Completely crashed after approx 18 months. appears to be no power
I have taken the cover off, hoping to find a fuse blown, but that is OK. On the board where the powercable attaches, there is a faint but high pitched ticking sound from what appears to be a coil, surrounded by yellow plastic wrap (Approx 3cm high x3cm x2cm) in the center of the board. The cooling fan (at the oposite side of the unit) is 'twitching' in-time with the ticking. I can deal with basic electronics but beyond that, I am lost. Is there anything I can do or should I contact Thompson (if I can find there number)
Thanks, in advance, for your advice.
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Re: Completely crashed after approx 18 months. appears to...
Well you gave me a explanation of the part now how about a photo from the cellphone or anytype of pitchure taken device. if it has stuff all over it it is good reason they dont want anyone to know what it is becuase they would be ran out of bussiness , just buy a new one.
18 months may of been good for that computer equipment or device .
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The fuses are identified on a card attached to the inside of the fuse panel cover. A spring clamp holds the cover in place. The fuses are available wherever German Auto Parts are available. Volkswagen - after market fuses seem the most plentiful. They are color coded .. replace same for same. For example on a 84 300SD fuse 18 controls the Power Windows LF & RR & is a 16 AMP. Fuse 5 is a 25 AMP for the seats. A fuse burns out because their is a problem .. for example .. a slight rear end crash could short at tail light socket & crush the bulb .. Fuse 1 an 8 AMP fuse would blow .. this would also cause you to lose your taillights . warning system & Instrument illumination , as they all share the same circuit. a blown fuse .. melts.
Either power supply problem or blown surface mount fuse on the main board. First check all SMD fuses on the main board, and the fuse on the power supply board. If the power supply board fuse has blown replace it and try again, if it blows again you need to replace the power supply. If the power supply seems OK check all SMD fuses on the main board. There are 7 on the V3 and about a dozen on the V4 / V5 / V6. NOTE.... you have to open the console to do this ...
If there is no power at all then it could be the internal power fuse has blown, there could also be other parts faulty also. I would not recommend you to check this if you are not electricallly qualified as a microwave is a very dangerous piece of equipment to tamper with, even if there is no power to it. It would be best to call a service engineer to check it over for you.
I had the same problem and this is how I fixed it... It is hard to get the cover off (and it's not the top cover, but the one on the right side as facing), but once you do follow the directions below.
- Turn off power and unplug from power source. - Open right side of printer (looking at the front). - Disconnect by pulling gently, both white flat ribbon cables off the main circuit board. - Plug in power source and turn printer on. Wait till you get a error message and push "Ok". - Unplug power source. - Reconnect the flat ribbon cables by aligning and carefully pushing into the conectors on the main circuit board. - Plug in power source and turn printer on (Printer preparing occurred).
You may have a blown internal fuse. While I would recommend that you take the unit to a qualified repair center, you can do a little troubleshooting on your own. You''ll need to unplug the unit, remove the outside cover and follow the line cord and you should find the fuse.
Replace it with the EXACT same value that was labeled on the original fuse. You'll probably be able to find a replacement fuse at any Radio Shack store or hardware store.
Replace the cover and plug the unit back in. Hopefully nothing was damaged and the unit will play again.
If the unit does not come back on, then there is a possibility that the unit's power supply has failed.
Please let me know if I can be of further assistance to you.
The fuse(s) can be found in the power supply assembly. Check for the letter F follow by a number to locate the fuse.
I service power supplies for LCDs, TVs, Plasmas and many other applications.
Let me know if you further assistance. My email is email@example.com
I have (had) a 2006 CR-V with the same problem. The identified fuse for the outlet (#18) was not blown. However, there is a fuse identified as "+BR ACC" (fuse #15) that was blown. Both are 15AMP fuses located in the fuse box under the steering column. Replaced the #15 fuse and the outlet is working just fine.