Galaxy949 no mod no variable power but tx ok keys 5 watts

Many possibilities:
1: The radio took a hit and broke the PCB or the connection to the RF out jack.
2: Some other PCB joint failure
3: The RF output IC is toast
4: The driver is toast
5: The tx oscillator is so far out of whack it cannot develop the frequency it is set to.
6: You have a bad cable or antenna connector
7: You have a bad battery, battery contact or power connection
8: You have a power supply or other problem

I can tell you that mic wires can simulate that problem when they accidently touch or ground out. Sometimes a ground is loose or capacitor leaks. Check standing wave ratio. SWR 1.5 or less prefer 1.2 or 1.3 read. Antenna cables replacement and new ends. Dirt in mic switch. Mine did this with a power mod capacitor
near final(without proper discharge 100 ohm resistor). I turned back power to 1 1/2 watts to 4 swing a Tx tuning slug *redpaint on it. I let it talk on low key an when i speak it jumps to 4 or 5 watts on meter. When a mod has been done some people don't know that capacitors discharge and it will leak back current. Thats why on a Cobra/Uniden company radio the instruction properly call for a 100 ohm resistor to be placed in parallel with Capacitor near final on bottom of circuit w/ capacitor on top spkr side(i call it top its on spkr side bottom when radio is upright (super mod kit). Or replace jumper J1 to factory deadkey of 4 watts and see no swing in talk except to 4.5 watt slightly(factory tune)

That linear will be good for 100 watts of clean power. It has two MRF455 transistor which are 60 watts a piece. The cb will drive it with the carrier or dead key reduced to about 1.5 to 2 watts but i suggest that you read the linear's power while adjusting dead key not exceeding the 100 watts pep with voice. An NPC mod would be a good addition to get the modulation up with a low dead key.

Before you start the projection make sure you antenna system is in good condition high SWR will smake you linear in a hurry.

In factory condition 949 galaxy with a 3.8 carrier it will drive a 667v TexasStar. It is a low drive linear that will end all disputes as to who has more power. 8 out of 10 birds that escape will die of cancer withiin 72 hrs. Ok could not help myself. I would not suggest that unless you just want to damage other peoples receive. The v is for variable power. Hope this was of help.

look up the tune specs VR13 (L PWR) L32 L33 high power maybe your watts are turned down if it is brand new send it back to the place you bought it from.If the watts are turned all the way down you won't get any carrier your needle is not moving when tranmitting there is no rf power check to see if your tx light is on when depressing the mic button. you should have a rf adjustment turn it clockwise to turn the power up on the front of your radio.or the mods i gave you in the radio.

did you make sure the caps stripe is facing the back of the radio? If not, its the wrong way.

Also, don't use a 1/4 watt resistor because it will get too hot for it to last. use 1/8th.

changing the cap size will not change output, however it will change the tone. Bigger the cap, the deeper the tone of audio.

to be honest with you, high output mods are worthless in these radios. they are fine with out them. mosfets are unstable and are very dirty transmit finals. As well if you are planning to use a linear you may hit it too hard unless its a high drive, in which case you will need more then 35 watts swing to drive it fully. A stock cobra 29 that has been peaked and tuned, then the swing mod put in, 220uf e cap and 100 ohm resistor, which should give you about 2 watts, should swing to about 27 watts, and kick an amp in the pants.

I run a cobra 29 in my blazer with a dave made 5 pill, and I key on 6 pills and I near keyed on a 2x8. very close. All that I have done to the radio is peak and tune, (of course I have a few tricks with that up my sleave which I don't usually share with just any one.) and variable power, wich will control the dead key, which is basically a varible swing kit. I run it just under 2 watts, just enoug to get a 125 watt dead key out of the amp. The amps swings over 920 watts.

any more swing from the radio will beat up the pills in the amp.

• Class-D Monoblock Amplifier
• Bass Boost Level and Frequency Remote Included
• Variable Low-Pass Filter: 50 - 200 Hz (24 dB/Oct.)
• Variable Input Sensitivity: 200mV - 5V
• Phase Shift: 0° / 180°
• Variable Infrasonic (Subsonic) Filter: 0/15Hz/25Hz (18 dB/Oct.)
• High- and Low-Level Inputs
• 1 Ohm Stable
• RMS Power Output:
• 500 watts x 1 chan. @ 4 ohms
• 900 watts x 1 chan. @ 2 ohm
• Preamp Outputs: 1 Pair
• Bass Boost: 0 - 18 dB @ 40 - 100 Hz (Variable)
• Dimensions: 15" L x 11-5/16" W x 2-3/8" H

You have to adjust the high key first so make sure you're rf power is on high, hope you have a meter set it on the 20 watt scale, key up and turn vr 13
located in back of radio infront of where you're coax connector is until it keys around 12 watts, thats where most connex 33hp should be set,now go to low power and key adjust vr 16 right net to the otherone down to about 3 watts, now you can drive a liners. Mod is Vr 2 right below them two. whistle in mic and turn to get the mod you want.

it sound that a can has been set of balance, or the output  transister has crashed. did you up grade the output before ajusting for more output.

You just have to lower your RF power so that the radio is putting out about a 2 watt dead key. Any higher and you will over drive the finals and burn out the final

no need to increase power output. you can take a radio with 100 watts and a radio with 10 watts that had had a modulation kit installed and the 10 watt radio will out talk the 100 watt radio ALL day long. the best thing to do would to put a mod kit in it and have the dead key cut back to 1/2 watt then put as little amp behind it. with those mods it will be loud and clear. hope that helps