Not sure if I have some sort of "short" or what. You press the "power" button to turn the unit on, then there's a quick flash of light on the LCD (like it is about to turn on), but it then won't turn on. Nothing. Any ideas? Trying to avoid a $200 plus servicing/repair. And still prefer my 1180 over computer programs.
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Re: BR-1180 won't power-up
I Own This Unit And I Tell You What I Love It And Cant See Myself Using A Computer Anytime Soon. You Can Open It Up And Check For Loose Connections By Removing The Screws Shown Here
Youll Wanna Remove The Disk Drive Cover First Indicated By The Blue Dots. Once Inside There Arent Many Connections To Check But Now You Can Unplug The Hard Drive And Try Powering The Unit On Again. See If You Get The Same Result. Once Thats Done Plug The Hard Drive Back In And Try Again To See If It Works. If It Doesn't Call Roland Theyre Costumer Support Is Awesome And They Can At least Give You An Idea Of What May Be Wrong.
Roland Corporation U.S.
5100 S. Eastern Ave.
Los Angeles, CA 90040-2938
Also Very Helpful Is This Guide On How To Remove The Hard Drive And Replace It Found Here. I Hope Some Of This Helps.
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Turn the unit on, and while the display says "Please Wait", press and release the Panic button. Press the right arrow button till the display says "Hard RESET". Press Enter, then the button under "Yes" in the display.
It is something that will be localized to the power supply board. But double check to make sure the phantom power is switched off.
If you are up to opening it up, look for loose connectors, check fuses, look for bulging filter capacitors- these need to be replaced and they may be the only real casue of the problem. The caps may not show visually, but if you try carefully powering the board up, a faulty capacitor will sometimes feeling like it is boiling inside- at that point- it is boiling and shorted out. Replace with same working voltage or one step higher, and same capacitance value.
There are sometimes physically larger resistors on the power supply board- these sometimes double as fuses- intentional and unintentional. Check them for continuity, they will not show anything physical if they fail.
Bad solder connections can also cause problems, as can faulty rectifiers in the power supply, even voltage regulation devices can fail. These however do show physical signs of failure in many cases.
Have patience with this as it may be simple, or it may not be simple.
Hi, I don't know if you still need this information but here's a button by button guide that I've done. I've got an E-70 myself. Now if I can only find that **** internal battery that stores all my sounds I'd be laughing.
Press Menu (the button on the right underneath the light-up display), make sure the arrows are highlighted around the 'Param' setting and if not, turn the jog dial anti-clockwise to get the arrows there. Press Enter and then on next screen press Enter 5 times to see the Transpose display flash and use the jog dial to change from -11 semitones to +11 semitones and press Enter or backup to come out of this screen. Now, whenever you press the Transpose button (the grey button on the bottom right-5th button in from the right), the keyboard will automatically change. You can store different sounds in different keys, so for example I used to play Knocking On Heaven's Door and had this lovely riff when I played in G but it didn't sound the same if I played it in A so I transposed it to play and performed live in A while playing it in G. As long as you what presets you use for different songs, it's quite easy to get used to.
If you haven't had a response or sorted it out yet, I hope this helps.
Power supply. Most likely an electrolytic is failing. It may or may not show any signs of it. Other possibilities are bad solder connections, loose wire connections, or possibly a bad MOSFET if it uses a switchmode power supply. Also check the general construction to make sure nothing is shorting internally. Sometimes wires get pinched.
It MAY be waiting for an UPDATE of firmware via USB. In other words you may have triggered an update mode that it will not exit without sending an update. The second possibility that comes to mind is that one of the buttons or the switch behind it may be stuck which can lock up the processor. Look for a button stuck in or that feels un-normal.
I am not positive on this but I would try to clear all of the loops. Try holding the right pedal for about 5 seconds.
If that does not work, hold the right pedal for about seconds while you turn off the unit. Release the right pedal then turn the unit back on.
Hope that helps!
A BARE USB cable should NOT have caused any problem. If it was an "Active" type cable that does a conversion something might have happened. Another possibility is you had a static charge on you and the static did damage. Another possibility is if the connector really wasn't the SAME type and pins were shorted. Turn off the power and with a bright light compare the connectors to see if this last possibility might be the case. Also look for signs of arcing or bent pins. If the connector was forced, then it is possible the circuit board was cracked.. In any event servicing is required.
Search the web for a "Factory Reset" sequence for the unit. Usually you have to hold a button or a combination as you turn power on.