Question about Samsung RS2556 Side by Side Refrigerator

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I have a samsung rs2555sl refrigerator not working properly

The unit isn't stay cool in the ref and the freezer isn't freezing. it also has a huming noise. the freezer is reading 61 and the ref is reading 41. I have an rs255sl refrigerator. It stopped cooling. I defrosted it manually by opening up the plastic cover inside and found a ton of ice among the grids. Somehow the defrost stopped working. After the ice was removed, the first fews day it resumed working. But about 1 month later, the inside temperature rose again. Also it makes noise. My conclusion is that the problem is its defrost. The question is where I can get the defrost parts.

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5 Suggested Answers

vanni7
  • 163 Answers

SOURCE: SAMSUNG REFRIGERATOR MODEL SR-368 freezes and no cooling.

Hi!!! You have a defrost problem.You need to change the defrost timer mechanism.In Samsung frig the defrost timer is in the main pc board..Good luck..

Posted on Jan 05, 2009

  • 825 Answers

SOURCE: my side by side Samsung

I guess the freon gas is not circulating properly on the cooling tubes...check for any blockage or damage in the cooling tubes...

Posted on Jan 23, 2011

woodchuck789
  • 4059 Answers

SOURCE: Fridge side affected, not freezer. Unit stops

DEFROST PROBLEM
The evaporator coil behind the cover on the back wall inside the freezer will ice up under normal conditions. Every 8 to 10 hours for around 20 minutes the defrost timer (or in most newer models the electronic adaptive defrost control) will turn the defrost heater on to melt the built up ice. There is a defrost thermostat which prevents the heater from overheating the freezer by breaking the heater circuit when the temp reaches close to 32 degrees F. The entire cooling system shuts off during the defrost cycle and starts back when the timer advances through the cycle.

If this ice is not melted it will continue to build up until the air can't flow over the coil to circulate the cold air through the freezer and into the fridge. The temperature change in the fridge is usually noticed first followed by the freezer.

If the defrost thermostat is bad, it can prevent the heater from coming on OR it won't turn the heater off when it gets too warm. It is clamped to the evaporator coil at the top to sense the temp. If it appears to be misshapen it is bad.
With an ohm meter it should show continuity when cold and none when warm.
You can also bypass(disconnect the two wires plugged into it and twist them together) the thermostat to see if the heater comes on then. If it does then you know the thermostat is bad and needs replaced.

The defrost heater is located on the evaporator. It is in a tube which is at the bottom and can also go up the sides of the evaporator. On some types you can see a burnt spot if it's bad. With an ohm meter it should show continuity from end to end when disconnected from the wiring in the freezer. You can also test the wiring for voltage when it's in the defrost mode.

If you have a defrost timer you can test it. It can be located under the fridge behind the kick panel on the front. Some are in the fridge with the controls at the top. You can turn the defrost timer till it clicks and everything shuts down. The heater should now come on. If it does, replace the timer because that means the timer is not running. If it doesn't, check the heater and defrost thermostat. Turn the timer again till everything starts back up to end the defrost cycle.

If you have an adaptive defrost control instead of a timer, replace it if the heater and thermostat test good. It is located in the fridge with the controls in some models and on the back in others.

Post your model number for more specific information.

Posted on Mar 25, 2011

walesarumi
  • 6993 Answers

SOURCE: I have a Samsung RS267LBSH, which is a

Hello,
When the fridge side is getting too cold or icing up, this is because the control of the compressor has gone bad in some way...
There a few different things that could cause the unit to lose control over the temperature of the fridge side.
If your refrigerator has a damper door that opens and closes to allow cold air to move to the fridge side the damper linkage or the damper motor may have broken or gone bad.
The coils in your fridge may have frozen over and now the air does not move at all so then the ice builds up and can freeze parts of the fridge side.
The thermostat has gone bad and so now the compressor runs continually. This will not be noticed readily on the freezer side but will show up quickly on the fridge side.
Many newer model refrigerators use an electronic sensor or thermistor to read the temperature and supply the info for the circuit board and often a digital readout.
So, here is how I would go about troubleshooting this problem.
Check the coils for ice, defrost the coils with a heat gun or hairdryer, then check for the reason why they iced over. Defrost control or defrost timer bad? Evaporator fan bad?
Check the damper door to see if it is stuck in the open position. If it is then check the motor and the linkage.
Check to see if the refrigeration unit will shut down if the thermostat or digital setting is turned up to a higher temperature. If it continues to run then find the cause and fix it. It may be a bad thermostat, sensor, or control board.
Sometimes with a change is weather to a cooler climate this will be enough to also affect the inside temperatures. Make sure that a bit of adjustment in the thermostat or setting of the temperature will not solve your problem very simply.
I hope the above helps.
Good luck.

Posted on Jul 18, 2011

  • 500 Answers

SOURCE: My Samsung RS2534 side by

Hi mminottoi2004,

It uses a defrost element, built into the evaporator to melt the ice once every 1 - 2 hours. I suspect one of the sensors are failing, or the defrost element is faulty or worse.

You can test the defrost element with a decent multimeter, make sure power is getting to it, in at least 1 to 11/2 hours. If no power ever reaches the element, even when the compressor shuts off, then more likely the problem is the PCB. If power does reach it, but it does not get warm, the defrost emelent needs replacing.

Testing sensors on Samsung models are nearly impossible, so I am not even going to advise it. The resistance readings never make sense.

So in a nutshell: 1) Faulty Defrost Element or 2) Faulty Sensors or 3) Faulty PCB.

Kind Regards

JEDEMEYER1

* If this solution helped you, please accept it

Posted on Aug 15, 2011

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