Question about Whirlpool 24 in. GU1500XT - Multiple Color Built-in Dishwasher

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Long Run Time and dishes don't dry

Two problems, may be same root cause. During a normal cycle, the "Water heating" light comes on and stays on for quite a while delaying the cycle from progressing. Manual says this will happen if the water is below 120F. Mine is 130F. Possibly a bad temp sensor?

Also dishes don't come out dry. The heater coil is not hot to the touch if I open it during the drying cycle. Is that definitive that I need a new heating element? Is it easy to replace without causing subsequent leaks around the connection points?

Thanks for any help.

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  • marty571 Feb 05, 2009

    Not sure I understand your question. I meant that my normal water temperature is 130F (measured at the kitchen faucet), so it did not make sense to me that the "Water Heating" light would come on (and it does at least once during every cycle). The light eventually goes out and the cycle does proceed. I have no way of knowing what the actual water temp inside the tub reaches setpoint or if it just times out a some point and the cycle continues. Again, I suspect a bad temp sensor, but don't know where it is in there.



    I can't feel the back or sides, I just opened the door during the dry cycle and gingerly touched the heating element. It was the same temp as everything else in there (about 120 I would guess, but did not measure).



    Thanks for looking into this for me

  • marty571 Feb 06, 2009

    OK, thanks. The cost of the element seems cheap enough. Any tricks I should know about getting the old one out and the new one in without having leaks afterwards?

  • Garth Jackson May 11, 2010

    Sound to me like the element is just not getting to temp as fast as it should but what i need to know before I tell you to go and spend money is ,does the unit continue washing when the water reaches 130F or does it heat past that?and when the machine goes into dry cycle is there heat at all feeling the side of the machine or the back if you can get there is usually a good indicator.

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I do not think that the temp censor is fualty as if this was the case it would more than likely get so hot that plastics would melt but as you say the element is not hot and the machine does eventually continue this leads me to believe the element is blown or just not heating as it should I would tend to replace it,but what you can do is before you remove the element take the wires off the element and test it with a multi meater to see if you get a reading if not then you know the element is fualty and replace.
Hope this is of some assistance to you and that you do come right,let me know if there are any other changes or problems you encounter and we will see what we can do.

Posted on Feb 06, 2009

  • Garth Jackson Feb 06, 2009

    There is not really any tricks as such just remember unplug the unit before you work on it and when you replace the element make sure the element is in place and sucured tightly and you should be ok

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