Question about GE JTP20 Electric Single Oven
I just purchased and replaced the outer glass for my Whirlpool Oven Door. It's an in-wall unit model number RBS245PRQ00. The glass came with4 strips of silver tape (looks like wide duct tape) stuck to the inside of the glass, and surrounding the clear window portion of the glass. At the top of that side there was a thin black foam stuck there as well which was obviously meant to cushion the handle as it attaches to the glass.
My question is what purpose does the tape serve? And is it safe to be there? I imagine the latter answer is yes, since I doubt the inside part of this outer glass gets any heat - there is much more to the door that would prevent that.
Thanks - just curious really!
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Hi, You can replace the glass piece. You will need the whole model # when you call for the part.
Good luck. Please let me know if I can assist you further.
Posted on May 30, 2009
Welcome to fixya.com f- 1 is the electronic key pad a key is stuck and usually you will need to replace the key pad site to obtain parts is partsselect.com but before you do disconnect power to unit for 15 min then re connect power to see if unit reset its self. And at Parts select.com you can order the glass you need, Regards, Lee Davidian
Posted on Apr 19, 2010
Here is some wisdom for understanding F1 fault codes.
In some models, there are subcodes that make diagnosis even easier.
Here's a simple explanation of what's going on and how to troubleshoot:
The F1 code indicates that:
a. The electronic range control (ERC) is sensing heat in the oven when in a time-of-day (i.e., not cooking) mode.
b. The ERC is receiving information to run multiple heat functions simultaneously.
Although different components (depending upon the model) could generate the code, simple and straightforward testing using your ohm meter is all you gotta do to test for it.
1. Check the oven temperature sensor. The oven sensor has to be within spec or it will cause the F1 code.
As an example of being out-of-spec, the ERC will generate an F1 fault code when the sensor shows 1650 ohms during a time-of-day mode.
This is equivalent to 350°F in the oven.
The resistance isn't high enough to generate an F2 code (runaway temp) or an F3 or F4 code (shorted/open sensor circuit).
The ERC monitors the sensor circuit after a heat cycle and expects the resistance to drop back to 1050-1100 ohms.
The fault code is generated when this doesn't happen. Checking the sensor circuit means also checking the harness,
harness connections and the sensor itself.
2. If the oven sensor circuit checks okay, then turn your inquisitive eyeballs to the touchpad.
If the range has a separate touchpad/keyboard, the keypad may have moisture that is shorting several circuits simultaneously.
If the F1 code is given immediately (instead of during or after a heat cycle),
remove the ribbon connector from the touchpad to the ERC after clearing the F1 code. If the F1 code does not return in five minutes,
then cast a suspicious gaze upon the touchpad/keyboard. Shorts may be caused by using an ammonia-based glass cleaner.
The touchpad surface will absorb ammonia-based cleaners that are sprayed directly on the glass surface. When heat is applied,
the surface material can break down causing shorts.
If you're gonna use ammonia-based cleaners on your control panel, then you should spray it on the rag and then wipe the touchpanel
-don't spray directly onto the surface of the touchpad.
3. On Amana ranges with a rotary temperature dial, be sure that the knob is in the OFF position when performing tests.
4. If these tests all check good, then replace the ERC.
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Posted on Oct 01, 2010
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