How does the top come off, after taking screws out at the back. I dont want to force it incase i break some part. I need to get to the LED Display as it has stopped working , the dryer still works, just no display
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There must be something stuck in the filter, as normally it should pull straight out once you have unscrewed it. Try screwing and unscrewing it at the same time keep twisting and pulling at the filter. If you can't tremove it, then you sre going to have to remove the complete pump in order to clear the obstruction Hope this helps you ..
think yourself lucky my plastic broke when i was unscrewing it or tying to ended up cutting my knuckle open on the shard of plastic and water pumping out all over my kitchen is there somewhere that you can purchase the cap from and how do you get the broken one off???
hi f13 is not heating either the element is faulty or the wiring to it
to find out which is the case will involve dismantling the machine.if you are unsure or unable to strip the machine yourself contact dyson to repair and test your machine. water and electricity can be a lethal combination don't take any risks
You will be able to fix this, it will take about 2 hours.Buy two thermostats for £10 from a 'local' repair shop.These components look rather like cylindrical bits of plastic wearing tin hats but one is twice the size of the other, the larger being about 2 cm in diameter, and they DON'T look identical. The part numbers (for my WD860) are: HPT 1605 160 and HPT 1604 802.
1. You’ll need to use a combination of finesse and brut force to get the lid off of the machine. It is secured by two screws at the rear but has troublesome plastic hooks inside, half way down either side, that stop the lid from riding up at the front. The process is to remove the screws and then pull back and up to ‘unhook’ the internal brittle plastic hooks. I found this scary and difficult, cracking sounds were off putting and I did break to tips of the plastic hooks a little but they still seem to work ok. Be careful and wiggle it gently from side to side is the only advice I can offer.
2. Once inside it gets a bit easier. You should be able to see a metal snail-shaped object bolted to the top of the drum with various electrical connections – this is the dryer and within it are the two thermostats. What you’ve got to do is remove/unplug all the electrical connections from the top dryer, of course, make a diagram first as you’ll need to put them all back after. You then need to unbolt/unscrew the top half of the dryer and remove this from the machine – this is another fiddley bit and I was lucky again here to have a very small ratchet socket set which made the hard to get to bolts/screws accessible. Note: some of the screws are the Torx type (imagine a more complex Phillips’s type screw). You’ll need to have a Torx type screw driver head that’ll fit the small socket tool to undo these.
3. Once the top of the dryer unit is off, you just need to remove the thermostats – one is fixed in by screws on the outside of the dryer top and the other is fixed in by screws on the inside. Screw in the replacement thermostats, then clean off the fluff and burnt fluff from both halves of the dryer and you’re there – put the machine back together.
I was just trying the same thing. I have a kenmore 80 series that wont even start to fill. i thought maybe the dial component was broke so i wanted to take it out. it was held on by a screw. I am not sure if there is a certain position the knob must be in, but mine turned counterclockwise. i have a feel for things like this so i might have done something else out of instict. but it is held on by a screw.
Unplug power cord. Remove phillips head screws on the bottom side of the "L" bracket on the back side of the dryer's top. Use the flat sides of your hands to sharply push back on the dryer's top, sliding it back about 2 inches and then lifting it off. Remove screw from top corner front corners and pry control locking tabs off from along top edge. (watch for sharp edges) Swing control panel up onto top of dryer. Remove the two screws at the bottom side of the door opening and the four screws along the top of the front panel. Unplug the light, door switch, and also the moisture sensor (by the bottom of the drum) then remove front panel. Remove four screws holding front drum support and lift up on it a bit to remove. Look at how the belt goes around the motor and pulley before removing, then take out drum. You will need to remove the phillips screws from behind dryer to remove the rear drum support assembly, allowing you to get to the nuts on the back rollers. First time job: maybe 2 hours. Second time: maybe a half hour, tops.
The door lock has failed in the locked mode, only way to open door is to force it open.
Remove top cover, screws at rear , slide cover back away from you.
Down at the front right side you will see the lock, it is reddish brown in colour, with 3 wires attached.
Force a long handled screwdriver or similar between lock and cabinet front, and force the lock, you may have to break it, but it does not matter as it is faulty anyway.. The door will then open.
Remove the 2 screws holding the rest of the lock , and pull up with wires still attached, .
Transfer wires to new lock on the same connectios, and refit.
Test it, if it still does not work then you may have to fit a new door latch and or spring.
Plz rate this solution and if you have any further probs, plz let me know.
yes the screws are behind the soap drawer, will the drawer not open at all? if not then the only way would be to force it open and the chances are it will break and need replacing. if it opens about 2/3's of the way try pressing the thin blue locking tab in the middle of the two channels and pulling.
hope this helps
please dont forget to rate the helpfulness of this reply thanks kj
Disconnect unit from its power source before servicing!
The lower half (washer) can be pulled away from the upper section, allowing full access to the unit. Remove the front panel by taking out the 2-phillips head screws at the bottom of the front panel, pull outward at the bottom of the front panel to disengage the hanger clips from the top panel. Remove the 2-3/8"hex head screws from each corner of the side panels connecting to the top panel. The top panel can then be tilted up and back on its hinges, so that acces may be gained to the siphon break. 4-5/16" hex head screws secure the 2 halves of the siphon break to the back panel and are accessible from the outside of the back panel.
Follow the link below to see an image of the siphon break assy. along with ordering information.