the furnace cycles due to age. The humidifier banging while turning on and of is mostlikely the solenoid valve; if the solenoid is bad it is actually to your benefit to replace the entire humidifier as the solenoids are very expensive, 50%+ of a new humidifier. Plus you get the 5 year parts warranty on the new unit instead of just one year on the solenoid. If you don't want to replace the entire unit you can replace the Humidistat, and that should fix the on/off cycling, however a new humidistat is included with a new unit, which again is more cost effective. They are easy enough to replace as a do it yourselfer, especially when replacing an existing unit. I hope this helps you.
The humidifier may be clogged with a calcium scale build up. Especially, if you use well water or your municipal water supply has a high chemical content.
To solve this problem do the following. Mix a 50/50 solution of White Vinegar and Bottled Distilled Water (enough to fill the tank). Empty any water that is currently in the tank and fill it with the 50/50 solution. Allow at least one hour, before turning the unit ON. After turning it ON place you hand in front of the mist nozzle to see if any mist is being generated. If it's generating mist, allow it to run until the tank is 3/4's empty. Then turn the unit OFF, unplug it and empty the remaining solution. Refill with Bottled Distilled Water and run until the tank is empty.
If the unit did not produce mist after one hour of soaking, allow it to set over night and then follow the procedure above. Generally, an overnight soaking will do the trick. In the future, I recommend using Bottle Distilled Water rather than your tap water.
Hope this helps you solve the problem. Please let me know. Thanks.
Your V5100N ultrasonic humidifier generates a fine mist by vibrating the water at an exremely high speed. The water doesn't actually evaporate until after the water mist is in the air. As the tiny water droplets evaporate in the air, the calcium and other minerals settle on your floors and furniture.
Humidifiers that evaporate the water in a filter wick, or with heat, do not generate dust because the water evaporates inside the unit and the calcium is trapped inside.
You can avoid the dust problem with your humidifier by using distilled water. Distilled water is available in most stores that sell bottled water in gallons...but be sure to choose "distilled" water, not "purified" water. Try the distilled water in your steam iron also...if you have one. It will last longer.
I also had the transformer problem and it was made worse but an HVAC guy who rewired the furance fan to get more air flow when he installed a new AC unit. He left the humidifier wired to the old fan windings which were now putting out 160 induced volts. The humidifier transformer, which was already undersized by Honeywell, never had a chance. Not sure how common this problem is but I later saw several references to the same problem on other websites and it's worth a quick check of the supply voltage to your humidifier.
Since I had an expensive humidifier and a whole cut in the furnace duct, I looked for a fix. My solution was to buy a $15 transformer from a BigBox that matched the voltage and was oversize on amps and mounted it externally to the humdifier (much like a furnace transformer is typically mounted). I then completely removed the piece-of-junk humidifier circuit board and wired the transformer directly to the water solenoid which it controlled and wired the fan and new transformer directly to 120V that is controlled by a current sensing relay (Aprilaire A50) on the furnace fan wires (and also controlled by a humidistat located on return air plenum).
It has worked fine for two years now, runs only when the fan is on and when the humidistat is asking for more humidity. A relatively cheap fix that would have only taken an hour if I had done it right from the start.
For those of you who haven't bought the Honeywell 360A yet - don't. For those of you like me that spent the money and cut holes in your duct - this is one solution.
Maybe Honeywell will wise up and redesign their transformer PCB to be much more robust. The rest of the unit is a pretty good design.
I WOULD CHECK TO SEE IF YOU HAVE ENOUGH V/A OUT-PUT ON TRANSFORMER. I DONT KNOW IF YOURS CAME WITH ITS OWN TRANSFORMER. IF IT DIDNT YOU SHOULD HAVE A MINIMUM OF A 40 V/A RATING STAMPED OR PRINTED ON THE EXISTING TRANSFORMER. IF THE TRANSFORMER IS EXTREAMLY HOT ... YOU MAY NEED A 75 V/A TRANSFORMER WITH THE SAME VOLTAGES.
INCREASING THE V/A CANNOT DAMMAGE ANYTHING IT JUST GIVES YOU MORE POWER WHEN EXCESIVE CONTROLS AND WIRING ARE ADDED TO A HVAC LOW-VOLAGE (24v) CIRCUIT.
IF YOU LIKE YOU CAN CALL ME AT 727-363-7071. I AM A RETIRED HVAC&R CONTRACTOR WITH 45 YEARS EXPERIENCE.
I HATE THE NEW SENSORS THEY HAVE TO ACTIVATE THESE NEW HUMIDIFIERS. I USE TO WIRE THE HUMIDIFIER TRANSFORMER (SUPPLIED WITH HUMIDIFIER) TO THE LINE (110V) SIDE TO THE LOW SPEED ON YOUR BLOWER MOTOR. THAT WAY THE ONLY THING THAT INTERUPTS THE CICUIT IS THE HUMIDISTAT.
YOU NEVER WANT THE HUMIDIFIER TO RUN IF YOUR SYSTEM IS NOT "CALLING FOR HEAT".
NEVER TRY TO ENERGIZE THE WATER SOLENOID THROUGH YOUR HEAT WIRE(USUALLY SMALL THE WHITE WIRE) FROM THE THERMOSTAT. THIS WILL RESULT IN BURNING YOUR HEAT ANTICIPATOR OUT ON THE T-STAT.