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Drive chain coming off craftsman snowblower

All of sudden..drive chain started to come off....is there adjustment for chain tension...or is this wheel bearing problem...feels like bit off play?

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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SOURCE: drive chain loose and poped offmy snowblower

Two things you can do. First if you look close you may see a spot where you can adjust the chain tension. Nest your chain should have what is called master link. Look close and you will see a clip that undoes the link. Pull the link out and the chain will come apart. If you are not mechanically inclined take it to any small engine shop and they will take a link out for you and then you will be home free.Hope this helps. donnyb60

Posted on Mar 23, 2009

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95 gpz chain tighten how to


hey Dominico,
This is the way PROFESSIONAL mechanics do a chain/sprocket check and drive chain alignment and tension.. Proper chain tension is very important to the life of your chain and sprockets and performance of your bike. First, you need to check to see if the chain/sprockets need replacing. (Chain and sprockets are ALWAYS replaced as a set (-all-3)..if you replace a chain on worn sprockets.. the chain will stretch out QUICK.. and if you put new sprockets with a worn chain.. the sprockets will be worn out QUICK too!!) ...To do this..the bike needs to be on the center stand or bike stand...NOT on the side stand...
...now...--remove the chain guard-- next..Sprocket check time - take one hand and squeeze the chain (grab the chain above and below the swingarm) at the point between the axle and the swingarm bolt.. as hard as possible. to take all the slack out of the chain and put the tension completely around the back sprocket.. while you are squeezing the chain as hard and tight as possible.. - with your other hand - try to lift/pull the chain off the rear sprocket.. IF you can pull the chain off enough to see if there is a .200" or 5mm max. gap between the chain and sprocket - under the chain... or MORE THAN A HALF a tooth groove under the chain..or the chain pulls up more than two teeth...OR the teeth on either sprocket are "pointed thin" or rounded inside....you need to replace the chain/sprockets.
...ONCE you are sure the chain/sprockets are good..its time to CORRECTLY align and adjust the chain tension. Loosen the axle nut.. DO NOT remove it.. now - tap it gently to make sure its loose...loose the chain adjuster nuts.. back them off a good bit, but do not remove them...you may,also need to loose the rear brake caliper mounts ..you should be able to move the rear wheel forward and backward with your hand.(this is to assure you have sufficient "looseness" to make the proper adjustment...NOW - pull the rear tire backwards until it stops.. - run the adjuster nut(s) until they are just snug..ALIGNMENT - This is CRITICAL - (did you remove the chain guard yet?) - do that now. You must be able to see down the entire length of the chain (above the swingarm)..The chain MUST RUN IN A STRAIGHT LINE!! .. The little marks on the swingarm are just "guides".. never use them as perfect.. the only way to assure CORRECT ALIGNMENT is a visual check of the chain to make sure its in a straight line!!!! - ...ANY bend, crook, or mis-alignment will cause premature wear and tear, and make it harder for your engine to make it turn. - Now - Rotate the wheel and find the tightest point of the chain... there is one, and its normal... LEAVE the tight point located between the two sprockets on the top of the swingarm. This is where you will "feel" for the correct tension.
The biggest thing most people miss when adjusting the tension is having the AXEL/NUT and the SWINGARM PIVOT SHAFT and the COUNTERSHAFT C/L (front sprocket shaft) IN A STRAIGHT LINE - ALL THREE ARE ON THE SAME PLANE!!!!!
. NOW, You may have to get a buddy to help pull the swing arm up.. (I use a tie down strap through the rear wheel and over the seat pulled tight enough to make AND KEEP the STRAIGHT LINE!!)
..Once you have established the straight line - --- - --- - and MADE SURE the chain is RUNNING STRAIGHT on both sprockets.. NOW _ its time to adjust the tension. There WILL be a tightest and loosest point of the chain..(normal).. you MUST adjust the tension using the TIGHTEST point of the chain....set the tension so you can move the chain up and down (total movement) about 1 3/8 inch to a max of 2 inches!! Once you have established the chain is straight and the tension is correct, its time to TIGHTEN EVERYTHING in order... start with snugging the axle nut.. then snug the adjuster nuts more..-- DOUBLE CHECK you chain alignment.. now - tighten the axle - TIGHT!!... tighten the adjuster nuts..lock down the lock nuts.. tighten the caliper.. TRIPLE CHECK the alignment... double check the tension...double check all the nuts... install the chain guard... REMOVE whatever you use the keep the straight line straight..

TRIPLE CHECK ALL NUTS!!! NOW ROTATE THE REAR WHEEL AND CHECK FOR BINDING AND MAKE SURE THE CHAIN IS WORKING CORRECTLY AND NOT TOO LOOSE..
KNOW you have done a job correctly!! (I am a factory trained mechanic, race engine builder, port work guy, race tuner.)..
GREAT JOB!!

Aug 08, 2017 | Motorcycles

1 Answer

Can you adjust the tension on the wheel?


What sort of tension?
Rim loose on spokes: evenly tighten the spokes to add tension ( very high skill required to keep the rim true. Pro help should be sought)
Too much wheel side play: tighten the wheel to frame axle bolt (unless the bearing is gone, then you'll need new hub bearings).
Chain tension too loose: Move the rear wheel away from the pedals by loosening the axle bolt, pulling back to remove most (but not all) or the slack from the chain. Pay attention to the alignment of the wheel in the frame. Tighten the nuts back down

Feb 17, 2015 | Cycling

1 Answer

Checking connecting rod bearings


Hi there, I would expect to hear con rod bearings rattling when the engine is revved whilst stationary. A starter motor can cause peculier noises when faulty, worth checking. But if the noise is only when moving while still in gear I would suspect an output bearing on the gearbox. First check the drive train tension, if this is too tight this will overload the bearings. It does sound like it could be somewhere between the crankshaft output sprocket and the rear wheel. As with all things best to try the easy bits first before stripping the engine. Good luck ride free!

Feb 26, 2014 | Harley Davidson FLSTC Heritage Softail...

1 Answer

2004 ford freestar rumbling noise as I drive down the road at about 45-60mph - it sounds and feels a bit like I hit a rumble strip but it is coming from the engine


Sounds like a half shaft. Reach around behind each wheel and see if there is play in the shaft that leads from the wheel to the transmission. There should be no play. Other possibility is a bearing hub. Jack up car, grab the tire at 9 and 3 o'clock. Shake wheel if there is movement not from the tie rod then it is the bearing hub.

Jan 24, 2014 | Ford Freestar Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Automatic trans 1990 1.8gl drive chain tensioner hold down tab bent lost differential oil into bell housing . Tensioner o ring exposed and tensioner turns free with no feel of tightening chain.Car was...


Hi Kechly,
I'm a bit confused as to what exactly happened with your vehicle. What drive chain tensioned are you talking about? I believe the engine in your vehicle uses a timing belt. As far as my knowledge extends, I don't know of any chain in the drive. If the differential has run dry that will result in a rumbling sound which comes from worn or damaged bearings. I would advise you begin by inspecting those. If the vehicle is able to move at speed then it would seem that the auto box isn't being affected by the fault. Some clarification regarding your fault would help a correct diagnosis.
Regards Johngee10

Mar 03, 2011 | Volkswagen Jetta Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Rear wheel has slight play in bearing


What year and what model??

Yes, there is some slight play in the bearing.

Rotate the wheel with bike on center stand and see if you feel any grinding or roughness. If you are inclined, you can drain the final drive oil and check for any large bits of metal that would indicate impending bearing failure.

Oct 02, 2010 | BMW R 1150 RT (ABS Motorcycles

1 Answer

How do I thighten the chain on a 99 Kawasaki ZRX1100


Near the back of the rear sprocket assy you will see a bolt facing forward. This bolt, when tightened, tightens the chain and visa-versa. To adjust the bolt, loosen the locking nut a just a little bit then adjust the bolt itself. It is best to make this adjustment while the rear wheel is off the ground, so you can spin the wheel and feel for chain tension. Once you have adjusted the chain tension to where you can just barely wiggle it 1/4" tighten the locking nut back against the frame. It is important to get this nut tight, as if it loosens, so will your chain.

Don't overtighten the chain as you will wear it out more quickly and wear down the sprocket teeth (expensive repair). Too loose and you risk a chain skip at high torque.

Aug 29, 2009 | kawasaki ZRX 1100 R Motorcycles

2 Answers

Slapping noise after chain adjust


hi there,,1,5, to two inches is correct,, is that all the way round by the way, sometimes u can have a tight spot,,it seems correct sometimes wen adjusted in one position,, but spin the rear wheel round it will either slacken quite a bit,, or go very tight,with no play in it,,,your cush drive rubbers behind the rear sprocket housing on the wheel,, may have a bit of wear in it,, or the chain haz a stiff link in the line,, and needs more oiling,, if the chain is dry ,and right now in salty conditions it will be, then that will cause chain slap,,,

Jan 21, 2009 | 1987 Honda CBX 250

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