I've got the typical DV1000 issues of working-not working but I also have an additional issue. When it does work, the lamps will not come on when the battery is used. I have to start it up using AC in order for everything to run fine. But if I turn it on using ONLY the battery, everything comes up and the OS loads and can continue working but the LAMPS will not come on at all. It'll be on for hours with the lamps off. Any ideas, any one???
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incredible, is car running or not? EG: key on only. EG key on end running. Gee! pretend the helper is blind, we are.. there are 2 kinds CLUSTER of lights 1: WARNING LAMPS. (all com on keyon as test) 2: AND PARKING LAMPS. that can be dimmed.... 3: and gauges they too use CLuster power so....
which ones.?????????? name all lamps and bad. does engine run?????????? do head lamps work and not be dim?
we need all lamps that work and not. both. your car electronic tech, would see all this in 5 minutes work , I say let them'! not me im retired. A primary test, for power.... (works key off too) if head lights are dim or fail?, or act odd that is a dead/week battery (or just discharged)
or just ignoring the terminal lug cleaning service steps. (that is a top failure, "A1" failure.
also modern cars with lots of computers! they all go very crazy, with low battery voltage. use a thing called a voltmeter to check system volteges. battery is 12.6vdc rested. even the $10 walfart, meter works. here. prefect.
Had a similar problem with my 97 power stroke. somehow the plug in the wiring harness below the bed at the rear of the truck vibrated loose I had all lights but brake lights. Or it may be a ground wire issue. Good luck. Let us know how it works out.
Hi Tony, obviously there is a problem in your light circuit. For your lights to keep burning out you have either to much voltage/amperage getting to them or a loose or broken ground in that front light circuit. I would first do a charging system test at the battery, voltage at 3000 RPM'S should be 14.3 to 14.7 volts anything higher replace the voltage regulator and make sure it has a tight clean ground. Other than that you will have to check all your wiring and connections from the ignition switch to the passing lamp switch and the high/low beam switch for worn or chaffed wires and corroded, broken or loose pins. To aid you in this perilous journey please visit the website below for a free wiring diagram and good luck Harley Davidson Wiring Diagrams and Schematics
You are correct about lamps working or not, but that is the extremes. Over the course of operation all lamps lose brightness as the hours add up. All lamps will lose their brightness over time.
Typically lamps only last at best 6000 to 8000 hours. That is not long if the unit is used most of the day everyday. In addition the cheaper the quality of the lamp, cost and manufacture, the quicker they go down hill.
Assuming that you have a low quality lamp what you are experiencing is normal. You may be able to improve the brightness and clarity of the picture by cleaning the lenses, mirrors and screen. I have a tip at
When you say tail lights, is this the parking lamps or the stop lamps ?
If it is the parking lamps: Do the front ones work ? Do you have power at the 4 pin trailer tow adapter for the parkign lamps ? - If not could be the fuse for the parking lamps, engine compartment Fuse panel, Fuse # 6.
If this is the stop lamps, try raising the tilt all the way on the steerign wheel, and see if they work again ( this is if the truck bed ones do not work and the CHMSL / 3rd brake lamp does work ). - Some times the connector can be pulled apart, causing issues with the brake lamps on the truck.
You may have another Alternator issue so get the charge rate checked. Then, look for a leakage issue like the glove box lamp staying on, or the lamp in the trunk or boot staying on. I have even seen the lamps in the footwells stay on and drain a battery overnight.
An easy test is to use a test lamp. Make sure all the doors are closed and everything is turned off (tail lamps etc). Disconnect the battery negative and connect the test lamp between the battery post and the cable clamp. If the lamp lights and stays lit, you have a leakage. Begin by disconnecting the courtesy lamps or removing the bulbs. When the test lamp goes out, theres ya leakage. If you have a charging system connected to the vehicle which charges a second battery, like one in a caravan, check those circuits too..
And even though the Alternator is new, it may still be the cause of the problem.. So check it out as well..