Question about Kenmore Elite 45986 Front Load Washer

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Kenmore Elite 10.4708 front load washer won't start with new load

I was able to power up the machine and select a wash cycle, but when pressing (and holding) the "Start" button, it never started up, but went directly to "Clothes Clean" mode. This occured for all wash cycles. I tried unplugging the cord to reset the computer, but when I plugged it back in, the machine wouldn't even power up. I only hear beeps when pressing the power button.

Thinking that the door switch may not be making contact, I tried pressing in the latch with a small screwdriver (with the door open) and the lock pin popped up. Now I can't release the lock pin !!

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  • Phoebe112 Feb 13, 2009

    I am soooooooooooo sorry you are having the same problems I have. Isn't it the most frustrating thing? I have our identical story. However, I had a Sears warranty which did me absolutely no good as the repairman never came after 6 weeks of being on "the list". I had ordered a new door latch mechanism in the meantime. I could not get that pin in the door latch ( I did the same thing you did with a screwdriver) to move so wound up installing the new door latch mechanism. I hope you don't have to do that but if you do it is not hard to install at all. My husband did it in about 5 minutes.
    did you know the codes are all in the inside of the bottom panel of your washer? Also, today I accessed the website listed below that takes you to Ask.com and there is an answer on there that tells you how to self test your machine. I did it this evening and for the first time in ages, the machine actually finished a cycle without me having to plug and unplug several times.
    Apparently you can start a cycle, then it will self test and when you are through there should be C08 on the readout. This may cancel the error message you keep getting. Hope this helps and I think we should start a support group for these Kenmore HE4's! Phoebe


  • arjay11 Feb 14, 2009

    Thanks to Phoebe for her response. Now for an update, I was able to correct the door latch by accessing it through the bottom panel. I was aware of paperwork inside the machine, but opted to call Sears for a warranty service call. The technician was there in 3 days, ran the diagnostics and found trouble codes 70 and 71 which indicate the user interface is not communicating with the control module. He wiggled some connecters and cycled the machine. My wife did two laundry loads this week and the machine quit again and shows the same trouble codes. The next step is to replace either the interface or the control module (or both ?). The price of the parts exceed the total cost of my last washing machine ! I have left a message with Sears........

  • arjay11 Feb 14, 2009

    Hope I didn't jinx you by telling you my machine quit again !

    Regarding the "black latch thingy", I think that is for when the door is locked in the closed position, as it didn't do anything for me. I had to unfasten the lock and lower it to where I could manually unlatch it.

    As for Sears, I have a great salesman (from whom I bought appliances for my last 4 homes), and he is batting for me.

    Thanks for the tips on the K2 and K4 relays. I will ask the technician about them if he shows up again.

  • arjay11 Feb 15, 2009

    Thanks again for some good info.

    The Sears technician is scheduled to come back on Tuesday. We'll see what happens.

    Our washer has been lightly used for less than 6 months, so we're frustrated to be having problems so soon. If my relay contacts are burned already, I'm sure the "fix" will be temporary at best.

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Uh oh! It did it again! This time I had to unplug 6 times for one cycle. Seems to be on the last 2 minutes most of the time. Today my husband is taking the control unit and looking for soldering problems. On Askmehelpdesk.com this man told of taking the bottom panel off and there is a little black latch thingy you pull to open the door lock manually. Also he said that the K2 and K4 relays are usually the problem if it isn't a soldering issue on the connectors. ( On the CCU);. He said one of them is usually burned and to clean it off and then switch it with the other one which carries less voltage, therefore doesn't burn. You can use a pencil eraser to do this. My husband told me they did this in the Army for MOose code contacts. He just told lme the soldeirng looks good on the connectors and is now working on the K2 and K4 relays. If you go to Askmehelpdesk.com/appliances you will see these tips are for the Whirlpool Duet whic is apparently the same machine as our Sears Kenmore H4's. Gosh, I hope this helps someone as it sure is not fun trying to track this problem down. I am glad you got Sears to come out. I will NEVER and I repeat NEVER buy from Sears again! Did I mention I wrote a letter months ago when I was having a hard time getting warranty work done.( Which I never did) that I had written to the pPesident, CFO and the Texas Attorney General for Consulmer Protection Division and never got a response from anyone?

Posted on Feb 14, 2009

  • Phoebe112 Feb 14, 2009

    This is for ARJAY11. You didn't jinx me. I am a litle hopeful this afternoon as my husband has taken those relays out and( I stand corrected; they are K4 and K1 not K2) and worked them over . Sure 'nough, one of them was burned just like the guy on askme.com said it would be. Hubby cleaned it and switched them ( I am going to order two more when I get my wits about me) and re-soldered them. You have to have a fine tip soldering gun as you night burn the control board otherwise. Fortunately, he is pretty good at these things and has several soldering guns to choose from.
    We plugged her in and ran a load with no problem. It is on the second load and I intend to wash everything in sight to see if this solution is the ONE! I sure hope this helps some of you out there. I just cannot undersand for the life of me how Sears and Whirlpool won't recall these washers and just replace these relays. They seemt to be good for about a year or two then burn. I bet those repairmen don't even know HOW to replace and solder these things. Better to replace the whole unit and make more $. Seems like it would be awfully good business on their part to fix these faulty parts as most of you out there I suspect won't ever buy a Whirlpool or Sears washer again. Same here.


  • Phoebe112 Feb 15, 2009

    Six MONTHS! Good grief; that shouldn't happen. At least you are still under warranty and live in a place where they actually have techs who should be able to work on this machine. But really, this sounds like an ongoing problem they have with these machines. Nobody should spend tht kind of money on a washer that has iflaws. I just hope they can fix it permanently for you. I have done 4 loads so far witht he relays cleaned off and so far so good. A great Valentine's present for me! Keep us posted on what the tech does to your machine and if that fixes the problem. Maybe your predicament will help the rest of us, at least! Phoebe

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