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GMP050-3 Ihave 3 blinks of the led is it the ventor blower or the ventor sensor i think i checked the sensor right put ohm meter accross pins then put a vacume to the hose sensor showed cont

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You should check the vent cap, it seems like the exhaust is unable to get out. If you exhaust fan was bad the unit would not start at all. And it would never spin

Posted on Feb 08, 2009

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4 red blinks, open limit switch. Replaced limit switch, still getting red blinks.


your ventor motor has to come on first to close limit switch,follow tubing from switch to ventor motor see iffu have 120 volts going to it, if 120 volts replace ventor motor assembley, no reset on board, board will reset every time u turn of power and back on

Dec 30, 2015 | Heaters

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York Diamond 80, controller is blinking Code 3 (Pressure switch stuck open).


sounds like u nee a new pressure switch. check 1\4 inch tubing going to pressure switch, remove it make sure no condesation in it., blower will only come on once flame is establised, ventor motor comes on closes pressure switch, brings on ignitor then gas the blower, make sure no blockage in vent pipe

Dec 28, 2015 | Heaters

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Lennox 80uhg3-75a-3 igniter sometimes doesn't light , left LED slow flash, right LED solid.


The ignitor can crack and cause this, also check and clean the flame sensor.

Nov 25, 2013 | Heaters

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I turn the thermostat on and the furnace tries to turn on three times before it turns itself off. The first time I see the gas blower turn on but it does not light the furnace up. The next two times I do...


This on blink of the light is a system lockout. It is caused when no gas is released to light the burner. The first thing to try is to turn the power off to the unit make sure your thermostat is off also. Turn the unit back on and make sure your gas is turned on. Then turn on the thermostat. Try this 3 or 4 times to make sure there is not air trapped in the gas line preventing ignition. If it lights after doing this you should check for a small gas leak at all fittings and shut off valves. The reason for this is to make sure you do not have a slow leak. If you smell gas turn off the furnace and your gas main valve and call a repair person. If you are unable to turn off the gas you should call the utility immediately. The cycle for your furnace is as follows. When your thermostate demands heat a signal is sent to your circuit board in the furnace and it turns on a exhaust fan to cause a draft to push air out the flu. (this fan is on 92% and higher funaces) This fan has two vacume lines that run to two vacume switches one is for the presence of vacume the other is for sensing the release of vacume. These are low voltage switches hooked into the 24v system. If the fan works and the switches sense vacume it then turns on the gas igniter this will be a glow bar and you will see it glowing. This in turn has a sensor that near it that can sense the heat from the glow bar igniter and it in turn turns on the gas by sending the 24v signal to the gas valve. If after 8 to 15 seconds the flame does not come on the system will reset and try again for a total of 3 times. If any of the above systems do not work your furnace will lock out because it thinks there is gas being dumped into the furnace. If the exhaust fan comes on you have 24v going thru your thermostat to the furnace. Then the vacume switches have to work. One is normally open the other normally closed. If you have a volt/ohm meter which can be purchased for as little as 10 to 15 dollars at a hardware store you can check these switches. You will need to set the thermostat to off and turn off voltage to your furnace for safety. Then locate the two switches by following the black rubber vacume lines from the exhaust fan housing to the switches. Pull the wires off the switches and with the meter set on ohms place the leads on the two terminals. While the meter is hooked up pull the vacume line off the fan housing and **** air in and out of the line the meter should swing back and forth as it senses vacume and the lack of it. If it does it is working. Then do the other vacume switch. Make sure to keep your wires and where the vacume lines go straight. You will also see a sensor mounted above and center where your burners are at it will have two wires going to it and it will be round it should show continuity ck it by removing the wires form it and touching the meter leads to the connectors the meter should respond showing continuity. There are two others under the burners on each side ck them the same. If any of your sensors have a pop ot button in the center press in on it yours should not this is an older version yours should be self reseting. The only other sensor is located in the blower for circulating the air. It is located on the right hand side of the blower housing with a red and yellow wire going to it. It has a reset in the center this sensor is used to trip if the heat in the blower housing gets to hot. This happens when the blower motor quits or is not able to move air fast enough due to restrictions. If the sensor has tripped you will feel and should hear an audible click when you press on the center button also if you check it for continuity it will show none and when you press the button it will show continuity. The next thing is the gas valve If all of the above work it is either the gas valve not opening or your circuit board. All of the parts are inexspensive until you get to the circuit board and the gas valve. The gas valve should be replaced by a repair person. You can replace everything else just make sure you turn off the power and pay close attention to the wiring. I hope this helps good luck. But not to down play the above make sure te top panel is in place put your hand on the gas valve and have someone turn on the thermostat. If the exhaust blower comes on and the ignitor glows you should then feel a click from the gas valve if you do not it us normally the circuit board. If you do and it still doesnt light you have no gas coming to your furnace. I hope this helps good luck

Sep 11, 2010 | Goodman GMS90703BXA Heater

1 Answer

Ihave a goodman GMPN furnace. The blower will not work, even in the fan on position. If I put in heat position, the burners ignite, but goes out. The module blinks 4 times showing open limit. The blower...


Maybe not! there is a limit switch that has opened not allowing power to pass and start the furnace. You will need to tale a Ohm meter and follow the wires thru any safety switch. In your case, it may be the thermo-disc near or over the burner box. Jump it out to test it. Now why is your blower not working (which could have been the reason why the thermo-disc opened)? Once you find which safety switch is open and you have jumped it out, take a jumper wire and jump between the R and G terminals on the circuit board. This should start your fan. If not, either the fan is stuck, the fan motor is bad or hopefully noy; the circuit board is bad.

Jan 18, 2010 | Goodman GMS90703BXA Heater

1 Answer

Wont kick wont start i see the red ligh lights blinks 2 times then 4 times what shall i do thanks


4 Flashes indicates an over heat. Either the room air blower could not push enough air over the heat exchanger due to a blocked filter or closed registers. You will need to replace one or more of the sensors to get the unit back up running. Test each sensor with an Ohm meter to find out which one blew. There may be a reset button on it if you are lucky.

Dec 30, 2009 | Goodman GMS90703BXA Heater

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GMT070-3A model was working just fine last winter. This winter it will not turn on. There are 3 blinking lights. Only yhing that changed was we had new roof and I got roofer to come check to make sure...


Hello. I can assist you. Let's begin with the pilot light. The most common reason a furnace pilot light keeps going out is the thermocouple is placed too far from the pilot light. The thermocouple is a sensor inside a steel sleeve that sits in front of the pilot light. The pilot light must heat the thermocouple so the thermocouple can keep sending an electrical charge back to the furnace, which keeps the gas valve from shutting closed. To that end, the pilot light should be adjusted so the flame it gives off is at least two inches long. Should it still keep going out, the thermocouple is faulty and needs to be replaced.

This alone may be all you need. However if after you get the pilot lit you still have the blinking lights, read on. you also may have an internal overload on the motor that opened .you can also check the motor itself by first shutting off power to the unit and physically cut the 2 power leads wire feeding the motor and OHM out the motor if you get no reading the motor is opened internally and bad ,you can check the motor to ground to check for a short.take one meter lead and attach to a good ground on the motor and the other check one motor lead at a time if you get a reading your motor is bad .you should not get any readings ( look at the wiring diagram ventor motor it should show a capacitor ,if it has one.)Capacitors are usually mounted next to or near the motors. not far away.Sometimes they have them strapped right on the motor inside a metal box.If you don't see a lump at the motor itself doubt it has a cap. also the wiring diagram will clearly show if it does. I'm sure if you look at the wiring diagram for the indoor blower motor it will show it.

If indeed you have one ( cap. ) the only way I know how to check it would be with a NON digital ohm meter the old style ones that have the needle deflections ( unless you have a capacitor tester ) remove capacitor and short out the two terminals to each other. then clip one end on one terminal other touch the other side. (OHMS scale) if you get a needle deflection then it drops back to the left side the cap. is good. (you may have to adjust the ohms scale to get a middle of the meter reading.If the needles pegs in the opposite direction you need to reverse the two meter connections. everytime you want to check the cap. you need to short the cap. terminal together I use a screwdriver holding the insulated handle and having the metal shaft of the screwdriver touch the cap. terminals.
if you get no meter movement the cap. is bad. if you get a needle movement but it goes to the opposite side and never returns then its shorted and no good . all you want is to have the needle move up then drops out and goes back. that tells you that the cap. is discharging from one side to the other to help start the motor.

Your unit is Manufactured by GOODMAN and as far as I know they have one of the better warranties out there.If you determine it is the motor Goodman bumped the warranties from 5 years parts to 10 years parts in 2006 or 2007 .

Also where is the operating instructions for this unit? last Goodman 90+ condensing furnace we installed had all the codes ( blinking lights and TROUBLSHOOTING GUIDE ) inside the install guide. So I would say to you is whoever installed your unit get the install guide from that company, person. Good luck with it.

Oct 25, 2009 | Goodman GMS90703BXA Heater

2 Answers

Bad control board?


This is a good one! I would check for a blocked vent or intake pipe first. Also check to make sure the condensate lines are free of moisture or debris. What is the code for three blinks?

Oct 11, 2009 | Goodman GMS807034ANA Heater

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