- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
The proper connection for these wires are: the red and black on the RCA cable go to chassis ground and a switched 12volt wire (accessory or ignition) and should be fused at the connection with not more than a 15 amp fuse. No info on the dome light wire connections
This is how to hook up the Pyle PLCM7300BT: On the license plate camera, plug the black cable provided with 2-wires inside (one red and one black) to its counterpart on the camera. On the open end of this black cable, strip and connect the black wire to the car/truck metal body part. Connect the red wire from the camera and the green wire from the monitor (part of the big black cable from the monitor) to the power wire to the back-up lamp socket. Connect the Red wire from the monitor to a switched terminal on the fuse box so that it would only have power when you have the ignition key on. The rest of the wiring is simple and common sense. To operate, turn on the ignition of you car/truck and put it on reverse you should see the camera view. Put the car/truck on Park, the monitor screen should go back, if not, push the power button once. To set up the blue tooth: Push the power button on the monitor so that you can see the blue screen and "no Input". Put your phone on discoverable mode and push scan for device. AT the same time push the "pair" button on the monitor.
I did all the figuring out on the bench using a 12 VDC power supplies and contact switches to make sure I understood how it worked. Once installed on my 1988 Suburban, it worked as expected.
The only problem I had to patch the long green wire (reverse car) so that it reached the back-up light socket.
Let me know if you still have problems. Email me at firstname.lastname@example.org
This is the best solution for your problem as a 40 year experience with wires etc.
Go to the source of your cable signal connector .
Open it and clean the terminals with emery paper , sand the end of the cable shiny clean from corrosion , get a new barrel connectors with gold terminals if possible lengthen the ends of the cable , insert and tighten good, use thick rg-16 or rg 40 cable with good insulation ends crimped professionally with a crimpier or buy ready made , not from dollar store. Get a gold plated professional splitter if you need one or two , it will cost about 15 or more each . Make the cable runs as short as possible, using the thick good cables. If needed get a signal magnifier. From radio shack or the source etc. Connect them good and tight . Ground the splitters . Problem solved , you will get crystal clear channel 2 to 7 including 3 and 4 . Isolate the TV cable from other cables and power wires.
A bit late on this! You will need a multi cable for the unit. It connects with the cable on the monitor and the other end has several terminals, usually like so.... NTSC video, audio, bat positive and battery negative. Could also be left and right audio.
Hi, I don't know whether you have sorted this or not but you MUST NOT connect directly to the cars lighting system, it will assume that there is an overload and switch the circuits off. You must use a bypass relay system of some sort, or preferably a vehicle specific wiring kit which will either plug directly into the REC (fuse box) in the left rear cubby hole in the boot or if you don't have the REC then a different wiring kit plugs into the lamps and has a towing interface with it. If you are not sure what you are doing then best contact your local towbar specialist.
what make of towbar wiring kit was fitted ? You can get a Whitter grey (S) fitting kit but this connects to their own black (N) wiring kit I would think any supplier of the N wiring should be able to supply a S kit.
Try these guys - although they only allow installation by licensed installers, so they may not supply parts.
Wiring harnesses for this type of application will differ considerably from vehicle to vehicle depending on the location of the monitor and player and the route through which cabling has to be threaded, so they are usually constucted in situ. The connectors on these units should be standard, so any auto electric shop should be able to wire it up, but be careful not to void any warranty on the monitors.
Hope this helps :)