Garrard Type A Turntable Speed settings are off, except the 45RPM
The turntable has not been used in the last 15 years. When I started it up again all the speed settings were frozen. However, after lubrication and patience I succeeded in getting the 78 up to 60, the 33 up to 16 RPM, and the 16 to 2 RPM, but no further. What do you think the problem is?
Re: Garrard Type A Turntable Speed settings are off,...
Forget solution #1
Here's what you do:
Your Garrard Type A is most likely an idler-drive deck (With a rubber wheel driving the turntable).
- Under the rubber mat there's a "C" shaped clamp to be found around the spindle. Remove that and keep safe. Now remove the platter and behold the 'guts' of the monster. On the left you should see a thick rubber wheel with a metal core inside, directly under that wheel you'll find a 3 step pulley protruding from under the frame.
Plug in the AC and turn on. Carefully look at the pulley. It should spin fast. If not, immediately unplug the power otherwise you'll burn out the motor. If the pulley spins too slow, the specially inserted factory grease/oil may have "set" or dried out during the silent years..
The same goes for the grease/ oil which is inserted in the spindle-bus. We'll get there later.
- Make sure the AC is OFF! High Voltage Inside!
- Lift the frame from its casing/ plinth and make sure it's completely supported when upside down, so you don't damage the arm!
- Locate the BIG motor! :-)
- The lower bearing screws may be 'glued' on with red lacquer. (Shellac) (This was done to prevent repairs by users (Warranty Expiration)
- Unscrew those and lift off the bearing. (a light tap with a small mallet may break the lacquer and make it easier to unscrew. DON'T TRY to unscrew forcefully as the screws may get damaged! They're made of brass I thought. )
- Clean it out with a tissue or a non-pilling piece of cloth. The Top bearing can be found under the motor-pulley which is fastened with 3 small screws. (Note! This bearing doesn't need greasing 'cause it's only there for support!)
Once cleaned out insert the tiniest little amount of Singer-Oil (Sowing Machine Oil) into the LOWER bearing. and put it back over the motor shaft. Screw the bearing back on. Make sure the screws are not too tight as, once again you may damage the heads. There! You just re-greased your turntable motor!
Next: If the speed selector lever is hard to move. Apply a small dab of vaseline onto the frame right next to the lever. Gently move it to and fro a few times and that's that.
- Spindle Bus:
This is somewhat more risky because this is practically what makes the turntable! The spindle was inserted in the factory by pressure, oil first, spindle second, forcing all the air out, leaving a film of oil around the spindle-shaft..
- Locate the cast-iron spindle-bus. Almost on top there you'll see a screw somewhere (again sealed with the red shellac)
- Gently try to loosen it. AGAIN: Do NOT use excessive force!
After unscrewing keep it safe.
- Turn the upside down frame over again to its normal position.
- Gently try to lift the spindle out of its bus. DON'T YANK IT as this piece of stainless steel was crafted with extremely high precision! Then again, the vacuum won't let ya, heheh.
- Degrease with a non-pilling cloth or tissue drenched in thinner/ pure alcohol. Use a pencil and non-pilling cloth to clean out and degrease the spindle bus. Never use tissues as these may tear leaving residue in the spindle bus which decreases performance!
- Now poor some Singer-Oil onto the spindle and a small drop in the spindle-bus. Slowly rotate it between your fingers so the oil can distribute itself all over the spindle.
-Put the spindle back in its bus and let it sink in under its own weight (Get some coffee. Watch the Superbowl, Take a vacation, cause this may take a while!) DO NOT force it in as you may damage either the bus or the spindle!
- Make sure the idler wheel is smooth and round! Run your fingers along the inside of the platter to see if there's any residual rubber left behind. If so, you're gonna need a new wheel sometime soon. If not, congrats! Make sure the idler wheel is free from grease, oil dust and dirt and that it runs smooth! Make sure the inside of the platter is also free from dust, dirt, grease or oil to obtain maximum grip or friction.
- Join turntable back together with spindle and give it a soft spin. (Oil warms up inside spindle bus)
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Similar to most Beogram 1800, the RX 2 featured record sizing by weight. When Play was selected, the centre part of the platter would raise gently, with only just enough force to lift a 45RPM single. An LP would be too heavy to lift, so the mechanism would set itself to 45RPM and 18cm if the record lifted, 33RPM and 30cm if it did not. The speed control keys could then be used to override the choice for non-standard records. The parts could also detect if a record was not present, and prevent the turntable being activated
Just put lp on and it should work
Whoopsy daisy! The Garrard 630s is an Idler drive deck based on the (presumably) earlier SP25MK IV module. Given it's 's' shaped arm.
BEFORE STARTING WORK! MAKE SURE POWER OR MAINS IS OFF/ UNPLUGGED! RISK OF ELECTRIC SHOCK.
-Remove the mat from turntable if possible. if you're lucky to have aluminium center piece, remove that. Underneath that you'lll find a cir-clip holding the turntable in place. Take a small screw driver and gently remove clip from the center-hub and lay aside.
-Now lift the platter off the center-hub or spindle-bus. You might see a big grey gearwheel which is called the cam-wheel, situated at about one o'clock. (Some models have it under the chassis.)To your left; a small, black ,rubber wheel with a metal core. Directly next to it, a two- (or three) step (Brass) pulley protruding from underneath the chassis. That is the motor but not likely your problem.
-Plug in mains and move lever to "Manual". The action should result in the small rubber wheel positioning itself against the spinning pulley and spin in opposite direction. If motor runs smooth. Switch off by moving the lever from "Manual" to "Off" and disconnect from mains.
- Now, with the power off, try to move the speed/size selector lever to and fro. If the small rubbber wheel doesn't reposition itself, something inside is jamming the lever. (and it's a long lever, running under the chassis.)
(SP module chassis, used up to 1979)
For your problem you need to lift the unit out of its plinth/ casing.
-Make sure all power's off and give slack to the audio and the mains cable. Depending on the plinth you might need to screw out a clasp holding the cables in place. Unscrew the bottom plate if possible. If not. Fasten the two transport screws which you find in the back on the left and on the right in the front.
-Make sure the arm is locked in its rest and gently turn unit over. Make sure unit is seated firmly and that you don't damage the arm!
(SP Module bottom view)
-Find the Speed/Size selection lever and try to move it... Look just below the motor and see what is happening. You see two tension springs and a "Block-like" piece of steel which should be able to move freely up and down the spindle to which it's mounted. The squiggly looking piece makes sure that speeds can be selected whilst the turntable is working. (it detaches the black rubber wheel from the inner rim of the turntable and pulley to enable repositioning without damaging parts.
-See if anything obstructs movement of parts. Look if parts are bent forcefully, warped or just worn out.
Note that tension springs are mounted in the chassis at certain "values" while assembling the unit in the factory. excessive force in removing tension springs may result in malfunction or even a dysfunctional unit. Place tension springs back in exact positions.
-If necessary, take the levers apart and clean thoroughly. Make sure all parts are free from dust dirt and grease.
-Circlips can be removed using a small (magnetic) screwdriver and an old handkerchief covering the circlip to be removed so they don't launch themselves into oblivion.
-Number parts (small stickers) before dissasembling counting up. Reassembe counting down again.
-After degreasing: apply tiny (!) amounts of Singer-oil on parts that may cause friction with eachother... Keep in mind that applying dabs of grease may result in decreased performance when the wrong oil or grease is used.
To make sure please switch the working "A" cables and speaker
pairs with "B" connectors and test it again.If it works ,check your "B " cables and speakers..
There are two types of turntable cartridges ..,magnetic and ceramic stylus..
your Turntable should be connected to turntable input.and both turntable and input should be same type as either magnetic ( that requiers phono preamps ) , or ceramic (that needs no preamplification at all ).Please check both your receiver and turntable user manuals to verify the types and decide which one to connect to other..good luck
There are a couple of things that need to be done here and there is no guarantee that the unit will work, but I have been successful in the past.
First remove the platter and clean all of the grease out of the unit. With all of hte grease removed, replace the platter and make sure that it turns freely. Regrease the unit one all of the old is removed. Next you will need to clean and treat the rubber drive wheel.
Unless I'm missing something in your description, your problem is simple: You need an riaa phono preamp between your turntable and your receiver.
Modern receivers do not offer "phono" line inputs and therefore do provide the amplification required to bring up the line level of the turntable. The result is low or no volume which is what you are essentially describing here.
Just google "riaa phono preamp" and you can either make one for $30 or buy one from $100 to over $10,000 (handmade tube goodness).
It is type SNP313 and is specific to your particular cartridge fitted to your T/T Where abouts in the world are you, there are a few aftermarket sources I could try for you also. BUT the audio technica is a good brand. I would go for that.
A FixYa rating would be awesome for my solution here, hope you get your vinyl spinning again real soon. :)
You have a VERY nice turntable!
TWO quick questions:
1) How do you define "minimal" volume? It is not NECESSARILY unusual that your turntable / receiver combination will have lower volume than your tuner, CD or DVD player. What happens when you CRANK IT UP?! Don't worry about the position of the volume control!
2)Are you changing the turntables output settings via the switch under the platter?
Please post a reply and we'll go to the next step!
Note: Ceramic cartridges are pretty much extinct. They were strictly low-end, low-cost, low-fidelity devices used in cheap audio systems of "yesteryear". Have you ever seen a BSR or Garrard turntable? Or your grandad's Magnavox Console Stereo? THAT'S where you'd find a ceramic cartridge!