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Re: Bottom oven burner will not light
If your Kenmore is like most Whirlpool-built gas ranges, surface ignitors similar to those used in gas dryers are used.
These devices have a conductive path fused to a ceramic substrate and are common failures.
There are separate units for bake and broil burners.
Check the Sears website under the 'Parts' subsection and enter your range model number.
This should bring up a choice of things to do and if you ask for the illustrated parts breakdown, you can see where the ignitor is located, get its part number, and generally order from that same site.
It's mildly disturbing that the range continues to allow gas to flow unignited.
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The problem beleive it or not is that the bake igniter is weak ,and it is not drawing the proper amprage to open the gas valve.If you have a amp meter access the wires to the bake igniter(usually behind the storage drawer) and check for 3.3-3.6 amps when oven is set to bake by clamping the meter around ONE wire wire of igniter make sure only one wire,either one and not both. if amp draw less than 3.3-3.6 amps replace bake igniter. I know it seems improbable that if the igniter comes on that it could be the problem.Professional appliance technicians who would charge a average of $250.00 to repair your oven,have found when the igniter comes on yet the oven won't heat that a weak igniter is the cause 100% of the time
FOR THE SURFACE BURNER NOT LIGHTING
The holes on the burner espically those around where the electrode are dirty/clogged. By using a paper clip/safety pin to push in and clear the holes then clean the burner up with some steel wool the burner should light.
Hi. This sounds like a weak igniter, the symptoms usually are: burner won't light, or takes longer than normal to ignite the burner, may or may not smell gas in the oven, does not maintain set temperature or burner does not come on fully. On gas ovens, a glo igniter is like a light bulb, the more you cook, the faster it wears out. Bottom line, needs to be replaced. Good luck.
Find the bake ignitor (you may need to remove bottom drawer or oven cavity floor to get to the ignitor). Turn on the bake. If the bake ignitor comes on (starts glowing after a few seconds) - check the amperage on the bake ignitor wires when it's on. Should be 3 - 3.6A. If less than 3A - replace ignitor. If the ignitor does not come on - check the voltage on the ignitor, should be the line voltage 110-120v AC. If there is a line voltage on the ignitor and it's not coming on - replace.
Part numbers, the first one being the direct replacement: WB13T10045, 12400035, WB13K21, WB2X9998, SGR412, NR020, 5303935066, 814269, 9753108. Those ignitors are interchangeable, if you can splice the wires, if not comfortable splicing wires - order the first one in the list above.
First you will need to verify if the igniter is coming on for the oven burner when the oven is turned on. You will need to remove the oven bottom cover. There is usually two screws at the back bottom of the oven compartment that holds the bottom on. If there are no screws then it should just lift out. You may need to slide the bottom away from you then lift from the back. You will need to remove the oven racks to make enough room to lif the bottom out. Once removed you should be able to see the burner(you may also need to remove a heat spreader on the burner). Now turn on the oven and watch for the hot surface igniter to start to glow. If it does then you will need to make sure the gas orfice and venturri for the burner are not plugged with debris. You can use a small can of compressed air to try and dislodge any debris. Then give the oven gas valve a light tap with a screwdriver or a wrench. Oven gas valve is usually located at the bottom of the oven. Remove the bottom storage compartment to reach it. If you tap it and the burner comes on there may have just been debris in the valve and you may have cleared it. Then turn the oven off and back on completely several times. If the burner comes back on you should be ok if it does not then it could be a weak hot surface igniter or a bad olven gas control valve. Now going back to the start if the igniter does not come on you will need to verify if the igniter is getting voltage. If it is then test the igniter with a ohm meter. The reading should usually be between 500 to 700 ohms. A common problem with hot surface igniters is that they will crack. Examine the igniter for any visible cracks. If the igniter is not getting voltage then you will need to verify that all wires are properly connected and none have come loose. Look for any melted wires from the self cleaning process. You may need to dis-assemble the back of the range to see if any wires have come loose or melted. Now I need to stress to you that safety is important. Be very careful performing these procedures. You can get shocked or possible burned.
You likely have a bad ignitor. It's like a mini element that heats up and then ignites the gas once the valve releases it. When the ignitor gets old it doesn't glow bight enough or draw enough amperage so the gas valve won't open. If you set bake and see a glow coming from under the plate in the oven but the burner never lights that's your culprit. They probably cost about $50-$80. Good luck!
oven never lights , but shows its on,? never heats past 100 deg?? soundslike a bad bake ignitor to me take down the model number and order a bake ignitor, installs on the bake burner, under the floor of oven, with just a few screws and 2 wires.
If memory serves me,there are a couple of screws on oven floor.Remove panel.Sounds like ignitor is the culprit.It feeds back to control.It may glow and light but unless it is sending full signal,gas valve will not open fully and oven will take forever to heat.