Question about Polaris New Genuine Polaris Snowmobile Accessories / X Treme Sidecut / Out of Bound

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2005 polaris 900rmk wont run

My sled is very hard to start it takes about 15 pulls before it will stay running. then as soon as you give it trottle it just bogs out almost like it goes out on one cylender but im thinking its a gas problem i have cleaned my carbs an changed my fuel filter cleaned my gilitines reprimed my fuel system but still nochange

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  • 10 more comments 
  • squirl69er Feb 07, 2009

    by saying i cleaned the carbs i mean the trottle bodies and the only lines going to them were antifreeze lines so i realy didnt see any passages to clean

  • squirl69er Feb 07, 2009

    would the fuel pump cause this to happen

  • squirl69er Feb 07, 2009

    i cant seam to see any jets the engine is fuel injection

  • squirl69er Feb 07, 2009

    THIS SLED HAS CARB BODIES THERE IS NO MUCH TO CLEAN ON THE CARB TROTTLE BODYS IT HAS INJECTORS BUT I CANT FIND THEM SHOULD THERE BE PRESSURE ON THE FUEL SYSTEM WHEN IT ISNT RUNNING IF SO HOW MUCH

  • squirl69er Feb 10, 2009

    WILL since we last talked i have pulled my fuel pump checked all my lines no sign of any leaks first when this trouble started i found when looking that my cable that controls my oil injection was broken so i replaced it im just wondering if i didnt put it back with the right ajustment would this make it run bad it has used alot of oil since mabe half a liter just from starting it to try it a few times also it will go ahead without stalling but when you put it in reverse soon as you trottle up it dies and sometimes back fires

  • squirl69er Feb 10, 2009

    would to much oil make it backfire

  • squirl69er Feb 10, 2009

    I did a compression test and both cylinders are at 105 psi is this exceptable

  • squirl69er Feb 10, 2009

    i just pulled my y off and there is exessive oil laying in pipe if i stop oil feed and run the engine with straight gas this should burn off exsis oil build up then ajust my oil feed to lessen oil feed correct

  • squirl69er Feb 10, 2009

    i just pulled my y off and there is exessive oil laying in pipe if i stop oil feed and run the engine with straight gas this should burn off exsis oil build up then ajust my oil feed to lessen oil feed correct

  • squirl69er Feb 10, 2009

    to lesson the oil feed i should lossen cable out correct

  • squirl69er Feb 10, 2009

    where is the ECT senser located

  • squirl69er Feb 11, 2009

    THANKS ROCKITMAM AND THANKS TO ALL OF YOU GUYS WHO ALSO POST YOUR OPINON I WILL JUST BITE THE BULLIT AND DO THE TOP END ILL LOOK FORWARD TO CHATING WITH YOU GUYS WITH MY NEXT BREAK DOWN

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14 Answers

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Buy some gas line antifreeze... it sounds like you have water in your fuel

Posted on Feb 10, 2009

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You have a vacuum leak while running try to spray carb cleaner at base of carbs and intake(if applicable)listen for engine speed change are tou sure your floats and carbs are adjusted properly but i would look for vacuum leak possible cracked hose also how are your spark plugs/wires always make sure you use the correct ones sometimes if you replace NGK with a cheaper plug you can have some driveability hope this helps good luck

Posted on Feb 10, 2009

  • rachel stephens Feb 10, 2009

    The air screw (next to the air box) is usually set at 1 full turn out from gently bottomed. Adjust in or out in 1/4 turn increments until it idles smooth. Slide needles are usually set at the middle notch and the idle stop screws are set so that it will idle between 1800 to 2000rpm

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The compression does sound low. try priming the cylinders with some oil first and redo compression test. Some reed carbs can be damaged by compressed air or the jets can be over cleaned where the shop air bored the jets bigger caused an over fueled engine that bogs down upon acceleration. Listen to the motor. if it backfires through the exhaust there is too much gas and the spark can't burn it all off so a exhaust backfires happens. I am having the same problem with my polaris and am changing carbs all together. Oil in the exhaust is normal to an extent. With the bad engine running of course there is going to be oil in the pipe, its not burning right either. make sure the stator is still putting out the right voltage too, before doing a tear down. these two strokes can last forever, as long as there is oil. hope this can help.

Posted on Feb 10, 2009

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You are correct. However oil in the exhaust is indicative of worn or damaged rings, pistons, or valve stem seals. In the off season, you will require an entire overhaul to diagnose.

You will retain valve pressure at operating temps, but when everything cools down - the tolerances show in the way of oil leaking into the cylinder(s).

This will gunk up your engine and make it difficult to run (as you have already stated), and hard to start (also you indicated above).

Not fixing the problem will lead to a bigger expense down the line.

I would suggest a total tear down during the off-season to remedy the problem.

One thing of note before diving in is the oil pump - if it has failed, it will dump oil as well!! If the cable pulley inside the pump broke, it will dump as a failsafe - better to have too much than too little!!

Thanks for using FixYa - a FixYa rating is appreciated!!

Posted on Feb 10, 2009

  • blueextc3221
    blueextc3221 Feb 10, 2009

    There should be notches, however - yes - for less oil flow, the cable is slackened.

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You may need to adjust the Fuel,Air mixture on the carb. Usually on carbs there is a set of flat head screws that you adjust to compensate for temperature change. Some time svibration over time can cause this to get off its settings and needs to be replaced. If its taking alot of pulls and is finely starting, then im guessing there is is to much gas getting into the carb and is flooding it, or the air mixture is too low and its causing the fuel not to burn, which causes stalling.

I would purchase a repair manual first thing and see if it has the settings in there.
Usually it will say its 3 or 4 1/2 counter clock wise turns from from lcoking position. WHich means you tighten the air instake/fuel intsake, whichever your adjust, screw in all the way till it stops, then unsrew it the amount of turns it says to have it in the right position.

Some times using a marker or something to mark the screw so you can easily count the rotations.

Now this may not be the answer, it could just be you have a fauled up carberator that need to be cleaned/ rebuilt.

This all depends on your level of involvement. If you have thmechanical know how, or think you do, go for it, but only blame yourself if you mess up.

If you dont and dont want to try or end up making things worse, find your self a shop to take it too, or get yourself a GearHead friend who will help in exchange for a Six pack.

The later usually works out best:)

Good luck

Posted on Feb 10, 2009

  • Chris Busch
    Chris Busch Feb 11, 2009

    There is obviously many different things the problem could be. If it has fuel injectors, then it doesnt have a carberator and vice versa. The Air intake on the throttle could be clogged.



    There would be some rpessure on the fuel lines but not alot while off, just a little.



    If it has a fuel injection the the issue may just be a low idle speed that needs to be adjusted.



    I've never worked on snow mobiles but engines are generaly similar and i have worked on alot of scooters and cars.



    You could have some bad spark plug wires, maybe on eof them isnt on all the way or is worn.



    also, has it been sitting for a while? like a month or more with the same gas in it?



    If so, the fuel has gone bad, change it or run some STA-BULL throu it. Most auto parts places carry iot and it raises the octane and removes the deposits. You supposed to put it in before storring the vehicle for extended amounts of time, but mixing some it to the fuel now will still help.



    Had to do it to my scooter when it sat for three months un-used.



    Good luck

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  • 416 Answers

Hard start and power lose can be adressed to spark plugs/wiring problems. Check/replace spark plugs/wires.
Good Luck

Posted on Feb 10, 2009

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I would suggest you follow the recall as stated by my colleague Benimur

Posted on Feb 10, 2009

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This xsometimes is caused by dirt , impurities and oxide from fuel tank clogging the fuel lines .

Blow the fuel lines with a compressor, from motor to tank, to avoid blowing debris into fuel pump or carb.

Posted on Feb 08, 2009

  • 2 more comments 
  • Ginko
    Ginko Feb 10, 2009

    If you are not getting fuel to the engine, then it is either the fuel pump or a clogged fuel line.

    Check first if fuel is getting to the fuel pump, if not unclog fuel lines blowing inside with a comptressor, as explained in my previous comment.Blow from motor to tank, to avoid pushing debris toward fuel pump or carb.

    If you have fuel getting to pump, and pump working , and pumping to carb, then it is not a fuel problem, in that case ensure that there is spark and check timing.


  • Ginko
    Ginko Feb 10, 2009

    If you have worked at the oil injection, then the most likely is that you need to clean the exhaust valve, or do timing again:


    Clean Your Snowmobile's Exhaust Valve

    Timing on a two stroke engine is asymetrical, and it is not easy to do.

    WikiAnswers - How do you set timing for 2 stroke engine

    Let me know how it goes and give me feedback on this.

    Thanks.


  • Ginko
    Ginko Feb 10, 2009

    Sounds like you did not replace the oil injection cable in the correct way.

    This is probably keeping the oil injection open, the engine wastes a lot of oil , and clog valves and spark plug with burnt oil, that is your problem.

    Buy a new oil injection cable instead of using the adapted one, and assemble it on the right way.


  • Ginko
    Ginko Feb 10, 2009

    Excessive oile in the mixture should not cause backfire, but rather misfiring.

    A bad timing can cause backfiring, I already explained you how to check timing on this kind of engines, I will publish it again:

    If you have worked at the oil injection, then the most likely is that you need to clean the exhaust valve, or do timing again:


    Clean Your Snowmobile's Exhaust Valve

    Timing on a two stroke engine is asymetrical, and it is not easy to do.

    WikiAnswers - How do you set timing for 2 stroke engine

    Let me know how it goes and give me feedback on this.





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Sir,
Check the throttle safety switch. Have you adjusted the idle screw since the carb cleaning?
Have you checked the plugs after it tries to idle and dies? Look to see if they are wet or dry.

Have you done a compression check? Low comp will cause a hard starting engine.

For the choke cable make sure it's adjusted so that it fully seats on and closes off the fuel passage in the carb. The cable could be sticking in the sheath or even binding in the carb. Inspect the rubber tip for deteroration/cracking that could cause a leak path also.

Posted on Feb 07, 2009

  • Asfiya Ahamed
    Asfiya Ahamed Feb 10, 2009

    Sir,


    Click this forum link you have all the troubleshooting problem listed here. check out and solve your problems.


    thanks
    good luck

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  • 2,559 Answers

You need to check these(All can cause similar problems)

  1. AIR TEMP SENSOR
  2. REED VALVES
  3. THROTTLE POSITION SENSOR
  4. FUEL INJECTORS
  5. FUEL PUMP

Please rate this a fixya

Posted on Feb 07, 2009

  • 3 more comments 
  • Randy Hough
    Randy Hough Feb 10, 2009

    Yes,improper oil amounts being pumped in will make it run bad and too much will foul the plug,make it smoke,and a few other things

    Not enough will burn the piston,and score the the cylinder,Etc.....











    Please rate this a fixya

  • Randy Hough
    Randy Hough Feb 10, 2009

    That is down to service limit,It may be time for a top end job.

  • Randy Hough
    Randy Hough Feb 10, 2009

    No,running straight gas will burn the engine bearings.Wash the pipe out.

  • Randy Hough
    Randy Hough Feb 10, 2009

    Loosening is correct.

  • Randy Hough
    Randy Hough Feb 11, 2009

    You are dealing with a 2 stroke engine and most of the solutions posted are copied and pasted from who knows where.Or just just some general statement being tossed out to see if you accept it.

    although some of the replies are helpful,most do not apply to 2 stroke engines.



    Here are the known problems that we know of for sure.


    1. Your compression is at the service limit.

    2. You engine was ran without oil for some time.(amount unknown at this time)

    3. You have since repaired the oiler(only to be over oiling the motor)

    4. All the post about adjust this or that will not work.(Nor will antifreeze,air pressure,A gear head buddy,Checking the jets,or any of the other junk posted.)



    Here are the facts


    1. Your compression should be about 135-140 (105 is not acceptible)

    2. You should never run straight gas in a 2 stroke.(That is the same as running a 4 stroke without any oil)

    3. Running to much oil can cause what appears to be a back fire.(this is due to post ignition (ignition that comes to late in the stroke.)

    4. Incorrect timing will also cause a back fire.

    5. You cannot adjust jet on fuel injectors.(you can replace them with larger ones)

    6. You can't adjust the carb, since you don't have one (your's has a throttle body)

    7. The only 1/4 turn that will do you any good is the one you add to the bill for a new top end.

    8. It's not a sensor issue.

    9. I could go on and on,but I think you get the point.

    If you need any help from a 2 stroke guy,Feel free to ask.

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Hi and welcome to FixYa,

As in most engines, your described condition could indicate fuel starvation. This would cause both the hard starting as well as the stall/bogs down/die on throttling up. In your particular model, this could be a leak in the fuel line from the fuel source, to the fuel pump, to the fuel filter, to the high pressure injector pump. Repairs would require careful inspection to determine where the leak is. Alternately, it could be a stuck or clogged injector. A temporary remedy would be to use injector cleaner and see it will improve matters.

Incidentally, there was a recall on some early models of the Polaris 900 RMK 151. Pls click here for more details.

Good luck and thank you for using FixYa.

Posted on Feb 07, 2009

  • Louie  Role
    Louie Role Feb 10, 2009

    Your Polaris is powered by a 2-stroke liberty engine with 2 cylinders. Based on this and on your last post, the injector (2T oil) is stuck open or adjusted to open too much. What happens then is the air/fuel mixture is diluted with so much 2T oil making it hard to start and would not burn fast enough that they tend to settle at the bottom of the combustion chamber. On gassing it up, the engine is flooded with the same 2T oil making the fuel harder to burn. One verification is if and when it do starts, it will be with a lot of smoke. Perhaps you may need to look over again how the injector and cable control were adjusted, reduce if necessary. Adjust till satisfied of no smoke on idling. One sign that there is little or no 2T mixing with the air/fuel would be no smoke even on acceleration/high RPM and the engine overheats fast.

  • Louie  Role
    Louie Role Feb 10, 2009

    As a temporary workaround and to ensure a quick start and eventually burn residual 2T, deliberately block the 2T oil injector and replace the sparkplugs. This would ensure pure gasoline/air to be entering the combustion chamber. In the assumption that there was too much oil in the combustion chamber, doing this would result in:


    • easy start;

    • allow the engine to heat up faster burning off excess oil in the combustion chamber, exhaust port and exhaust chamber.
    Soon as the excess oil has been burned off, then un-block the injector, adjust oil pressure/flow just enough. At idling there should be not that much smoke or none at all. Oil pressure/flow should only increase when throttled up/revved/accelerating.

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1. you need to have your compression checked. this happened to me and one cylinder was toast. they should be around 120 psi and not more than 5% difference between the two. if not clean the carbs

2. you need to take the carbs apart and have them cleaned and make sure they are adjusted properly. you also should make sure your choke is not stuck open . check theintake boots for leaks and also make sure your clutches are cleaned up and lubricated

Thanks

Posted on Feb 07, 2009

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  • 250 Answers

Check your jetting, Clip postion on needle jet. floats could be sticking. Carbs may still be dirty.

Posted on Feb 07, 2009

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This is always caused by a tiny piece of dirt in one of the fuel metering jests, I know u say you cleaned the carbs but based on past experience it is the problem. Use high pressure air to blow out every passage and jet.

Posted on Feb 07, 2009

  • 2 more comments 
  • yadayada
    yadayada Feb 07, 2009

    when u say carb's I assume u mean carb's.

  • yadayada
    yadayada Feb 07, 2009

    how is the compression, do u have a scored cylinder?

  • yadayada
    yadayada Feb 07, 2009

    what is the working fuel pressure? should be around 40PSI, test it.

  • yadayada
    yadayada Feb 10, 2009

    does this sysyem use a cold start fuel injector, if not disconnect the ECT sensor and see if the engine starts ok, if it does replace the ECT.

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