Question about GE JVM1440 Microwave Oven
Usually it works fine, but if something is not hot enough after the initial heating, I will start a new cycle or add an additional minute.
When the minute (or whatever added time) is finished, basically nothing happened. I'll try it again, and it works fine.
I would say this happens 2 out of every 10 times.
Any suggestions for the determining the problem?
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
is usually caused by either a bad door switch or a loose door switch
mount, which are pretty simple problems to fix.
Even though a door switch clicks, it may still be bad inside.
Door switch or mount trouble is usually caused by slamming the door or by opening the door while it's cooking without hitting the Stop pad first.
There are plastic mounts inside the microwave which hold the door switches and onto which the door latches lock when you close the door.
The screws on these mounts may be loose. If they get too loose, the switches will not be activated properly.
Sometimes it's a broken tab on the switch holder, allowing the switch to rotate just out of position. This tab can be hard to see, since it is under the bottom edge of the switch.
If the mount is broken, it's usually more economical and safer to add a dab or two of hot glue to the mount to secure the switch. Let it cool for about 30 minutes before using.
One test that sometimes helps is to gently lift up (and/or push down) on the door or handle as you try to start it. If it works or tries to work, then it's a door switch mount or door alignment issue.
If you or someone you know decide to look into it, we have critical information on safety, disassembly and door switches at our site, and our link is at our listing here on FixYa:.
You can find helpful exploded view diagrams and order parts by entering your full model number here.
There should also be a "mini-manual" hidden inside the unit behind the control panel or hidden on the left side behind the grille, which is very helpful when troubleshooting & testing.
At our Web site, we have a video available showing how to remove a typical over the range control panel assembly in under 5 minutes.
If you only need a switch, you can order a universal type here for $5 postpaid.
If you think the problem is on the control panel, we repair these nationwide by mail for $39.95 postpaid in most cases in about a week or so.
We're happy to help you with free advice and we'd appreciate your thoughtful rating of our answer.
Posted on Feb 15, 2009
SOURCE: Everything works except heat
this is something you should probably call a repair technician for, due to the danger of the componentry.
Usually in ther case of this problem, even a technician will advise you to replace the unit, in the minds of cost effectiveness and safety...
Posted on Mar 21, 2009
Take the 2 screws out of the top outside grill. Take the 1 screw out of the top of the control panel. Lift the panel slightly and it will tilt out and hang there. Try a cook cycle with the panel in this position. If it works, your problem is interference from your magnetron. It is very common on these units. I do not recommend adding EMI shielding with tin foil as many have been suggesting on the help sites. If you are still under warranty, call GE. If not, call GE and threaten to sue. This is a known problem with these units and they should have been recalled.
Posted on Jan 06, 2010
it may have been the hi voltage at the magnetron,but the shut down is your heat thermocouple mounted on the magnetron side and when the mag overheats this thermocouple opens up and shuts off power to the mag to prevent overheating and fire
Posted on Apr 17, 2010
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