The last load filled up made noise but did not agitate spin or drain. I think its a belt issue and am not sure if that is a difficult repair or not, I have done dryers not washers but the mach is 9 or 10 yr old the extra jumbo and not in the best condition though it worked well. It sounds off balance and the drain hose vibrates and slaps the back of the unit and wall loudly as it spins out larger loads and when it began to bouncing around I levelled it to the floor with a loose panel that spans the back by tipping it forward. The feet don't seem to be adjustable but the panel near the base was tipped to one side and so I evened it up as best I could and set it back upright and problem solved. That was about 10 - 15 loads ago and then the water began to not completely drain the last 3-4 loads, then it stopped working as described above. Also the basket now moves around more than it used to.
I put in the wrong model because I was looking at the only manual I could find at home that was an installation manual so not helpful at all. However, I took off the hoses after draining it and finding wood chips in the water, etc. suspecting a pump problem or stuck line. No such luck so at that point I had to figure the motor was having an issue, as on inspection I found no belt. It seems that the series 80 super cap. kenmore is a direct drive type of unit (I guess) that's how it looks to me. So figuring I could find an adequate model on craigslist for less than a motor or the utility left in the 80, I searched and found an older Amana 2-spd in better shape and also a super cap close by for 50 cash replaced the kenmore with free/scrap sign to the curb and:Problem solved! Thanks for your consideration.
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Re: top load kenmore washer stopped working
Hi my name is joyce
sounds like you have more going on than just a belt issue, your machine sounds if it may need a lot more than just belt, but you can try that, it is not as complicated as you may think to put belt on, if you are tired of working on this older unit you may want to replace it with one that does not give you so many problems.
let me know if I can be of further assistance
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You have a problem with the motor coupling. Top-load washers use what's called a direct-drive system, meaning it does not use a belt but what's called a "motor coupling". I probably replace 5 a week because these little guys break because of 2 reasons that i've found.
1) The break mechanism is too dry and causing the basket to stop at a holt, which puts a lot of strain on the coupler.
2) They break because of over-loading. I don't think you're over-loading though because it was find for 5 straight years.
Good luck to you. The repair is kind of hard to do on your own for the first time, so I would call an authorized technician. It will run you anywhere between $90 to $120 at most.
if your sure it will agitate?[because the pump is on the other side of the motor and will drain,but if coupler broken ,wont agitate or spin although it makes noise like its working.so if will truely agitate drive coupler fine and its going to be the clutch or that area unless somthing[clothing] is between the two tubs creating anough resistance to stop the tub from taking off.clutch pads will just slip on drive plate.hope that helps>God bless ,tom
if it wont stop filling, then the pressure switch is either defective, or the hose that is attached to the drum to the pressure switch was either pulled out or had an opening either it breaks or it cracks.
that would not transfer the filling mode to agitate mode.
the second problem that it wont drain and spin now is another issue but might be resolve if you solve the first problem.
If your washer fills, agitates, drains, but will not spin, the likely cause is the gear case (transmission). A new gear case can run about $200 just for the part. With labor, this could be a bit expensive to repair. I hope this helps you some.