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It is so common that the drain leaks in many ways and
is the most problematic fault in a washing machine. In all occasions it is
important that your observation is most important and so is vital to the
identification /rectification and solution. If you have noticed that water has
leaked then as the drain hose pump/valve and fittings are located on the
underside of the machine it is important that you look for possible leaks here.
In some cases the drain hose would be clogged at the drain end to outlet of the
house and so there will be back flushing resulting in overflow to the outside.
Also the drain pump/valve can be clogged or the drain hose clamps can be loose
on the grip which can all cause the leak to occur. Removing and cleaning the
drain pump/valve, tightening of the hose is also very important. Also water can
leak if there are gaps on the front door gaskets and must be checked but this
will happen only during the cycle and not on the drain cycle end.
water level pressure switch tube is clogged with lint or bladder in pressure switch is bad. disconnect power to washer open timer console look for a clear rubber hose disconnect fron switch and blow in tube a couple times reconnect tube and put unit on drain and spin for a second then retrying unit for water level fill put washer on small load water size and test if it continues to fill replace pressure switch...
The pressure switch has not tripped 8 minutes after the water valves are turned on and the flow meter has detected about 10.5 gallons of water entering the machine. Either the pressure switch contact is stuck in the empty position or the pressure hose has air leaks or clogs causing the pressure switch not to trip.
Disconnect power then remove the screws attaching the top panel to the rear of the machine then slide the panel rearwards and off the cabinet. Locate the pressure switch at the right side of the cabinet.
Disconnect the pressure hose from the pressure switch then blow air down into the hose forcefully to clear it for clogs and check it for air leaks and kinks. Remove the pressure switch from the cabinet the do the same as for the pressure hose to possible free the stuck or welded contacts. replace the pressure hose if it has air leaks and/or the pressure switch itself if the contacts cannot be released.
There are debri screens in many styles of washer fill hoses that can block up. And the end that connects to the back of your machine also has a reachable screen filter up inside the water valve inlet that can also block up.
Disconnect the water fill hose at the machine and check screens ... clean or replace if needed.
The screen are usually attached to the hose washer and will pop out manually with a small screwdriver or knife. Then turn the water valve on with the free end of the hose aimed into your washer tub to make sure you have free water flow from the faucet to the water valve. If all screens are clean and clear but still no water pressure going into the washer after reconnecting your hoses then you can suspect the water valve inlet assembly.
you've indicated this problem only arrises during the rinse cycle, is that correct ? The leak doesn't occur during the wash cycle initial fill level ? I want to distinguish the difference because there has been a repair tip issued by whirlpool for the duet and sport washer's. This may be applicable to your machine. If it is indeed only during the rinse, the problem is within the door assembly. Specifically the glass and it's "seat" to the frame.
Let me know, I'll watch for your reply.
First, does the machine stop filling if you pull the plug? If not, he is wrong and you need the fill valve. The piece the hoses go into. If it does stop when plug pulled then he is likely correct.
Pull machine away from the wall. Disconnect power. The control panel has two plastic end caps. The rear edge of each end cap will show a hole which has a partially covered Phillips head screw in it. Put a screwdriver in and remove the screw in each end cap.
Move to the front of the washer. Grasp each end cap and pull straight toward you about 1/4 " to 1/2 " then lift. The control panel should disengage from the top of the machine. The top of the control panel stays attached to the back plate of the washer. Rotate the front of the control up. This will expose all parts in the control panel.
Look for a 1/4" clear hose coming from inside the machine to one of the switches. This small hose can become detached from the switch and not send the "full" signal to shut the water off. It may also develop a small air leak which prevents the signal. If the hose is detached...reattaching and adding a hose clamp will prevent future detachment. if not detached, the pressure (level) switch itself is likely the problem.
Reverse the above process to reattach the control panel. If the machine is full spin to empty before testing your repair to remove water from tube. Good Luck.
I used to work for Sears as a home repair technician and washers and dryers were my specialty. Most likely the problem is with your water pump. I ran across this issue many times and what happens is people leave things in their pockets and it destroys the pump. A hair pin or coins, I have even seen socks and under ware get stuck in them causing leaks. What you want to do is tip the machine back and look at the pump. It is located right at the front of the washer with two hoses connected to it. You will want a pair of hose clamps though if you don't want water all over your floor. Disconnect the pump and look inside it for anything causing the motor inside to not work, this will cause slow draining and even leaking. If it looks clear then look for any cracks in the pump. If there is a crack then it needs to be replaced. Just call your local appliance repair place and tell them what you need. Pumps run around 30 bucks or less on average for Kenmore's. If everything looks good on the pump check the hoses that run from the pump and make sure there are no cracks or holes in the hoses. If they look good then the only thing left is the tub and the overflow tube. Chances are though that your pump is what the problem is and it is an easy fix. Good luck.
you need to reset the switch just blow down the pipe at the opposite end to the switch till it cick again if that doesent work check for air leaks spread washing up liquid on the whole pipe and look for bubbles check wiring also