I have 2 solobaric L5s and jl audio 500/1 amp at a high volume a weird distortion comes out of the subs its almost not noticable but at the same time the low ohms light flash with the noise light only flashes as noise is coming from the subs and my subs are hooked pos to pos to amp pos neg to neg to amp neg i tried hooking pos to neg and the other pos and neg to the amp it does not make the noise then but the subs arent nearly as loud so i put them back the other way the subs pound harder than any of my friends but the noise drives me crazy how do i fix this
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Re: jl audio 500/1 amp low ohm light at high volume
I would try running the subs in parallel. Pos to Pos Dual Voice, Neg to Neg Dual Voice. Then Run + to + stereo - to - stereo on both channels.
So you have + and - running to one channel and + and - running to the other channel.
Also your LPF filter could be set too high.
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Make sure all your connections are tight , really tight . Check ground , make sure it's to clean shiney metal. Three subs are going to have a low ohm load if paralleled . These amps are not 1 ohm stable ,if below 1.5 ohm's you will have problems. They need to be series paralleled to raise the ohm load. These amps put out the same power from 4 to 1.5 ohms.
2 things, either your pushing too much power into the imputs (if using high inputs) and clipping the signal, or your running the ohms too low (lower then the amp can handle safely) by running multiple speakers of too low an ohm each. For example if your amp is 4 ohm stable and your running 2 4 ohm speakers in parallel that makes 2ohms and the amp can't handle a load that low. You can consult your manual and it will give you illistrations of wiring and ohm loads
The JL Audio 500/1 outputs 500 watts RMS into a load from 1.5 to 4 ohms. Whether your subs have 2 ohm or 4 ohm voice coils, they should be wired in series and the subs paralleled to the amp. The final load to the amp will be either 2 ohms or 4 ohms, both of which the amp can handle. If you parallel the voice coils and then parallel the subs, the final impedance will be either 0.5 ohm or 1 ohm, both too low for the amp.
You can wire each sub to a separate set of terminals or both to the same set. The terminals are connected internally. It doesn't matter which of the +'s or -'s you use.
The first thing is to meter all the speakers with a volt/ohm meter. They should read somewhere between 2-6 ohms. If they meter good try swapping the RCA's and see if there is any difference. But if both of those check out ok than. Unfortunately it would appear that your amp has a bad output channel. What seems to happen is that when the amp is cycled off and on, off and on etc. the solder on the PCB can get brittle causing problems. The only answer i can offer is to send it to JL to repair or find a good repair shop that works on car audio amps. It's getting harder to find a good tech but they are out there. If you send it to JL they have a set repair rate of $180.00 which covers the return postage while the customer pays the shipping cost getting it there. They do an excellent job and pretty much go thru the whole board and replace not only what is wrong but will also perform any mods or changes since date of manufacture.
Sounds like you need to invest in a capacitor. Those are used when subs receive a bass spike. You just a need a 1 Farat Capacitor (1,000 watts) ran between the head unit and the amplfiier to fix your issue. Also, try reducing the volume gain to half gain and low pass frequency to half gain; this will increase your clarity and make your amp less hot. This may fix it without a capacitor. Also find out what amprage your alternator is. Your alternator may not be designed to run the amplifier. Most alternators are 200 amps now if they are gold plated.
Assuming that you've confirmed that the speaker is in good working order and that the wiring isn't shorted in any way...
There are separate power supplies for the high and low amplifiers. It's possible that the one for the sub output has failed. If that's the case, the output transistors probably failed and that's what damaged the supply.
Generally, I'm willing to help people repair their amps but this is a large, complex amplifier and it should be repaired by a qualified technician.
Make sure that you are using the right Guage wire for that installation. I had the same problem with another amp. I changed both, power & ground wires to 4 Guage and it worked fine after that. maybe that would work for you.