Question about Toshiba Satellite 1415-S173 Notebook

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Motherboard voltage solution for hibenation?

I read a post that said the following and would like some input or someone to elaborate and explain how to maybe fix:

"Still sounds like it has gone into hibernation.
But the motherboard may also have a problem ..i.e not sufficienct voltage to bring it out of hibernation"

Could this be the reason why my computer won't come out of hibernation? It makes a noise when I open the lid like it is trying to load and the resume line at the bottom shows but after that it stops making any noise and it stays black. It sounds like it wants to restart and then it stops. If someone can help thanks.

I know that if you remove the hibernate option from power management it won't go into hibernate mode but it use to do well when it went into hibernate mode before, why isn't it working now?

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  • yadira_spenc Feb 06, 2009

    I fixed my problem! Went to the bios setup page when you restart computer and on the system start up option it was as "boot" and i changed it to "resume". this fixed the problem. I went to hibernate and when I opened the lid of my laptop it brought back what i was working on. I don't even know how that setting got changed in the first place but that did the trick.

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Press the FN key and the F5 key at the same time. You MIGHT have it in other monitor mode.

Posted on Feb 06, 2009

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I have a Hotpoint HSS25IFMDWW that is not cooling, but condenser fan is running


Most times this is caused by the compressor start relay and overload wearing out and sometimes the motherboard is the root cause. Either way someone needs to use a voltage meter and test voltage at compressor when board relay is on. The reading should come up to very close to your home voltage from outlet. If the board is bad we will know by this test. Your model number HSS25IFMDWW is basically the same as the GE PSS26MSRSS Artica Profile so click here for a=> Service Manual Here is a link to motherboard=> WR55X10942 MotherBoard If you are planning to do this yourself and have questions I have given the above links as something to look over and follow with me. Most times the Start Relay Part Number=> WR07X10052 Start Relay
and overload Part Number=> WR08X10028 Overload are the reason for failure. It also does not hurt to remove the=> WR62X80 Run Capacitor at take it to someone that can test capacitor. Take it to someone that has a test meter that check capacitance. Either way I will help you if needed, just let me know, Thank You, Sea Breeze

Nov 26, 2011 | Refrigerators

1 Answer

Tumbles but does not heat - instructions to R and R heating element


Have you confirmed the heating element is bad, or are you assuming? There's more to the dryer heating circuits that can cause a no heat problem besides the heating element.

If your dryer runs, but does not heat, the following link explains how to troubleshoot an ELECTRIC dryer with a no heat problem:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r3576548-dryer_runs_but_does_not_heat

First, begin by unplugging the dryer and verifying the voltage at the wall receptacle. You should read 220-240VAC across the two Hot terminals (left and right slots). If the voltage is incorrect, check to make sure you don't have a breaker tripped. Some homes use 2 separate 120VAC breakers to provide power to the receptacle vice using one 240VAC breaker.

If the voltage IS correct, leave the dryer unplugged and remove the cover plate on the terminal block in the back of the dryer (this is where the power cord is installed). Plug the dryer back in and take a voltage reading across the two hot (RED and BLACK) wires at the terminal block. You should read 220-240VAC. If the voltage is good, you have an internal heating problem. If the voltage is bad at the terminal block, but good at the receptacle, you have a bad power cord.

NOTE: If the wires at the terminal block are not color coded, the outer two wires (left and right) are the hot leads. The center conductor is neutral or ground.

The reason a dryer will still run if the input voltage is incorrect, is because the drive motor only uses a portion of the 220 service. The motor runs off 110-120VAC, while the heating circuits require 220-240VAC. So, if you are missing 1/2 your input voltage due to a tripped breaker or bad power cord, your dryer may exhibit these symptoms.

If you determine the problem to be internal, the heating circuits will either be located in the rear of the dryer on the right hand, or under the dryer drum on the right hand side. Usually, an easy way to determine is by the location of the lint screen filter. If the filter is on top of the dryer, the heating circuits are in the back of the dryer. If the lint screen is in the door, the heating circuits are located under the dryer drum.

The Heating Element is located inside a heater box. The Thermal Cut-Out (TCO) will be located on the outside of the heater box on the end opposite the heating element terminals. The Hi-Limit Thermostat will be located adjacent to the heating element terminals.

If either the TCO or Hi-Limit Thermostat are determined to be bad, replace BOTH components at the same time. That is why these components are commonly sold as a set. Failure to do so may result in premature failure of any parts you replace.

Replacement parts (if required) can be found at the following websites:

searspartsdirect.com
pcappliancerepair.com
appliancepartspros.com
repairclinic.com

The average cost of these components varies, so shop and compare.

Now...if you have determined the heating element is defintely bad, and this is a Kenmore Elite as the one you posted this question under, the following link explains how to access the heating element and replace it: http://www.fixya.com/support/r3677025-elite_duet_dryer_heating_element If you need further assistance, please post back with your complete model number (located on a nameplate around the door opening) and let me know. I hope you find this information helpful.

Jan 06, 2010 | Kenmore 84832 Electric Dryer

1 Answer

Needs to be "unlocked"?


If you have a Control Lock problem, the following link explains the steps required to correct:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r2469429-kenmore_elite_amp_whirlpool_duet

If you are talking about not being able to open the door, because it is either jammed or will not unlock, this next link explains an alternate method of opening the door:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r622155-kenmore_elite_whirlpool_duet_door_jammed

If you still have problems, please post back and elaborate on the symptoms you may be getting, so that I can assist you better. I hope this helps you.

Aug 05, 2009 | Whirlpool Duet GHW9150P Front Load Washer

1 Answer

My Whirlpool LER8648PQ1 dryer runs but will not heat.


The following link explains how to troubleshoot a dryer not heat problem:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r630242-dryer_runs_but_not_heat Most dryer heat related problems are attributed to poorly installed, kinked or clogged exhaust vent ducting. Pay particular attention to the section that discusses ventilation and make sure your dryer interior and ducting are clean. Leaving a dryer in a clogged condition will not only decrease the drying efficiency of the appliance, it will also cause repeated failures of any components you may replace and is a fire hazard.

The first thing you need to check is the wall receptacle for the proper input voltage. A reading across the two hot leads (left and right slots) should read 220-240 VAC. If this reading is incorrect, check your breaker panel. Some homes have the dryer circuit on two breakers, vice one single 220 breaker. If the voltage at the receptacle is good, unplug the dryer and remove the cover on the terminal block in the back of the dryer. Plug the dryer back in and take the same voltage check at terminal block across the RED and BLACK wires. You should see 220-240 VAC if good. If the voltage is bad at the terminal block, but good at the wall receptacle, you have a bad power cord. If the voltage is good at the terminal block, then the problem is internal to the dryer.

NOTE: The reason a dryer will still run if the input voltage is incorrect is because the dryer drive motor only uses 110-120 VAC, while the heating circuits require the full 220 service. So, if you are missing a portion of your input voltage, the dryer may exhibit the symptoms you have.

If you have any questions about this repair, or require additional assistance please let me know.

Jul 26, 2009 | Dryers

1 Answer

Will run but will not heat up


If the dryer runs, but does not heat, the first thing you need to check is the wall receptacle for the proper input voltage. A reading across the two hot leads (left and right slots) should read 220-240 VAC. If this reading is incorrect, check your breaker panel. Some homes have the dryer circuit on two breakers, vice one single 220 breaker. If the voltage at the receptacle is good, unplug the dryer and remove the cover on the terminal block in the back of the dryer. Plug the dryer back in and take the same voltage check at terminal block across the RED and BLACK wires. You should see 220-240 VAC if good. If the voltage is bad at the terminal block, but good at the wall receptacle, you have a bad power cord. If the voltage is good at the terminal block, then the problem is internal to the dryer.

NOTE: The reason a dryer will still run if the input voltage is incorrect is because the dryer drive motor only uses 110-120 VAC, while the heating circuits require the full 220 service. So, if you are missing a portion of your input voltage, the dryer may exhibit the symptoms you have.

If your problem is with the dryer heating circuits, the following link explains what to look for and how to troubleshoot:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r630242-dryer_runs_but_not_heat

Pay particular attention to the paragraph that discusses proper ventilation. The number one cause of dryer heat related problems are caused by poorly installed, kinked, or clogged dryer ventilation. If you have any questions, please let me know. I hope you find this information helpful.

Jul 11, 2009 | Kenmore 75944 Gas Dryer

1 Answer

The dryer works but does not heat up.  The dryer will tumble but there is no heat coming on.


If the dryer runs, but does not heat, the first thing you need to check is the wall receptacle for the proper input voltage. A reading across the two hot leads (left and right slots) should read 220-240 VAC. If this reading is incorrect, check your breaker panel. Some homes have the dryer circuit on two breakers, vice one single 220 breaker. If the voltage at the receptacle is good, unplug the dryer and remove the cover on the terminal block in the back of the dryer. Plug the dryer back in and take the same voltage check at terminal block across the RED and BLACK wires. You should see 220-240 VAC if good. If the voltage is bad at the terminal block, but good at the wall receptacle, you have a bad power cord. If the voltage is good at the terminal block, then the problem is internal to the dryer.

NOTE: The reason a dryer will still run if the input voltage is incorrect is because the dryer drive motor only uses 110-120 VAC, while the heating circuits require the full 220 service. So, if you are missing a portion of your input voltage, the dryer may exhibit the symptoms you have.

If your problem is with the dryer heating circuits, the following link explains what to look for and how to troubleshoot:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r630242-dryer_runs_but_not_heat

Pay particular attention to the paragraph that discusses proper ventilation. The number one cause of dryer heat related problems are caused by poorly installed, kinked, or clogged dryer ventilation. If you have any questions, please let me know. I hope you find this information helpful.

Jul 11, 2009 | Dryers

1 Answer

Dryer will run but not get hot can you tell me what to look for or replace? Serial No# M83925914 and Model No# 110.86874800


If the dryer runs, but does not heat, the first thing you need to check is the wall receptacle for the proper input voltage. A reading across the two hot leads (left and right slots) should read 220-240 VAC. If this reading is incorrect, check your breaker panel. Some homes have the dryer circuit on two breakers, vice one single 220 breaker. If the voltage at the receptacle is good, unplug the dryer and remove the cover on the terminal block in the back of the dryer. Plug the dryer back in and take the same voltage check at terminal block across the RED and BLACK wires. You should see 220-240 VAC if good. If the voltage is bad at the terminal block, but good at the wall receptacle, you have a bad power cord. If the voltage is good at the terminal block, then the problem is internal to the dryer.

NOTE: The reason a dryer will still run if the input voltage is incorrect is because the dryer drive motor only uses 110-120 VAC, while the heating circuits require the full 220 service. So, if you are missing a portion of your input voltage, the dryer may exhibit the symptoms you have.

If your problem is with the dryer heating circuits, the following link explains what to look for and how to troubleshoot:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r630242-dryer_runs_but_not_heat

Pay particular attention to the paragraph that discusses proper ventilation. The number one cause of dryer heat related problems are caused by poorly installed, kinked, or clogged dryer ventilation. If you have any questions, please let me know. I hope you find this information helpful.

Jul 09, 2009 | Dryers

1 Answer

MAYTAG WASHING MACHINE WILL NOT HOLD WATER. JUST KEEPS RUNNING WATER OUT


You may have a siphoning situation with your washer. The following link explains:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r587481-prevent_washer_siphoning

This could be a simple matter of drain line placement. Please read through the link provided and verify your washer installation. If my diagnosis is not correct, please post back to this thread and elaborate some more on your symptoms, so that I may provide you with better assistance. Hopefully, this solves your problem.

Jun 19, 2009 | Maytag PAV2300 Top Load Washer

1 Answer

Disconnect of gasket between housing and bucket any idea of how to attach it back on?


If you are talking about the rubber door bellow, the following link explains how the bellow is installed:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r385210-replacing_door_bellow_kenmore_elite

I know this explains all the steps required to REPLACE a door bellow, but it includes all the information you need to know. If the door bellow is not what you are talking about, please post back and elaborate on your problem a bit more. I hope this helps you.

May 02, 2009 | Kenmore 3.8 cu. ft. HE3 Front Load Washer

1 Answer

HP Pavilion dv1000 AC Adapter Problem?


Dear oliverdog

I am sorry to hear your problems but I hope we can figure this one out. Troubleshooting the AC power is not always easy. Let do the easy stuff first.

Warning: If you are anaware how to handle voltages please dont follow this guideline. It might hurt you or you equipment. Furthermore all parts if covered with warranty can and will be replaced, dont do any repairs as this will void it at some point. (Just to let you know)

If you have a multimeter you can test the actual power supply DC voltage output. When plugged in it should read certain voltages (look at the bottom of the plastics at the power cord (brick) to find the label regarding the voltages. Probably will be saying something like 18V 4.5A) You have to measure this with the multimeter at an appropriate scale (20/40 volts). If you are and not reading any serious +/- fluctuations then the AC input and DC output is fine!

Otherwise start searching for a replacement part.

If the power cord is reading fine the problem cannot always be the DC POWER Jack though. I had an AC Jack problem with a HP ZX5000 earlier this year but this is not always the case.

Please go to the following link (simply press left click/or copy paste to your browser and it will start the download automatically)
It is the complete HP Service Manual on how to troubleshoot and take apart your laptop.

h20000.www2.hp.com/bc/docs/support/SupportManual/c00444244/c00444244.pdf

At page 48 you will find extensive information of step by step info on troubleshooting your power AC up to motherboard problems. It is unfortunately too long to elabore here but it has good info in it.

Anyway, I hoped I have help you! (For anything else please ask me again. I will help!)

Please dont forget to rate this rating if it has helped you.

Mar 30, 2008 | HP Pavilion dv1000 Notebook

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