Usually it's the ground wire feeding into the earpiece that fails. The soldered connections on the driver are usually good. Shure charges $109 plus shipping to repair E4Cs that are out of warranty. I expect that they just replace the earphones with an enitirely new set.
I just repaired two sets of E4Cs that I have. I managed to open the earpiece, unsolder the connections, re-strip the wire, flux and solder and put on new shrinkwrap protection on the cable. They're not cosmetically perfect anymore but they work prefectly.
What you do is, unscrew the metal cap that holds the angled earbud tube in place. Note that the tube itself can't be turned.
Then remove the metal ring behind it as well as the small rubber ring.
There is a 'hinge' at the cord end of the earbud, so what you should do is take a very sharp knife (I used a scalpel) and pry the top off the earbud from the end that had the ring mounted by inserting the knife between the top piece and the metal element. Note that it's attached with a little glue, so it will take some coaxing to get off.
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I use a multimeter to check the connections to the ear pieces. I set it to the diode function. The meter's test probes also have a very low dc voltage and this causes a 'click' sound in the working earpiece. Some earphones have 3 wires, others have 4 wires. In the 3-wire setup, one wire is the common wire. It goes to the ground connection of the mini plug. The 'click' sound on the left ear piece should go to the tip of the connector. The 'click' sound that you get on the right ear piece should be soldered to the 'ring' of the mini plug. The 4-wire type of earphone/ headphones cable usually have two wires that are the same colour. These are the ground or common connections for both right and left. I hope that this helps. A multimeter or vom is a necessity. Len.
Hey benblay7. Cutting the wire was not stupid at all.
Two of the wires are ground and are tied together and soldered to the ground terminal. These should be the same color, usually a shiny copper color. The ground is negative. The tip of the plug should be wired to the left side and the center is, of course, the right.
Check this out: explainthatstuff.com/howtorepairheadphones.html
Unusual to fail on both channels at the same time, however the most common cause is a break in the wire just above the 3.5mm plug. I hope I have been of help but please do not hesitate to ask if you have any further questions. I appreciate your vote if you appreciate my reply.
The cords are sealed into the earphone. You can take a multimeter and test the continutity of the either earpieces, once you are convinced that the left side is faulty, first of all use a small thin needle as the probe, use your multimeter in the continuity range, holding one end of the meter probe to the jack , inset the pin like an ijection into the wires to obtain the connection, it there is no connection out of the headphone jack, I think you can replace with a new one to be soldered. If not proceed to the earpiece to confirm, then open the sealed unit and be lucky if the earpiece is not damaged but only the wires. Good Day
This is not easy to fix as the connector is usually molded plastic. If you have access to a soldering iron of low wattage (25W) and a small tip you might be able to replace the complete cord all the way to the headphones. This type of job is not quick and wires have to be disconnected at the earpiece. Sorry.
the wire breaks after a while in ear buds ,and head phones due to the constant flexing,and moving.they probably need to be remade.by cutting out the bad part of the wire(usually close to the fitting)You can usually wiggle the wire and find where the breaks are that way.it can be a real pain re soldering ear buds.also check the plug end by wiggling the wire there.
This isn't really a solution, but should be relevant. If you think that cleaning might be the issue, don't be too afraid to really dig in there. The part you see is just a cover, not the speaker diaphragm itself. I've had the tip part fall off (well, sort of break off) and that whole assembly doesn't do anything but cover the speaker. The real deal is pretty deep in.