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HI, If the fuse is blowing of then there is problem with the inverter stage of amplifier. There is an inverter stage in the amplifier to boost the 12V to + or - 30 to 40V normally. Its a switching circuit normally uses Mosfets and ferrite core transformer and a driving IC. If the mosfet is shot then the fuse will blow off immediately after power is connected.
Check on thing remove the REM connection and then connect the power. If the fuse blows the there is fault with the Mosfet Its short. If the fuse blows only when you connect the REM then the amplifier stage is faulty.
Also check by disconnecting the speakers. if any of the speaker is faulty then there is a chance for fuse blow off.
Are you using the correct fuse? if so,
more then likely, you don't have a good ground. Try grounding to something else that has more direct connection to your frame. If that doesnt work, try getting larger power cables.
I had the same problem with my 2500w xplodes all I had to do was get a thicker cable for the ground and battery connection. What was happening, was it was needing more power then the wire and fuse could handle, so it would blow the fuse, since the higher you have it, the more power it needs to feed the watts.
I would try grounding it directly to the frame on a good part of the frame before spending another $70 on new power cables though.
Here are the troubleshooting steps for fuses blowing.
1) Remove all wiring except ground, power and remote and see if the amp powers up without blowing the fuses. If it does, the problem is in the input cables or speaker wiring.
2) The use of loudspeaker impedances below the recommended minimums will cause the amp to draw excessive current - check.
3) A shorted or grounded RCA cable may cause the fuses to blow - check. 4) If an amplifier fuse blows continually, with only +12 volt, ground and remote leads connected, the amplifier is probably defective, most likely shorted output MOSFET's. In this case the amp needs professional repair or replacement.
You do not say if the fuse blows immediately upon powering up or while the amplifier is operating. If it blows immediately, I'd check the power and ground.
If it is blowing the fuse while operating, I'd try a 30A and see if it holds. At maximum output of 100 watts times 4, the amplifier needs about 31 amps of current at 12.8V. So driving it hard could certainly blow a 25A fuse.
Start by dis-connecting the power lead at the amp, and securing it (where the bare wires are not touching ground) Now insert a new fuse then make the battery connection. If the fuse blows then you need to trace the power wire to find the short, or replace the entire wire, paying close attention to sharp edges and pinch-points that could cause this problem to reoccur.
If the fuse didn't blow, dis-connect the power lead at the battery then all of the other connections at the amp, reinstalling the power lead to the amp. With only the power lead connected at the amp and the good fuse inserted, reconnect at battery,and if the fuse blew then the problem is with the amp. and should be repaired or replaced depending on its value and the cost effectiveness of those two options.
If the problem has not yet been discovered, continue with tracing each of the remaining amp wires in that manner, as been described above.
If the amp is blowing fuses, you could have one of several problems. The only one of those problems you could fix yourself is if you have a shorted speaker. A speaker that is shorted in the voice coil can cause the fuse to blow. To check if this is causing it, dis-connect the speakers and then turn it back on. If no fuse blows there is a good chance that a speaker is shorted, take the speakers to somebody or someplace that can check them properly. If the fuse still blows with no speakers connected, you have an internal problem in the amplifier.
If the fuse blows before you even turn the amp on, you have some shorted components in the power supply. If the fuse blows after the amp gets turned on, you have some shorted components in one or both of the output channels.
Unless you have some experience with electronics and have the proper tools to troubleshoot electronics, there is really nothing you can do yourself to fix the amp if it has internal problems.
You should take it to a repair center and get an estimate for repairing it, that way you can decide if the cost of the repair is worth the price of the repair. Sometimes it is better to just buy a new amp, but you first need to know what it will cost for repairing it. There is no way to tell you how much it will cost to repair without having the amplifier in front of me and troubleshooting it to see exactly what is wrong.
If I can be more help let me know, I have been repairing car and home audio equipment for almost 18 years and can offer you good honest advice.
I used to have one of those amps also (nice amp btw) Did you try another fuse of the same size?
Is it blowing fuses everytime you put one in or did it just blow that one fuse ?
Is the conection on the battery solid and clean of corrosion build up? Because that is a good amp and if wired properly shouldnt blow out or anything and so if the speaker is not blown then maybe connection is weak somewhere? I would try disconnecting the speakers from it and try a new fuse and if it does not blow the new fuse than amp is ok? and if it does blow the new fuse right away then there must be a short somewhere in the wire or the amp. then disconnect the fuse again and reconnect the speakers and if the fuse blows with the speakers connected but doesnt blow with them disconnected then you know it is a blown speaker causing the problem.
Just currious but what size fuse do you have connected at the battery?